Edit: If anyone sees anything wrong in my info or can clarify anything better than I did please let me know so I can fix it.
Hey guys thanks to blowing up my clutch on my 05 Roadster at only 30k miles I felt that it would be good for me to post some things I learned that you should know about your 04 up and, if worst comes to worst how to remedy the problem.
Before I start I must attribute much of this information to the interwebs, and other members of the forum most notably Dave63 and Kainam. I did not come to all of this knowledge on my own but I really want to see it all in one place.
Wet clutches in general are pretty well known to be "indestructable" and to "last the lifetime of a bike" IF (big if) maintained properly and not abused. The Sportster is no different except for one issue. Harley decided to add whats called a spring plate into center of the clutch pack. (Pictured is my destroyed one.
It is essentially two drive plates riveted together and it is supposed to help broaden the friction zone and make the bike a little smoother when letting out the clutch (or so the internet tells me).
Regardless of its exact function it is known to be a weak spot ESPECIALLY on bikes that are ridden spiritedly. As you saw above (and below) the BRASS rivets are too weak and break off leaving you with something like....keep in mind those should be a few mm apart not half an inch!
What years are affected????
Well some internet resources say that they made a stronger version in 2007 but based on what comes up in a google search i am not so sure.
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...UTF-8#q=harley sportster spring plate failure'
That is a lot of people talking about it!!!
What should you do?
If your bike has less than 20k and is not abused...nothing. If you are reaching that point or more miles though here is a BIG indicator of the failure (from my experience) for months my clutch would grip right off the bars and could not be changed with adjustment. It was rideable and at the time I thought I was crazy but I wasn't..it was breaking slowly but surely for about 3k miles I feel like.
If you are feeling this you can take your chances but I would recommend one of two things.
1. Buy two stock steel (drive) plates and one friction plate and eliminate the Spring Plate. This will leave you with a very stock like feel and a good reliable strong clutch for years to come.
2. Buy an upgraded clutch kit with kevlar or carblon fiber plates that comes with "extra plates" and is used without the Spring plate
Example of one I bought Amazon.com: Barnett Extra Plate Clutch Kit - Carbon Fiber 307-30-20011: Automotive
While you are in there you can also buy an upgraded diaphram spring for the clutch. What this does is increases the clamping force on the clutch. Note: this will make your clutch pull harder...keep that in mind when deciding to stay stock or not. The advantages of this is that your clutch can handle more power if it is clamped together tighter. If you never plan to modify your bike for more power it is probably a waste of money for most realistically. I went with one that is 15% stronger than stock FWIW.
"Alright XL1200,,,,for the love of God just show us how to rip the damn thing apart!!"
Ok...geeze..calm down...
Here is a thread by yours truly on how to get the primary cover off and get to the clutch which is 9/10ths of the work IMO.
http://www.harley-davidsonforums.co...-remove-primary-cover-off-your-sportster.html
and here's the clutch disassembly.
1. You need to buy a special tool to do this. Otherwise you may (probably will to be honest) damage the diaphram spring in the clutch.
Here is the style tool that I used...(big thanks to my buddy Dave (not Dave63) who let me borrow the tool from him to do this.)
Amazon.com: Motion Pro Clutch Spring Compressor 08-0137: Automotive
2. In the picture you see the whole tool that I am holding in my hand and the threaded rod with a long nut on it basically. What you want to do is thread that rod (done in the picture already) onto the clutch adjuster. Use a long thin flat blade screwdriver to hold the adjuster screw as you turn the threaded rod over it.
3. Then, screw the tool onto the threaded rod like so and use a 9/16ths box wrench to hold the nut on the threaded rod.
4. Start turning clockwise on the handle (in my hand) while holding the box wrench to compress the spring. Don't go too far with turning the tool...you should go one full turn MAX on the tool to remove the c-clip that holds the clutch diaphram spring on. Turning it anymore can deform the spring and require a new one.
Note: the clip is a bit hard to get out. There is a "seat" to the clip that has shoulders on it that block the clip from coming out easily. You have to carefully pry a bit using a screwdriver, and some snap ring pliers and you will eventually get it out. Take your time and make sure the seat is moved out of the way before you squeeze on the snap ring pliers or the c-clip won't go anywhere. At first it looks like it can't even come out but it can.
Now the clutch plates are exposed and the rest is simple. Pull out all of the plates using your hands and eventually you will need small pliers or a screwdriver. Once they are all out you can replace or do whatever your doin' in there...sightseeing,,,I don't know none of my business!
Dazz it! Hope it helps I know it isn't the most in depth tutorial in the world but honestly it isn't too hard so I don't think it needs to be! Ride on!
