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Should I Replace my Clutch Pack?

30K views 307 replies 18 participants last post by  Mark Nigro 
#1 ·
I have an '01 Sporty, 1200C and just replaced the clutch adjustment (pressure) spring as it had broken in half. I'm at just under 30,000 miles. When buying the spring, one of the HD reps in the parts department recommended that I also change the clutch pack as a preventative measure because of its faulty design where the rivets come undone and will wreak havoc in the primary. Have you guys heard of this?
 
#3 ·
What kind of trouble would it give so I can recognize it?

I was having some intermittent slippage which is why I adjusted the clutch (and found the broken spring) but so far haven't had it slip. Won't know if the adjustment did the trick until I get out for a longer ride.
 
#7 ·
The Spacer Must go. Get two clutches and a plate to replace it with. When the rivets wear the clutch drags and send the primary chain tension to the top forcing the chain towards the front sprocket this will cause wear on the Crankshaft sprocket as well as the clutch basket teeth also the chain tensioner adjuster. You will be hearing a noisy primary thinking the shifter detent is the cause rubbing the starter ring gear but it is not the cause of the racket. I spent two months trouble shooting this before I found out what it was. I even ripped the transmission out thinking it might be the gears. Replace it ASAP. Especially with 30 K miles Mine had 24 K
 
#8 ·
Alright fellas, sorry to say the problem did not go away. I had three episodes today of the jerking (RPMs rise without ground acceleration and then it catches and jerks forward). I definitely adjusted the clutch well so, I must replace the clutch pack. I'm not particularly experienced in this sort of work and do not feel qualified to rebuild or customize parts, but I am confident that I can remove and replace the clutch pack. What replacement can I get that wont repeat the problem down the road? I heard the Screaming Eagle clutch is an option.
 
#15 ·
#12 ·
Check you bearing play all have slight play but a lot of it will cause it to not ride true making it rub the shifter detent and slight clutch binding Drag and of the primary chain against the basket teeth. Also the starter gear will not be true and grind metal particles when starting the bike. You will notice this when removing the oil drain plug being it is magnetic to catch this and help keep it out of the oil. I made a spring compressor out of 3 inch PVC and a 3 inch plug fitting with the plug. Just notch out enough of the 3 inch PVC to get needle nose in there to remove the retainer clip after you compress the spring. Get a long bolt with washers and a nut drill a whole through the 3 inch plug put washers on the bolt send it through the hub from the back of the basket put the pvc on the spring side then a washer and a nut. tighten the nut until the spring is compressed flip it over remove the clip and decompress remove old clutches and plates and reverse process. afterwards Not hard at all. PS Note the starter ring gear will more than likely have Maring from the starter gear. It is removable and can be flipped over to have the good side out. That's what I did. 2 lb small sledge Hammer and a small metal shaft working my way around it taping until it came off then tap it back on working around the ring until seated fully
 
#13 ·
Here are some pictures of the tool except I used a 3 " to 4 " adapter not nessecary just get the 3" and the threaded plug. This is a Buell 500 basket only difference is the thickness and amount of clutches and plates. cost about $25 Note: the tool can also be used to remove the bearing and re install the bearing as well
 

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#14 ·
I did this a couple of months ago. I just replaced the spring plate. I had about 22k on the bike. I made the tool out is a piece of 3" pvc and a piece of 3/8" steel strap. Be sure that you take all the discs out and be sure that everything is cleaned out.
It was amazingly simple to do.
 
#16 ·
Truly appreciate all your valuable input, guys! I ordered the Barnett and gaskets yesterday. I'm gonna make the DIY tool this coming weekend and when the parts arrive, I'll get to work. Hoping not to find a lot of collateral damage when I open the primary.

I'm surprised that with a known design flaw, HD never did a recall on these and worse yet, continued manufacturing them with those riveted plates for years. In the automobile industry, it would have definitely been recalled. I'd expect and impose even greater vigilance and responsibility in the motorcycle world. Disappointing.
 
