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Old 04-22-2011, 10:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Another 103ci engine "ping" but with a twist

OK, I've read through the forums and have come to the conclusion that the engine tap or "pinging" is normal for my bike (2011 Ultra Classic Limited). It's all stock with 2890 miles, running 93 octane gas and the Syn 3 oil in the engine and regular HD oil in the tranny (I'll run all Syn 3 with the next oil change). Now here's the twist; I was riding home from work and hit the usual major commuter traffic back up (DC and LA can really relate to this). The outside air temp was about 65 degrees or so. In the traffic jam I went about 2 miles in 30-35 minutes. While sitting in traffic the rear cylinder would shutdown for cooling purposes as advertised, however due to creeping along it wouldn't stay in "cooling mode" for long. In other words, the bike would routinely go in and out of "cooling mode" with the stop and go traffic. At about the 25 minute mark while sitting still the bike went in to cooling, but as it did the RPMs dropped and the bike stalled, i.e., shut down. It started right up with no problem, but the same thing happened again about 5-10 minutes later under the same conditions. Again, the restart was normal. When I was finally able to get the speed up there was "out-of-the-norm" knocking during acceleration throughout the gear range, which eventually subsided once I was able to get air across the motor and cool it down some. After that everything seemed to be normal.

So the question (after the long, yet thorough and anal set-up) is this - How concerned should I be with the engine shutting down like it did? Is this a normal thing to prevent damage? Should I have just sucked it up and pulled over to the side and shut down for 15 or 20 minutes to cool down? I'm especially concerned since we haven't even entered the summer months yet here in the great Commonwealth of Virginia.

Any assistance you all can provide will be greatly appreciated. Cheers...
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:58 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDU1961 View Post
OK, I've read through the forums and have come to the conclusion that the engine tap or "pinging" is normal for my bike (2011 Ultra Classic Limited). It's all stock with 2890 miles, running 93 octane gas and the Syn 3 oil in the engine and regular HD oil in the tranny (I'll run all Syn 3 with the next oil change). Now here's the twist; I was riding home from work and hit the usual major commuter traffic back up (DC and LA can really relate to this). The outside air temp was about 65 degrees or so. In the traffic jam I went about 2 miles in 30-35 minutes. While sitting in traffic the rear cylinder would shutdown for cooling purposes as advertised, however due to creeping along it wouldn't stay in "cooling mode" for long. In other words, the bike would routinely go in and out of "cooling mode" with the stop and go traffic. At about the 25 minute mark while sitting still the bike went in to cooling, but as it did the RPMs dropped and the bike stalled, i.e., shut down. It started right up with no problem, but the same thing happened again about 5-10 minutes later under the same conditions. Again, the restart was normal. When I was finally able to get the speed up there was "out-of-the-norm" knocking during acceleration throughout the gear range, which eventually subsided once I was able to get air across the motor and cool it down some. After that everything seemed to be normal.

So the question (after the long, yet thorough and anal set-up) is this - How concerned should I be with the engine shutting down like it did? Is this a normal thing to prevent damage? Should I have just sucked it up and pulled over to the side and shut down for 15 or 20 minutes to cool down? I'm especially concerned since we haven't even entered the summer months yet here in the great Commonwealth of Virginia.

Any assistance you all can provide will be greatly appreciated. Cheers...
You have a big engine in a motorcycle that has a lot of restrictions on the air that can get to the engine to cool it. I put some Desert Dawg vinyl lowers over the crash bars on my 2009 FXD this winter. Even though air gets through to the engine in the center, that is the hottest that my Dyna has ever run. I'd never use lowers over 50 degrees.

It's going to get a lot hotter this summer. I'd suggest getting an oil cooler, possibly one of the models with an electric fan. Harley has a fan that can be added to some of their bikes that I've been told can bring down your engine temperature by over 30 degrees F. They are supposed to be a popular option on cop bikes. I'd switch over to a good quality fully synthetic engine oil too.

Even though your bike is designed to go into a cool down mode, I think that is little more than a work-around for an engine that cannot maintain its normal operating temperature.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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02 sensors to lean !!!

Hi , I ride a 2008 Ultra Classic the first year of the fly by wire an engine heat management . It's been a perfect addition as it works very well . I graduated Auto Tech @ Rock Springs Area Tech in 1969 . I've never made a living as a tech but, I've always been a hot rodder . Just a little back ground . On this forum there is a thread on 02 sensors covering knock, heat & stalling . I wasn't having any problems so I didn't record the cure . I think you're having a lean mixture causing the knock ,heat & stalling !! I think you need to upgrade your 02 sensors to cure this problems . I bought a new 2007 Ultra an it was a dog but, never ran hot or knocked or stalled . The 02 bung holes were down in front of the mufflers an my 2008 Ultra bungs are just out of the cylinder heads . I'm guessing they have different heat ranges on the 02 sensors . You could call Harley parts to check part numbers if you can't find the thread . I believe new 02's will give you more fuel to solve all your problems . These are just an old mans thoughts . Bud- TET 1968 Loc Ninh, Fire Base Harry ,11th Calv.

Last edited by bud; 04-23-2011 at 05:36 AM. Reason: Plaese "Pass on" the cure for this problem to help others
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Stopped by the dealer today and chatted with the service department. Really good shop and trustworthy (the owner and son are brother Masons). After talking with the service manager, he recommended that the best "first step" is to go ahead and install the SE Stage 1 Air Cleaner, 50mm and the EFI Super Tuner, SE Kit. This should help the bike run a little cooler and more efficiently. Will be having that done next weekend. He also said that things will improve as the bike continues to break-in (which seems to be a recurring theme throughout a lot of these forums). The next step after the above will be new pipes. Probably Screaming Eagle.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RDU1961 View Post
Stopped by the dealer today and chatted with the service department. Really good shop and trustworthy (the owner and son are brother Masons). After talking with the service manager, he recommended that the best "first step" is to go ahead and install the SE Stage 1 Air Cleaner, 50mm and the EFI Super Tuner, SE Kit. This should help the bike run a little cooler and more efficiently. Will be having that done next weekend. He also said that things will improve as the bike continues to break-in (which seems to be a recurring theme throughout a lot of these forums). The next step after the above will be new pipes. Probably Screaming Eagle.
Every time you add these new parts to your bike, it will require a dyno tune which will make your wallet a little lighter. I would add these components all at once and dyno tune once which wont make the brothers Masons any richer!
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDU1961 View Post
Stopped by the dealer today and chatted with the service department. Really good shop and trustworthy (the owner and son are brother Masons). After talking with the service manager, he recommended that the best "first step" is to go ahead and install the SE Stage 1 Air Cleaner, 50mm and the EFI Super Tuner, SE Kit. This should help the bike run a little cooler and more efficiently. Will be having that done next weekend. He also said that things will improve as the bike continues to break-in (which seems to be a recurring theme throughout a lot of these forums). The next step after the above will be new pipes. Probably Screaming Eagle.
I have the same engine and Ride in Atlanta Traffic EVERY DAY, I purchased my bike in January and have 6K on it. No shutdown at any time.
1. Make sure you have the Idel rear cylinder shutdown enabled,
2. If it is the 103 engine you should already have an oil cooler......

If the bike shuts down on its own, there is someting sombody missed, take it in and have EVERYTHING rechecked, its under warranty!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:57 PM   #7 (permalink)
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here in kalifornia, we can "white line". no sittin in heavy traffic EVER
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