Hey guys thanks to blowing up my clutch on my 05 Roadster at only 30k miles I felt that it would be good for me to post some things I learned that you should know about your 04 up and, if worst comes to worst how to remedy the problem.
Before I start I must attribute much of this information to the interwebs, and other members of the forum most notably Dave63 and Kainam. I did not come to all of this knowledge on my own but I really want to see it all in one place.
Wet clutches in general are pretty well known to be "indestructable" and to "last the lifetime of a bike" IF (big if) maintained properly and not abused. The Sportster is no different except for one issue. Harley decided to add whats called a spring plate into center of the clutch pack. (Pictured is my destroyed one.
It is essentially two drive plates riveted together and it is supposed to help broaden the friction zone and make the bike a little smoother when letting out the clutch (or so the internet tells me).
Regardless of its exact function it is known to be a weak spot ESPECIALLY on bikes that are ridden spiritedly. As you saw above (and below) the BRASS rivets are too weak and break off leaving you with something like....keep in mind those should be a few mm apart not half an inch!
What years are affected????
Well some internet resources say that they made a stronger version in 2007 but based on what comes up in a google search i am not so sure.
https://www.google.com/webhp?source...UTF-8#q=harley sportster spring plate failure'
That is a lot of people talking about it!!!
What should you do?
If your bike has less than 20k and is not abused...nothing. If you are reaching that point or more miles though here is a BIG indicator of the failure (from my experience) for months my clutch would grip right off the bars and could not be changed with adjustment. It was rideable and at the time I thought I was crazy but I wasn't..it was breaking slowly but surely for about 3k miles I feel like.
If you are feeling this you can take your chances but I would recommend one of two things.
1. Buy two stock steel (drive) plates and one friction plate and eliminate the Spring Plate. This will leave you with a very stock like feel and a good reliable strong clutch for years to come.
2. Buy an upgraded clutch kit with kevlar or carblon fiber plates that comes with "extra plates" and is used without the Spring plate
Example of one I bought Amazon.com: Barnett Extra Plate Clutch Kit - Carbon Fiber 307-30-20011: Automotive
While you are in there you can also buy an upgraded diaphram spring for the clutch. What this does is increases the clamping force on the clutch. Note: this will make your clutch pull harder...keep that in mind when deciding to stay stock or not. The advantages of this is that your clutch can handle more power if it is clamped together tighter. If you never plan to modify your bike for more power it is probably a waste of money for most realistically. I went with one that is 15% stronger than stock FWIW.
"Alright XL1200,,,,for the love of God just show us how to rip the damn thing apart!!"
Ok...geeze..calm down...
Here is a thread by yours truly on how to get the primary cover off and get to the clutch which is 9/10ths of the work IMO.
http://www.harley-davidsonforums.co...-remove-primary-cover-off-your-sportster.html
and here's the clutch disassembly.
1. You need to buy a special tool to do this. Otherwise you may (probably will to be honest) damage the diaphram spring in the clutch.
Here is the style tool that I used...(big thanks to my buddy Dave (not Dave63) who let me borrow the tool from him to do this.)
Amazon.com: Motion Pro Clutch Spring Compressor 08-0137: Automotive
2. In the picture you see the whole tool that I am holding in my hand and the threaded rod with a long nut on it basically. What you want to do is thread that rod (done in the picture already) onto the clutch adjuster. Use a long thin flat blade screwdriver to hold the adjuster screw as you turn the threaded rod over it.
3. Then, screw the tool onto the threaded rod like so and use a 9/16ths box wrench to hold the nut on the threaded rod.
4. Start turning clockwise on the handle (in my hand) while holding the box wrench to compress the spring. Don't go too far with turning the tool...you should go one full turn MAX on the tool to remove the c-clip that holds the clutch diaphram spring on. Turning it anymore can deform the spring and require a new one.
Note: the clip is a bit hard to get out. There is a "seat" to the clip that has shoulders on it that block the clip from coming out easily. You have to carefully pry a bit using a screwdriver, and some snap ring pliers and you will eventually get it out. Take your time and make sure the seat is moved out of the way before you squeeze on the snap ring pliers or the c-clip won't go anywhere. At first it looks like it can't even come out but it can.
Now the clutch plates are exposed and the rest is simple. Pull out all of the plates using your hands and eventually you will need small pliers or a screwdriver. Once they are all out you can replace or do whatever your doin' in there...sightseeing,,,I don't know none of my business!
Dazz it! Hope it helps I know it isn't the most in depth tutorial in the world but honestly it isn't too hard so I don't think it needs to be! Ride on!