#18 ·
If your adjustment did not fix the slip your clutches are all pretty much shot. Just thought you should get a full set and the extra clutch plate kit rather than have it torn down and have to get them later. Again check the basket for excessive wiggle before removing the unit. If the bearing is that bad it will wear the new clutches down again before too long. One last tip. Be sure to carefully inspect the aluminum inner clutch plate hub for digs. Any major digs will affect the clutch plates from sliding and cause friction to the clutches when engaged. It will be evident some wear to it is done if there is aluminum swirl in the oil when you empty it. The dreaded Riveted spacer when worn will have a back and forth motion pretty much like a saw being steel against aluminum the aluminum will wear down.
 
#19 ·
If your adjustment di not fix the slip your clutches are all pretty much shot. Just thought you should get a full set and the extra clutch plate kit rather than have it torn down and have to get them later. Again check the basket for excessive wiggle before removing the unit. If the bearing is that bad it will wear the new clutches down again before too long
The Barnett extra plate clutch kit contains everything needed.

9 friction disks
8 steel disks
 
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#20 ·
Update:

1. DIY compression tool failed at the first attempt. The steel wasn't strong enough and bent. The second attempt, superman couldn't have bent the steel I used. Success.

2. Got the clutch out and surprisingly the center spring plate didn't show much failure, all rivets were in tact. Inside hub looked good. Installed the Barnett and indeed, it was pretty easy.

3. Buttoning it all up is where I ran into a serious problem. I set my torque wrench to 80 lbs (the minimum according to the manual). One of my primary cover bolts pulled out the threads from the crankcase. I heard it snap and when I backed out the bolt, the crankcase threads were attached to the bolt. They look like a small spring. Never seen anything like that before. Couldn't be more grieved. I'm guessing (and hoping) I can get a machinist to rethread that one crankcase seat. Am I wrong on that?
 
#22 ·
Amazing tip!

I wonder if what came out then was actually a Helicoil? That would actually make more sense by the way it looks and the fact that I didn't torque it that much. I would bet the previous owner had some work done and that is what they inserted.

Anyway, I'm so glad to discover that something like this exists. What a relief!
 
#28 ·
Indeed it is a big difference and a stupid mistake I may have made in my inexperience and haste. Feeling a lot like a donkey right now.

I'll take another look at my torque wrench in better light today. Last night was the first time I've used it (or any torque wrench) and it was hard to see clearly. I defintely didn't do any conversions from foot to inch pounds so that is a probable cause if foot pounds are standard on them. By the feel of it, I will admit that I was waiting for the wrench to give and because it didn't, I backed off and didn't push it (or didn't think I did).

Assuming I overtorqued the others, should I back them out and reset them?

One more thing...I really want to test ride the clutch today to verify everything (else) was done right. Haven't done that yet since installation. Will a ride cause other problems now that one of the bolts (the top-right of the primary cover) is not fully threaded/tightly seated?
 
#34 ·
Maxz695, I sent you a PM the other day. Didn't know if you got it.

Guys, I just took it out for a fairly mellow ride. No leakage from the Primary. The Barnett clutch feels great and I'm glad to have the OEM clutch out of there!

But alas, the mystery grabbing/jerking is still with me and only in 1st gear just like it was before. It showed its ugly head within 2 minutes of my test ride today.

It's unpredictable, happens about 1/3 of the time....sometimes less/more. The symptom is like when you pop the clutch only I'm slowly accelerating with the clutch already fully released and RPMs are climbing. Then abruptly RPMs shoot up, then she grabs and jerks/lunges forward. Looks a lot like a new rider trying to start off in 1st and releases the clutch uncoordinatedly, but in this case the bike is already moving. And she never does it in any other gear.

I have no idea what it could be but will make one more adjustment tomorrow for the heck of it.
 
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