Looking at a 1979 Shovelhead

[Axe56]

Also, moving the discussion to its proper spot: '79 Shovelhead

* this is it's proper spot*

[check_valve]

Welcome

[2006xl1200]

Welcome from Iowa!
__________________

[Badinfluence]

If it feels right, do it. If it doesnt move on. Keep it simple and enjoy. Never what to look back and say I wish I woulda.

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by Axe56

Thanks. Also, the 1:1 in the speed? I'm still new at a lot of the tech talk. I know its something to do with gears and ratio, but if someone can explain or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.

My main concern is if it will be able to make about a 4 hour trip rolling at 80 mph. That will be done at most 2-3 times a year.

Other than that I would like to use it for daily commuting, only around 25 miles per day.

Oh, and here is the info that I could obtain, still not sure on the valve adjustments.

Stock Engine and Transmission #'s match, S&S Carb, 60 weight oil, Exhause gaskets are brand new, no oil between block and heads, no blow by (whatever that means, info would be nice), B&D clutch new with new drybelt, stock frame, 2002 spriner front end, 21" wheel, apes.

1:1 is your final gear ratio.

I used to run my shovel to Hagerstown, MD, 80 mph 2 times a year, and Harrington, DE another 2 times a year. Fresh oil and filter, and a once over, and you'll be fine.

BUY A MANUAL. Before you go adjusting anything, you need to find out if your lifters are still hydraulic, or have they been converted to solids. They're adjusted differently. You'll also need the manual for various specs and torque numbers. Eventually...you'll need it to guide you through a repair.

The Exhaust gaskets are new, because Shovels have ONE bolt that holds the pipes on to the head. The gaskets commonly blow out, because the pipes aren't mounted securely, or the motor mounts are loose. Buy sprare gaskets. You'll need them.

"Blow-by" is when a cylinder becomes worn, and excess clearence begins at the piston ring/cylinder wall point. As a piston moves up on compression stroke, if the rings aren't sealing tightly, compression, (air) sneaks past the rings, down into the crankcase. Some is normal, just from the movement of the pistons, alone. Too much, and the internal crankcase pressure has no where to go, exceeds the vent's ability to vent it, and gaskets and seals begin to leak from too much internal pressure.

You have a dry clutch with a belt driven primary.

Do you know ANYTHING about the engine, internally? Does the guy have receipts to show you?

Before buying it....YOU make sure the numbers are matching. VIN for the bike is on the right side steering neck, left side engine block where the cylinders come to a "Y". (The right half won;t be visible, as it's inside the engine) MAKE SURE THEY MATCH THE TITLE.

Frame ID Numbers - 1970-1980

Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.) is located on the
engine crankcase and is the same as the number located on
frame steering head.
Example: 1A 13478 H7
1A = Model Designation
1A = FL-1200 6E = FXEF-80
2A = FLH-1200 7E = FLHS-1200
3A = XLH-1000 9E = SS-250
4A = XLCH-1000 2F = FXS-1200
5A = GE-750 3F = SXT-125
6A = SS-350 Sprint 4F = SS-175
7A = SX-125 6F = SS-125
8A = M65-S 7F = XLCR-1000
7B = ERS 2G = XLT-1000
8B = MSR-100 3G = FLH-80
2C = FX-1200 5G = FLT-80
3C = SX-350 Sprint 6G = FXE-80
5C = MC-65 7G = FXS-80
6C = SR-100 7T = SST-250
1D = LE Sidecar 8F = SST-350
2D = X-90 9F = SX-350
3D = Z-90 9G = FXWG-80
5D = SX-175 1H = FXB-80
6D = SX-250 2H = CLE Sidecar
7D = MX-250 3H = FLH-80 Classsic
9D = FXE-1200 5H = FLHS-80
4E = XLS-1000 6H = FL-80
5E = FXEF-1200 7H = FLH-1200 Police
8H = FLH-1200 Shrine
9H = FLH-80 Police
1K = FLH-80 Shrine


13478 = Sequential Number

H = Decade Code
H = 1970 thru 1979
J = 1980 only

7 = Model Season
0 = 1970
1 = 1971
2 = 1972
3 = 1973
4 = 1974
5 = 1975
6 = 1976
7 = 1977
8 = 1978
9 = 1979
Crankcase Identification Numbers
Numbers located on both left and right crankcase halves.

Big Twin: Left Case - Outside, Lower Front
Right Case - Inside, Gearcase Compartment, behind cam.

[Axe56]

Thank you Dave for all your help and in moving the thread to it's proper spot

Also to those following. Found out it's a 1979 FXS 1200 Lowrider.

Engine has not been touched. At all. So that means it probably still
has hydraulic lifters (which I think I understand) and no valve adjustments. Which will probably need to be done.

Or is adjustments not required since it's still
hydraulic? Also, how does the 1:1 gear ratio affect performance?

[Axe56]

Also. Something to keep in min. I live 4 miles fom the ocean with no garage. If it fits in y porch at least it will be covered, if it won't fit I have a cover. Also I work on the beach, but it could be parked in a garage. I know, it's sounds like such a mean thing to do, but I don't have a choice. Any opinions on how the salt would affect it besides expiditing any rust. Also, I'd be rinsing it off everynight after the engine cools.

[XDixiecratX]

AXE I feel real sorry for you havein to ride that bike all winter in Florida and havein to rince the salt off it.

[Axe56]

Originally Posted by XDixiecratX

AXE I feel real sorry for you havein to ride that bike all winter in Florida and havein to rince the salt off it.

I know, its such torture..

I'll dedicate my ride to work this morning to all those that can't.

[SCHMIDTYS]

Axe56 , FYI top end on a 74ci 4 spd shovel is only about 90 mph ! If you plan on pushing that thing 80 - 90 mph on the freeway I think you'll be breaking things !
I've got an 80ci 4 spd shovel with a few mods and when I get it up in the 80 - 90 mph range it feels and sounds like things are coming apart ... needless to say I don't ride it that fast often !