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Old 05-01-2010, 08:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Another thing about where the CKP connector is located , I was going by where they are located based on an '02 Heritage Softail I worked on 2 weeks ago . It was behind the regulator plate . Your MoCo service manual has a section at the back that shows connector locations .
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Yeah, I found it....same location. I checked it, and it rings out good. I got 1050-1100 ohms.

Any other ideas? I got the shop manual, but it looks like I needed to have the electrical diagnostic manual. Won't be here for 7-10 days.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Dad-gummit, I didn't see your last post before I put it all back together. I'll get an accurate reading of the ohms, and report back. I think it was closer to 1050, but I'll check.
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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ckp sensor = 1018 ohms.
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Old 05-02-2010, 04:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Rand View Post
ckp sensor = 1018 ohms.
That would be within parameters . I've got a brand new CKP at my shop and it measured 1015 ohms yesterday . I still wouldn't rule your CKP out as the problem .
Other things that could cause the A and C terminals to not get their signal are a faulty TSM or a poorly crimped wire pin contact at the TSM connector or a faulty ECM .
The BAS ( bank angle sensor ) located and incorporated into the TSM can cause the engine to not start . Also I have run into the bad wire crimp thing at the TSM connector before , a real bitch to diagnose I might add .
To get into diagnosing electrical problems in depth requires the Electrical Diagnostic Manual .
Now , if you had a buddy with a bike that would loan you his / her CKP just to try in yours would be nice . CKPs are all the same except for wire length and where the wire angles out of the CKP .
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:06 PM   #26 (permalink)
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So, I'm just not sure where to go from here. I've checked my coil, and it's within spec, and my ckp sensor as well. I am hoping to be able to check more once the diagnostic manual gets here. I hate the thought that my sensor, and my coil test out o.k., but either, or both could still be bad. I hate this small town I live in. The only motorcycle dealer is in the next town, and THEY don't have a way to test the coil dynamically. Thanks for suggesting some other things. I'll have to get ahold of that manual, and dig in from there.

I hate to sound redundant, but here it goes....before it quit running...it would run pretty good, but miss here and there. Then it would run on one cylinder. Ran like that for a little while, not on the road, but when I started it up. Even took the front plug wire off, and put it on the back cylinder...that would make the back fire. At that point I decided it was the plug wires. After changing the plug wires, ran good for a trip around the block. Next day, firing on one cylinder again. Later that day, started one more time, and then just quit. Wouldn't run anymore after that. I hate to keep stating the obvious, but whatever it is, kind of went gradually downhill, and then just quit alltogether. Can any of these symptoms be used to isolate the problem?
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Old 05-03-2010, 06:51 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I just reread all your posts and noticed that you didn't mention cranking the engine over while testing the A and C contacts , you won't see the test light flash unless you're cranking the engine at the same time .
From the measurements you took at the coil the numbers you came up with sound good , I'd rule the coil out untill you get the A and C coil connector contacts to register voltage . The coil won't fire the plugs untill it receives the trigger signal . The Electrical Diagnostic Manual has an elaborate diagnostic flow chart outlining the test procedure pinpointing the coil connector , about 3 pages long . At certain points the flow chart directs you to install " breakout boxes " which you won't have access to , bypass those tests and continue through the flow chart with your multimeter and test light .
Try finding a CKP that you can plug into your bike to either confirm or eliminate your CKP as the problem .
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:09 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Understood, and yes, I was cranking the motor when testing the A, and C contacts. One thing I don't understand is that the light doesn't light up, but if I pull the plug wires and hold it just off the plug, it fires. So why would voltage get to the plugs when that happens, and not when the plug wires are installed, or the test light is at those contacts?
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Old 05-08-2010, 08:15 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Rand View Post
Understood, and yes, I was cranking the motor when testing the A, and C contacts. One thing I don't understand is that the light doesn't light up, but if I pull the plug wires and hold it just off the plug, it fires. So why would voltage get to the plugs when that happens, and not when the plug wires are installed, or the test light is at those contacts?
You get spark because you changed the circuit resistance , the spark had to jump the air gap . If you would have had the test light in series with the A or C pin at the same time you would have seen it flash .
I've had similar experiences with earlier Sportsters and Dynas , wouldn't start do to no spark , put the spark tester in series with the plug and plug wire and the engine fires . The spark tester caused the circuit resistance to rise . In the case of the Sportsters and Dynas replacing the ignition pickup remedied the symptom .
In a nut shell , you can get spark and you say it's getting fuel but it's not starting . If I had to take a guess and just throw one part at it ... CKP . It's firing the plugs and it's getting fuel but the timing is off .
Did ya get your electrical diagnostics manual yet ?
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:10 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quick note here. The spark plugs will not fire if you pull the plugs from the motor to test them. The ECM knows when to fire the plugs because the CKP signal senses the slowdown of the flywheels due to the cylinder compression. No plug in hole=no spark. Strange but true. The coil has positive 12 volts at one lead, switched negative at the other two leads. You test the ignition system by checking for voltage between the positive lead and both of the switched negative leads. One at a time. Also, the CKP is an AC pickup coil, or AC generator. Won't find that in any manuals. Should put out about 4 volts AC at crankover speed, if memory serves me. Which it occasionally does. There is also a way to definitely test that coil with that test light and a condenser. A coil can have the correct primary and secondary resistance when cold and short one of coils to itself when voltage is applied, causing a no fire condition. Good luck on the problem
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