1985 FLHT CLUTCH issues - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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1985 FLHT CLUTCH issues

Alright where to begin. Started having problems with the clutch not staying tight, 1/8 inch slack. Adjusted the cable several times till there was no more play. Went into the primary casing and adjusted the screw that seemed to give me all my play back.

Where it gets crazy is I am pretty much doing this over and over and over. What I was trying to avoid was ripping the entire clutch system out if not need be.

Does anyone know why I would have to keep re adjusting the adjuster screw. It stays tight, well the nut is tight on the adjuster screw and as far as I can tell the adjuster screw doesnt move.

I feel like the plates aren't decompressing but not sure.

Any insight would be amazing.

I cant afford to take it to a dealership not to mention I much rather learn it all.

I currently have the Service Manual for FLH/FLT/FXR Evolution 1984-1998, which seems to be spot on when I read through it.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 04:58 PM
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Bump older model

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 05:07 PM
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If the cable adjustment doesn't work......

Ronnie's Harley-Davidson's 1985 Harley Davidson FLHTC 1340 ELECTRA GLIDE CLASSIC (DD) | CLUTCH ASSEMBLY Parts List

# 19 has three different steps in height , you should be able to adjust it to the next step by removing the four bolts #1 and rotating the ring to the next set of holes
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Maxz695 View Post
Bump older model
Lol yeah didnt have a spring. But I did just go out there to take a look at the nut. It looks clean but does have some wear on both sides as if its been flipped couple time so might try the replacement.

Thank you
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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If the cable adjustment doesn't work......

# 19 has three different steps in height , you should be able to adjust it to the next step by removing the four bolts #1 and rotating the ring to the next set of holes
Ok this might work I will try this after replacing the nut. I am hoping it is stripped.

Guess the next question is before I do that, should I be able to turn the adjuster screw when nut is tight. My assumption tells me no and sadly I can turn it with minimal force.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-02-2016, 07:47 PM
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I bumped the post because it is a different set up than my 93 Take the advise Candyman1340 gave you look at the diagram on the link pages we sent you. I just redid my clutches with 28K I bought it with 24 K and had Sqealing when I took off strong. I bought both the friction discs and the steel plates. I have no more issues with it. I would recommend doing it soon anyway to save the Basket and inner hub from damage.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 04:54 AM
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Remove the right side cover and inspect the throwout bearing.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Spence View Post
Ok this might work I will try this after replacing the nut. I am hoping it is stripped.

Guess the next question is before I do that, should I be able to turn the adjuster screw when nut is tight. My assumption tells me no and sadly I can turn it with minimal force.
No the screw shouldn't turn after the jam nut is tight.

Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 11:55 AM
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If you can turn the screw either the screw or nut must br stripped. Replace!!!
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:42 AM
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The clutch has failed on my 85 Low Glide several times over the years (I bought it new in '86). In my case, it was the clutch release finger that attaches to the shaft that attaches to the release lever. This is on the other end of the adjuster rods, behind the cover on the right side of the bike. The rod that goes through it is square, so the hole in the finder is square. It will crack from one of the corners when under load. The symptom will be continually having to adjust the cable until the finger finally cracks in half. I have replaced mine a minimum of 4 times over the years, and I think it failed again right at the end of last season.
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