Help with Stator replacement - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Help with Stator replacement

After doing electrical tests I've found out my stator is bad on my 2002 Dyna Super Glide (FXD) I got the primary cover off now the fun part. How do I take off all the other parts to get to the stator? Clutch front gear and adjuster.

Philip
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 06:53 PM
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Clutch retaining nut needs to come off. (Reverse lefthand thread)
Primary chain adjuster removed.
Compensating sprocket removed. (righthand thread)

Stator is behind compensating sprocket, cover.

The torque specs are critical come reinstalltion time, so you'll need a manual for specific torque sequences and numbers.

You'll need to either lock the primary chain or use air tools to get everything loosened. Locktite on the compensating sprocket is a must. Not sure if you have the auto primary adjsuter or not, but there's a specific way to reset that as well, in reinstallation.

If the primary adjuster is a manual one, set it according to specs, while cold.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Stator replacement procedure

According to the manual the primary adjuster is manual and it has instructions in the owners manual. I think I can handle this it's pretty simple.
What grade of loctite should I use
Any suggestion on how to lock the chain to get this all apart.

Thanks,

Phil

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave63 View Post
Clutch retaining nut needs to come off. (Reverse lefthand thread)
Primary chain adjuster removed.
Compensating sprocket removed. (righthand thread)

Stator is behind compensating sprocket, cover.

The torque specs are critical come reinstalltion time, so you'll need a manual for specific torque sequences and numbers.

You'll need to either lock the primary chain or use air tools to get everything loosened. Locktite on the compensating sprocket is a must. Not sure if you have the auto primary adjsuter or not, but there's a specific way to reset that as well, in reinstallation.

If the primary adjuster is a manual one, set it according to specs, while cold.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moffett8 View Post
Any idea on how to tell if it has an auto primary adjuster. I need to know to be able to find out how to reset if I need too? I don't know what too look for.

Any suggestion on how to lock the chain to get this all apart.

Thanks,

Phil
I lock my chain with a locking tool. You can use a hockey puck, wedged in the chain, at the clutch hub. Airtools make it much simpler.

Auto adjuster lacks the 2 bolts for slider adjustment. Looks like this:



The rest looks like this...








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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:18 PM
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the manual adjuster will have a 3/8 nut holding it on,auto one will have a spring & shimms under it,use air & an impact taking it apart,its not rocket science getting the chain back to spec,dont get to worked up about it,just make sure its got about a 1/2" up or downplay.the stator can be a bitch to get off(because of the magnets).i tap the stator holes to 5/16,screw in a couple bolts and pull it off(also helps with putting it back on)just using you hands to reinstall the rotor can be painfull,if the magnets pull it back too quick and your skin gets in the way.also i would use loctite on the clutch nut,but not the compensator.if you use air,it wont be needed(we`ve alot of bikes over the years where loctite has been used on comp. spkt,and wont come off,even with air)
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:21 PM
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just my 2 cents,but i wouldnt use anything in between the chain and the teeth.not a good idea for the chain or the sprokets,no offence dave
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-21-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320 View Post
just my 2 cents,but i wouldnt use anything in between the chain and the teeth.not a good idea for the chain or the sprokets,no offence dave
kirby
vee twin racing
Yeah....I heard of people doing it, but I chose to buy the tool anyway. Placed sell a stepped tool that does the same thing, in that it acts like a wedge.

I prefer to hold the clutch basket with the tool.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
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Torque specs

My engine has the manual adjuster. Does anyone know the torque on the clutch, comp sprocket and the manual chain adjuster? 1450 engine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by prodrag1320 View Post
the manual adjuster will have a 3/8 nut holding it on,auto one will have a spring & shimms under it,use air & an impact taking it apart,its not rocket science getting the chain back to spec,dont get to worked up about it,just make sure its got about a 1/2" up or downplay.the stator can be a bitch to get off(because of the magnets).i tap the stator holes to 5/16,screw in a couple bolts and pull it off(also helps with putting it back on)just using you hands to reinstall the rotor can be painfull,if the magnets pull it back too quick and your skin gets in the way.also i would use loctite on the clutch nut,but not the compensator.if you use air,it wont be needed(we`ve alot of bikes over the years where loctite has been used on comp. spkt,and wont come off,even with air)
kirby
vee twin racing
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-22-2009, 07:15 AM
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Befor I bougth the stepped-delrin block, I had my wife press the rear brake while I loosened/tightened everything. It worked.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-23-2009, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, tried for a while to break loose the primary gear. I was using a torque wrench as a breaker bar and set the torque to 175 to see how tight it was. I hit 175 and then some and it still didn't come loose. I don't have air tools.....I guess thats why it has a 1 1/2 bolt.
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