Drive chain adjustment

[Chris Garrett]

I'm a little confused by the instructions in the shop manual.
1. Do I need to loosen the nut on the chain side of the axle?
2. Do I need to loosen the brake anchor nut?
3. What is the torque specs on the rear axle nut and the brake anchor nut?

I've got the Clymer and the service manual and they say conflicting things.

[Chris Garrett]

Don't know if you can tell anything from the picture, but these threaded adjusters seem a little long to me and the axle seems set back a bit far. Is it time for a new chain?

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by Chris Garrett

I'm a little confused by the instructions in the shop manual.
1. Do I need to loosen the nut on the chain side of the axle?
2. Do I need to loosen the brake anchor nut?
3. What is the torque specs on the rear axle nut and the brake anchor nut?

I've got the Clymer and the service manual and they say conflicting things.

1.) You need to loosen the axle nut.

2.) The brake anchor will pivot as the wheel moves back.

3.) The axle nut is usually about 65 ft lbs.

Looking at the picture, your axle is almost all the way back, meaning your chain is stretched and in need of replacement.

[Chris Garrett]

Originally Posted by Dave63

1.) You need to loosen the axle nut.

2.) The brake anchor will pivot as the wheel moves back.

3.) The axle nut is usually about 65 ft lbs.

Looking at the picture, your axle is almost all the way back, meaning your chain is stretched and in need of replacement.

Is that a big job? Don't I need to replace the sprockets too? And what specialty tools would I need?

[Dave63]

No specialty tools. It's easier then you think....

First thing is to make sure that last chain wasn't put on and was left too long. Is it in good shape? Any tight links? Rusty? Look old?

You only need to replace the sprockets if they're worn.

Jack the back up.

Loosen rear wheel and move axle forward to about the 1/3rd mark.

Find the master link.

Hook new chain to old chain.

Pull the new chain through the front sprocket until it comes out.

FIgure out how long the chain needs to be.

Pull it BACK installing the old chain.

Cut new chain to length.

Pull back through on the old chain.

DIsconnect old chain.

Hook up new chain. Make sure the closed end of the master link is pointing the way the chain rotates. (forward)

Adjust/lube/retorque wheel.

Ride.

[Chris Garrett]

Okay, I need to pester you with a bunch of questions. I hope you're a patient man.
1. Do I buy the chain from Harley or elsewhere?
2. Do I need a tool to break/cut chain?
3. How do I know if the forward sprocket is worn?
4. How do I know if the chain that's on there now is just too long? It does look old and has a little rust.
More questions to come.

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by Chris Garrett

Okay, I need to pester you with a bunch of questions. I hope you're a patient man.
1. Do I buy the chain from Harley or elsewhere?
2. Do I need a tool to break/cut chain?
3. How do I know if the forward sprocket is worn?
4. How do I know if the chain that's on there now is just too long? It does look old and has a little rust.
More questions to come.

1.) You can get a chain anywhere.

2.) I've used a bench grinder already. Grind off the rivets and separate the link. A chain tool would be best, but it can be done different ways.

3.) You can see up inside the primary if you look with a flashlight. If it's bad, you'll see it. Hooked teeth or sharp, thin, pointed teeth are wear indicators.

4.) It may be. However, chains stretch in time, and the chances are, it's probably worn out, in all reality. As much as saving yourself $100 would be great, just the general condition of your bike, based on what you've done so far, is likely an indicator that the chain was rarely serviced, over the years. Replace it and you'll know for sure.

[Chris Garrett]

Okay I found a Diamond chain at the local Hardly dealership and I will buy the chain breaker tool. The parts guy said I should pull the old chain and lay it down next to the new one so I know how long it needs to be. He said he thought I could feed the new chain onto the forward sprocket. Is this true or do I need to pull the new chain through with the old chain? If so, am I counting the links on the old chain to determine new chain length? Or????

[Dave63]

Laying it out is OK, but makes it a tad more difficult to feed the chain. I've always fed the new chain through, went by where the chain fit with the wheel in the right place first, then cut once. If your old chain is too long, you'll end up cutting twice, as the wheel will be too far back, if you cut the chain to match the old chain.....

[Chris Garrett]

Originally Posted by Dave63

Laying it out is OK, but makes it a tad more difficult to feed the chain. I've always fed the new chain through, went by where the chain fit with the wheel in the right place first, then cut once. If your old chain is too long, you'll end up cutting twice, as the wheel will be too far back, if you cut the chain to match the old chain.....

Okay, how do I determine where the wheel should be when size up the new chain?