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Old 10-22-2012, 02:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Upgrading cams in a 2012 Fat Bob

Okay, so this may be a really stupid question.

It's a 2012 Fat Bob, 103 ci, Stage 1 mods.

I got a price for Stage 2 that's around $1300 total.

Too steep for me right now. Here's what may be the stupid question:

Can I just crack it open and replace the cams only for now? Seems to me it would reduce labor and parts costs; I don't necessarily need to go any further at this time. or

Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'll be watchin' this post quietly and intently. I'm a few months away from almost the same issue. I'm planning on having a 2013 Fatbob Stage 1 waiting at the dealership, and am considering going on with Stage 2 and be done with it. Really interested in everyone's take on cam choice for stage II...

What cams you considering, Lakota?
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm doing stage 4 on my 2012 Fat Bob over the winter and going with the Crane 296 cam that my tech recommended.


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Old 10-22-2012, 04:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilJo View Post
I'll be watchin' this post quietly and intently. I'm a few months away from almost the same issue. I'm planning on having a 2013 Fatbob Stage 1 waiting at the dealership, and am considering going on with Stage 2 and be done with it. Really interested in everyone's take on cam choice for stage II...

What cams you considering, Lakota?
Looking for wisdom from the collective here. Stage 1 is something you just *have* to do; I'd like to do Stage 2, but in increments just because I don't have that kind of coin right now.

So. I'm asking about cam choice and *also* whether I have to do any other mods when it's cracked open. Right now, I can't afford that $1300 for the whole package the dealer quoted.

Is this a decent idea, and should I just wait until I have the $ to do it all?


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Old 10-22-2012, 05:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Just do a tuner and intake/exhaust. If that is done is there a bolt on cam set that would do much without head work? Only the torque cams like 255's on my touring bikes work well enough without head work in my limited motor builds.
Get stage iv and the heads become an issue as does the throttle body, injectors, cams, tune, etc. most fun though!!!
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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S&S .570`s,set compresion @ 9.8-1 to 10.0-1.best bang for the bucks,around $275.00 for cams & 65.00 to cc & mill heads
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Old 10-22-2012, 10:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks, guys; I appreciate the quick and clear responses. Got the info I needed.

This is a damn good forum.


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Old 10-23-2012, 08:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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All good suggestions, but I will add that a 1.900" intake valve, along with a 1.630", 40* hi-tulip-shaped exhaust valve will greatly enhance the flow charcteristics, and put more to the ground, yet.
Scott
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Old 11-05-2012, 08:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Also, if your new bob is under warranty you may void it out if you dont have the dealer do it...... Just a thought


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Old 11-05-2012, 09:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Also, if your new bob is under warranty you may void it out if you dont have the dealer do it...... Just a thought


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Nope, but keep your receipts.

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