I own a 05 Nightrain with 62000 miles on it. My mechanic put a 95" big bore kit in it less than 20,000 miles ago. Got great results out of the upper end rebuild and my mechanic said the lower didn't need to be rebuilt. Well, my lower grenaded on me and my oil filter is full of metal. Mechanic said it is most likely my flywheel and it is fairly common with that year. Of course, his wife (office manager) is not very helpful because I want to do the work myself. They are wanting $4000 to fix it and that is an estimate-they won't give me an actual quote.
I guess I am looking for ideas/prices/kits that would work or that I will need to rebuild my lower end so I don't have to trash the top end. The top end was bored out and 95" S&S pistons were installed.
I have been all over the web and am swimming with information but need some clear direction and what would be best. I am also looking at installing a Timken conversion but not sure what I need there either.
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mike
wow, you should gain a lot of respect around here with an attitude like that.
what else can we do for you, maybe serve you a drink and offer you a foot massage?:loco
Crank/rods are not rebuildable, nor worth it really, IMHO. You can look at S&S flywheels/rods, unless you find another 88 crank and rods to replace it, but have it reworked, welded/indexed and a Timken bearing conversion which you mentioned.
Kirby (Prodrag1320) and Scott (Hillsidecycleco) are two people here that can help you, as they do this for a living.
Thanks for the reply Dave63. I was planning on replacing the crank/rods and as you mentioned, I would like an S&S. What would you recommend? I saw S&S has a kit. Once again, thanks for the input.
I was told I can put a stroker 103 flywheel in and not have to change the top end. Is that true or does that sound off? Gonna crack it open the end of the month to see what kind of a mess I have.
Yeah, the bore is the same size between 95" and 103" (3.875"), only thing different is the stroke, going from 4.00" on the 95" increasing to 4.375" on the 103".
I sure would be tempted to put the 4.625" crank out of the 120" kit in there tho.
.............our you can install a 4 1/2" S&S crank, with a 3.875"(95") bore, and have yourself a 106"er.
Combined with a good cam, and the proper cylinder heads,
110 hp, and 120 ft/lbs should be within reach.
Scott
I'd be taking Scott's advice, His shop does this for a living and he's built enough motors and provided countless recommendations to people on this site, as well as many other forums I see him on.
Thanks for the kind words Dave!:thumbsup
If your leaning in the direction of what I am suggesting, then a cam as simple as an Andrews 37,(@ 10.0 cr) or a Bob Wood 6,(@ 10.3 cr) along with a head that flow around 160-165 cfm @ 10".
Torque Monster Motor Works, Port Huron, Michigan,(was Gilbert's Harley-Davidson) recently tuned one our 107" to 113 hp, 118 ft/lbs,
using an Andrews 37.
120/120, and more, can be had with more cam/compression/head.
Scott
Scott, the info is greatly appreciated! This is probably going to be a winter build for me so I can scrape up the money to do it right.
Rockerbox1.....you are correct, my earlier comment was no bueno. I was extremely frustrated with the fact that my only bike just blew up on me, my mechanic is saying it's going to cost me $4000, I just got married so the bank is dry, and the weather was still in the 90's. With that said, my appologies to anyone I may have offended.
Mike,
Make lemonade from the lemons.:thumbsup
Any questions, feel free to contact us, and I'll GUARANTEE you, that we'll take you down the right path.:nod
Scott
ummm dumb question???? but how do you know your lower is gone????? cam chain failure is more prone with those years and that would leave a lot of metal in you oil filter... Did you actually see what went wrong? did they already pull the wheels?? did they do a run out check? something doesnt seem right
Serviceguy-My mechanic (who I trust completely) says the color of the metal shavings (brass) leads him to believe that part of the problem is the bearings on either side of the flywheel. You are correct in saying that I have no idea what exactly is wrong with it and I won't until I crack it open.
Part of getting on here was trying to figure out what parts I'm going to need to make a dependable engine with more power than before (I was around 91hp and 94ft/lbs). I didn't want to put stock parts back in only to have it happen again in another 60,000 miles. I plan on doing this my self and appreciate any and all of the input. Currently, the timpken conversion is the only part that worries me.
I will start taking things apart at the end of the month.
the timken bearing really isnt a big deal, and prolly would just be worth taking to a local dealer and having them just press in the nea bearing.
i wasnt giving you crap it was just make sure you trust who was working on it, the rods also have brass at the pin for the piston so you might not need to go all the way down. i would recc. doing a hydro up grade to the cam shoes while there, gear drive is ok but there cant be almost any run out on the flywheels.
Well, I have finally scratched some green together to start work on my bike. I will begin the tear down process after the holidays. I appreciate all of the suggestions that I have gotten. It took me a bit of effort but I finally found someone who can do the timken conversion for me so I don't have to buy the $800 tool to do it myself. He will also weld and balance the flywheel for me. I will try and add some pics as I go through the build.
Dave63-you were right! Getting married doesn't "re-plenish" the bank, ecspecially when the wife is starting a new business.
Hillsidecycleco-Thanks for your most appreciated input.
I started tearing it down today. Got the air intake and exhaust off fairly quickly to be abruptly slowed by the large torx nut holding the rear of the tank down. Of course I don't have one that big.
Alright, I wasn't able to work on the bike today but sat down and looked at the next steps in engine removal out of the tech manual I bought. It is telling me to remove the rear fender, or at least it seams like that is what is saying.
Is this necessary and if so, could someone tell me why? Thanks!
Mike
No need to pull the sheet meatal on that, to extract the engine.
Top motor mount, lower mounts, remove engine spocket/chain, etc., disconnect electrical connections, and she's ready to come out.
Scott
You can try cleaning the threads with wire brushes but if the oring seat area is corroded the orings will likely leak . Might have to replace the tank .
I had a friend come over and help me get the engine out. That was a #$%^*%^$! I'm sure I did it the hard way but I got it done and didn't destroy anything. Mission accomplished!
So, after much thought, I decided to not spend the money buying all of the special tools I would have needed to do this job myself. I found a guy in the Tahoe area (California Fritz) who will take care of my engine for me at a price I couldn't say no to. I am confident I will have a strong and reliable motor when he is done with it. I wanted my bike running before spring and that wouldn't have happend if I had to wait for the money to do this myself. As it is, I have saved a good chunk of money pulling the motor myself. I should have the engine back next month.
He is going to clean up the heads, put in some oversized valves, weld and balance the flywheel and change the cams to a cam gear drive. He is not entirely convinced my problem is the left side bearing of the flywheel. He things the more likely culprit is the balancing chain. I am just happy I am finally making some progress on getting my bike back on the road.
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