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  • · Registered
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    187 Posts
    Hey,
    Hope all is well. I posted the following today and over 30 people read it but no replies. Do you have ideas about this? Thanks.

    Top Caddy Removal
    I can't figure it out. Have in the past when replacing the battery but can't figure it out now. Search hasn't helped me. Shop manual just says to remove the bolts at the rear and get it free from the, " front hold-down" but no clue how. I see a metal tab of some sort at the front side of the caddy but can't get the caddy clear of it. I pull and press that metal tab and the caddy every which way but not getting free of it. Help please.

    Thanks.

    · Registered
    2006 Road King 2010 '48'
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    158 Posts

    · Registered
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    45 Posts
    Now that i’ve outed my wrenching inexperience, I would sincerely appreciate your input towards at least getting me to the point of busting her off for the first time in ages. I didn’t want to continue too far in the thread posts for fear of clogging it up with too many questions & running the risk of alienating good folks who know WAY more than I do.

    I’m in no rush with this project. I’m retired now(62) & finding more now that needs getting done than when I worked : ) I have an original hard-copy service manual packed away in another property 80 miles away, so I downloaded another copy of it. It seems to be lacking in the most basic of maintenance items, so I think I need to acquire an owner’s manual for this particular model. Do you have any suggestions as to where this may be sourced?

    I’m Jeff Cowart @ jeffcowart55@gmail.com. Cell is 850.206.9629. Thanks for any help,

    · Registered
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    45 Posts
    Apparently there is a character count for private messages. I will sent the balance of my message in another.

    · Registered
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    45 Posts
    Thanks for identifying yourself in my thread. I would appreciate any guidance offered in helping me get this bike back amongst the living. Please review the initial post & you can sorta see where I stand. It seems everyone has their preference regarding crankcase oil, transmission fluid & apparently primary lube, as well. I purchased a new battery, 20w50 oil, HD trans/primary fluid, brake pads (F/R) & a new oil filter at my local HD franchise. A bike shop owner recommended the Lucas 75w90 for the transmission which I acquired. I have new spark plugs, plug wires & a fuel filter to install.

    All that said, i can’t even seem to identify the tranny drain plug or where the primary drain is located. I drained the oil reservoir & cleaned it out with some kerosene. I understand the crankcase holds minimal oil when not running so I didn’t even attempt to drain further. I’ve loaded no new fluids at this point.

    · Registered
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    229 Posts
    I don't know of any database like the Harley dealers have. My business is listed in the WI small business name database as are all small businesses in this state. Some of the cycle mags used to have Indies advertising. But who buys mags anymore ? Did ya try Google ?
    I'm in Menomonee Falls, what is you business name ? Is in in Port ?
    Thanks.

    · Registered
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    277 Posts
    AE = Dunlop American Elite.....made specifically by Dunlop for heavier HD models. It's Dunlops version of the tires they make that are stock on many HD's BUT without the HD logo crest on the sidewall. After talking to a Dunlop rep I learned that the AE are a better choice than simply putting another set of stock Dunlops on my ride.

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    Where are you located? Have a problem with a 2014 Road King and the dealer keeps telling me they can find nothing wrong? At the end of extended warranty so I'm going to have to go it on my own. Best I can describe is under low load I get this Clunking? when decal or accel quickly. I would compare it to bad u joints in a car. seems like taking up slack. Under load, no problems but light load or coasting then hit the throttle you get the noise/ feel of the clunk.

    My email address is piraino111@gmail.com

    Thanks for any help/ advise you can give me. I live in IL so a visit to your shop might not be out of the question.

    · Retired citizen
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    28,836 Posts
    Did you get my reply about the fork lock pin adjuster below the lower triple clamp ?
    If you can't get the fork unlocked give the handlebars a good stiff jam to the left to get the lock pin freed up.

    · Retired citizen
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    28,836 Posts
    I've removed many ignition / fork lock assemblies, the trick is to keep the inner tumblers aligned. When you remove the knob assy. don't disturb the inner tumblers or you're going to have problems. The ignition has to be in the on position to remove the lock so unplug the maxi-fuse so the lights etc. aren't on while working on the bike.
    The concern here is that the ignition lock isn't the fork lock, the ignition lock knob merely actuates the fork locking pin. The locking pin is part of the electrical switch.
    Also there's a lock button under the switch knob that has to be depressed in order to remove the knob assembly.
    The MoCo made it difficult to remove the lock assembly, it's part of the H-D security system.

