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01-06-2012, 02:11 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Retired citizen
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pt. Wash.,WI
Posts: 10,712
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Yes the Syn won't emulisfy with the condensation as quickly as regular motor oil .
Here's another weird fact about syn oil ... it doesn't burn ! Pour some old drain syn oil on a fire and it'll put the fire out !!! No shit !!!
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01-06-2012, 02:19 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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evohogfarts
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 1,421
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Evo
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMIDTYS
Oil coolers have built in thermostats and don't allow oil thru until the oil is hot enough to get cooled . I wouldn't worry about the oil cooler affecting anything when the engine is cold .
An air cooled engine is up to operating temp when you can't put your hand against the crankcase without fear of burning your hand , hot to the touch ! Not like touching a head or cylinder , they get hot real quick !
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the jagg 4 core cooler is just a cooler, they did offer a manual valve you could plumb in, I went with out it for better flow.
Was going to go with the oil cooler that goes in the oil filter housing with a stat, but no one seemed to know for sure if it would fit or work on my evo.
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knuckle buster
LiveToRideHarleyDavidsonEvo
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01-06-2012, 04:13 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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On the fence!
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 5,034
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Wow great thread Schmidtys, everytime someone mentions that just starting ur bike once in awhile in the winter for a half hour is a good thing these pics should be posted!!
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"09" Road King
"10" Forty-Eight
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01-06-2012, 09:03 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Imperial Wizard...
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Emory,Tx.
Posts: 3,536
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Iwas reading this post this AM...Didn't think to much about it at first...then went today to pick up the OL's new to us fatboy from the stealership today and pulled out the dipstick and it was "milky" looking too...oil only had 20 miles since the oil was changed ....they had been pulling it in and out of the stealership for about a month..not run long enough to heat it up, I suppose...I made them change it with new filter...This post gave me the heads up.. Thanks..
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01-06-2012, 10:14 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Seņor Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kankakee Co., IL
Posts: 7,268
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Looks like my bilge of my Sea Ray the spring after I paid my boat mechanic to NOT winterize my boat. The upside was the fresh block I scored as a result.
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2011 Road King Classic, Python slip-ons, Stage 1 SE a/c, Power Commander V
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01-07-2012, 12:00 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Saskatoon
Posts: 152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by misinlink
Interesting... I knew it wasn't good to just let em run in the driveway for a bit then put it back in the garage, like the boys up North might do over the winter.
Schmidtys, I am sure there is not an exact answer, but what would it take to prevent this? I assume engine at operating temps, but for what duration? And under load I would assume.
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Load isn't an issue. Getting the bike up to operating temp and maintaining that temperature is what you want.
When you shut off the bike and it cools off the cases cool faster then the inside,causing condensation. Now tge next time you ride ideally you want to ride long enough or let the bike run long enoughto evaporate the water from the previous run. If it doesn't all evaporate you get a surplus of water. Repeat this over and over,day after day and you can have a serious problem.
You can avoid this by operating the bike at temp for at least 20 minutes. The oil will get hot enough,for long enough to evaporate the little bit of water that is in the cases.
Now if you are a short tripper you will want to change your oil more often or take er out for a half hour run every few days to evaporate the water in the crankcase.
And now for those guys who think it's a good idea to go out to the garage and let it idle in the off season you now see why it isn't.
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01-07-2012, 06:23 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Reading your mind...
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: ---
Posts: 5,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shreddin Rubber
Load isn't an issue. Getting the bike up to operating temp and maintaining that temperature is what you want.
When you shut off the bike and it cools off the cases cool faster then the inside,causing condensation. Now tge next time you ride ideally you want to ride long enough or let the bike run long enoughto evaporate the water from the previous run. If it doesn't all evaporate you get a surplus of water. Repeat this over and over,day after day and you can have a serious problem.
You can avoid this by operating the bike at temp for at least 20 minutes. The oil will get hot enough,for long enough to evaporate the little bit of water that is in the cases.
Now if you are a short tripper you will want to change your oil more often or take er out for a half hour run every few days to evaporate the water in the crankcase.
And now for those guys who think it's a good idea to go out to the garage and let it idle in the off season you now see why it isn't.
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By load I meant riding.... i think we are on the same page.
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01-09-2012, 10:20 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Noel
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Attleboro Ma
Posts: 693
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Interesting to see how the oil change effects the noise! My issue (noisy cam chest) is still a problem with a fresh oil change AMSOIL 20/50.
I used to see this on my old 98 Evo, I learned this bad lesson real quick and stopped idling the bike in the driveway, instead I geared up and went for a ride, if it was poor road conditions, then she remained in the garage at a stable 40 degrees or warmer when I was in there working on something.
The TC110 has never had milky oil, even in winter riding season, I do lot's of 30+ minute runs, my commute to work is about 8 miles with traffic I'm usually there in 15 minutes, some of the trip is 70 mph hard load
Pleasure riding I'll go 60 to 100 miles jaunts into rural roads to relax, plenty of time to get her hot and boil off the condensate.
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2006 VRXSE Destroyer: VRD-941, SG-941
Best time: 9.661
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01-10-2012, 06:08 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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Retired citizen
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pt. Wash.,WI
Posts: 10,712
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Couple more pics , rocker covers removed yesterday ...
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Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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11-16-2012, 07:22 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Eaton, Ohio
Posts: 1
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I have the same problem, work 15 from the house and ride as much as possible, ie no rain or snow/salt and at least 35-40 degrees then i am ridin. what is the best way to clean this crap out without crackin it open? can i hop on the interstate and run it for 30-40 minutes one way then back go right up on the table and dump the oil and filter? what about the oil in the rest of the bike? can you ride it long and hot enough to burn off all the moisture? will emulsified oil make it rum rough? not sputtery but vibrationy? my check engine light has been staying on longer then the oil light when i start it up but it DOES go off after a few more seconds. Thanks guys!
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