shovelhead- stock or stroker - Page 2 - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2009, 07:49 PM
Luke 22:36
 
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Stroker Crank/Flywheels
Stroker Pistons
Big bore cylinders if you are going 3 5/8"
Stock length rods 7.440"

Recommend good forged pieces for Crank, Pistons and Rods.

'05 Carbed Night Train
111 rwhp, 112 rwtq
Best 1/4 ET 12.557s
Best 1/4 MPH 108.59
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-27-2009, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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ok thats what i was thinking. 4 5/8 stroke wheels, maybe big bore , or maybe stock jugs and 9.5:1 pistons. another guy was telling me that a stroker is not good for long rides, hammering on it, or cruising on the interstate over 65 or 70 mph. this guy is telling me it wont hold up well, and wont last long. i want to have the longjevity of a fresh rebuilt motor. long rides, hammering on it when need be and so on. so is this guy full of st** or is all that true.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-27-2009, 11:15 PM
Luke 22:36
 
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Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
ok thats what i was thinking. 4 5/8 stroke wheels, maybe big bore , or maybe stock jugs and 9.5:1 pistons. another guy was telling me that a stroker is not good for long rides, hammering on it, or cruising on the interstate over 65 or 70 mph. this guy is telling me it wont hold up well, and wont last long. i want to have the longjevity of a fresh rebuilt motor. long rides, hammering on it when need be and so on. so is this guy full of st** or is all that true.
He is right IF you use modified cast parts. If you use forged internals you get back your reliability....

It all has to do with piston speed. Strokers have a higher piston speed than stock.... Forged motors can handle ~23% higher piston speeds than stock cast motors. (4800RPM vs 5900RPM for what we are talking about)


This link can probably explain it better than I can.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ton_speed.html

This is also why I recommended going with forged internals, so that you can keep your stock redline.

'05 Carbed Night Train
111 rwhp, 112 rwtq
Best 1/4 ET 12.557s
Best 1/4 MPH 108.59
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 01:46 PM
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stroke it

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Originally Posted by hawkeye View Post
Ok guys need some help. i'm getting ready to build a motor, a shovel, and need to the pros and cons of building a strocker or going stock. i have bought used cases have all other parts except rods (one is broke went through the case). so i have to buy new rods anyway. havn't checked checked the wheels yet so dont know if i can use them. but i do have new heads. my question is when building a stroker motor what all has to be changed from stock? is it worth it? any help will be helpful.
Stroke it
Shovels average 20,000 0ut 0f the top end do to valve guide where 50,000 out of the bottom end so you loose 5,000 out of a milled stoker. Stroke it.
My Shovel is a 1971 FX 96 cu. inch 5 speed Trans, Crane HI-4 Ignition System - Single Fire twin plug heads Andrews B grind Cam. S&S carb, It is a fun to ride I don’t have a car so yes it is a daily rider. I work offshore on a oil rig and can be gone for months come home hit the start button fires right up.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 06:25 PM
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 07:36 PM
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stroker

we`ve done ALOT of stroked shovels over the years,for a nice,happy,reliable shovel,go 4.5 stroke x 3.625 bore = 93".keep comp. around 9.5-9.7-1,dual plug heads,andrews M cam.will keep up with most bikes and last forever.(ours do)
kirby
vee twin racing
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 07:40 PM
Ride it!
 
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I agree with prodrag, my shovels were 93" strokers, awesome motor, reliable and ran really great. Just my opinion. I used the S&S flywheels.
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