    · Member
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    10,222 Posts
    Have you ever had to remove/replace the entire ignition? If I order one it takes a couple of weeks to get it and I would like to put it in myself. Gonna look at my service manual and go to Ronnie's to see a blow up of the parts.

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    10,222 Posts
    Schmidty...wonder if you've heard anything about the problem I'm having...

    I have a 2015 Ultra Classic, 20,500 miles. In Roswell, NM I came out of a restaurant and the ignition switch wouldn't turn from the locked position! The fork wasn't binding it, I fiddled with it and finally the ignition switch turned, but nothing happened...no power...no nothing. Had it towed to the dealer in Roswell. The mechanic pulled out the ignition rod and triangle head, sprayed some silicone spray in the whole, aligned the rod and got it working. Told me not to lock it on the way back to Austin, TX. When I got it home I turned it to lock and it jammed again. After some patient wiggling I got it to work. Any ideas of whether I can fix this darn thing or should I go to Harley and get a new ignition. They have to key it at the factory and it takes like 2 weeks to get a new one. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Schmidty!

    · Member
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    10,222 Posts
    Hey Schmidty...I saw you recommended Auto Transmission Fluid in the Harley Big Twin Cam Primary and was wondering what brand you use. I can see the reason to use it as Harley TCs use a wet clutch. Would appreciate you letting me know what Brand you use. Also, what viscosity it has.

    Thanks!!

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    11 Posts
    I Have an 06 heritage efi when I first crank it up it idles fine,but after engine gets hot idle gets higher. What might that b? Thnx

    · Registered
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    48 Posts
    Hey Schmidty, can you send me a pic or 2, I sent this meeage earlier but I don't know if it went thru. Can you see it on the exploded view of panhead online?

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    HI there, my only other question about the Heritage is that the Pipes are pretty much black from what I could only assume is getting really hot. they look like V. Hines that go all the way back and cut off evenly at the rear of the bike on the one side, do you think that is a result of abuse, racing the motor and simply getting it to hot, or is this something that could have happened over a long period of time from a lot of start and go in a city the size of Green Bay. they look like they have been on there a while, clean yes, but still a black tint to them now? and from the last couple of bikes I owned before I got locked down were all 74" and you could tell getting really hot as they had just what you could tell was that hot metal burn look to them. This is a clean black just around where it makes the turn to the back all the way down from the head.

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    1 Posts
    Yo Schmidtys, a HD stealership found a semi melted cam sensor and said that was my problem, so I replaced it. Same problem exists. How can I check crank sensor? How much trouble to check it and how much dough to replace it?

    It's a 1999 Softtail Custom evo, Crane cam, Micuni carb, about 35K miles since engine build. Thanks.

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    122 Posts
    Hello Schmidtys, i am installing a set of HD passing lamps and i saw your sticky about wiring them to the o/w wire so i can have a constant power. Here is what i have found apparently i am overlooking something. I tested the Y wire coming out of terminal 6 on the plug and determined which wire on the headlamp plug is the correct one. but if i cut it i do not have power to the headlamp on either hi or low didnt check to see which one. Also i am just testing with a test light. am i missing something OR by splicing into the o/w wire does that keep my headlamp on all the time once i plug it back up? OR is there another connector that i need to be looking for instead of the headlamp plug. it only has two terminals that plug onto the light. one side has a yellow wire and the other has a yellow and a black wire in the same terminal. any clarification would be greatly appreciated.. thank You Richard

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    94 Posts
    Wow. You seem to be the go-to guy for technical advice on here. so, here's my deal:
    I replaced bars, levers, switches and housings on my 2011 FLHTP. In that process, I removed the ignition switch and its housing ( not the wiring, just the knob and weird nuts underneath). I used a screwdriver to unlock the fork. Anyway, its all back together and dead. Someone said my ecu suspected theft and shut down everything and may need a re-flash. Any ideas?

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    15 Posts
    schmidtys.........Is a historic code something to worry about on a road king classic ? thanks for your comments on my engine light. I know nothing about these things.. xskyguy
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