I have a touring and the back lever on the trany. Is there any easier way to get the lever off. I think the teeth are worn because there's play when I shift and I can see it.
Before trying to remove the shift arm try re-tightening the Allen bolt. Use an Allen socket on a long wobble extension and crank the snot out of the bolt. That usually does the trick.
I've looked at some that the splines were really stripped on . Remove the allen head bolt, run a tap through the shifter , replace allen head with a grade 8 hex head bolt . You can torque the grade 8 tighter than an allen wrench will stand .
There is also an after market shifter arm , it is two pieces so you don't have to pull the primary off to install it .
Take the allen head bolt out and replace it with a grade 8 5/16th bolt. A 1/2 inch socket and extension with ratchet,you can crank down on that lever. Check it for tightness every oil change.
FYI, the OEM shift arm Allen bolt is grade 8 and comes with pre-locktighted threads.
Replacing that shift arm requires removing the outer primary, the drive train and the inner primary. That's a good argument for trying to re-tighten the bolt or replacing it with a new one.
FYI, the OEM shift arm Allen bolt is grade 8 and comes with pre-locktighted threads.
Replacing that shift arm requires removing the outer primary, the drive train and the inner primary. That's a good argument for trying to re-tighten the bolt or replacing it with a new one.
The guys who sell a 225 dollar shift lever want you to think that removing the primary covers is brain surgery...it isn`t.
It`s just nuts and bolts.
You may be able to avoid removing the covers by using a two piece shift lever, but sooner or later you are going in there anyway, to fix a leak, replace an inner primary bearing, or replace a belt...
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