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Old 11-20-2012, 08:25 AM   #21 (permalink)
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re fuel moto 2/1/2 ceramic

I just wanted to clarify. I did not want to increase the noise, wanted to keep pipes noise volume using the jackpot and stock mufflers the same as stock. Had rineharts, losing some hearing...

what is the volume increase? also, just want the header pipes because heat from cat will be reduced by approx 50% using ceramic...

thanks for help..
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:39 AM   #22 (permalink)
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The single best thing you can do for your new touring bike is install the Jackpot 2 into 1 into 2 header by fuel moto. If no other mods are performed, this alone will help tremendously. The O.E. header with its poorly designed collector(if you can call it that) not only performs poorly, but creates enough heat to fry your leg as well as all components near it. The new 103 engines do perform well with this as well as an air cleaner upgrade, and most riders will be happy with the power. In my shop, I have installed many of these, as well as some V&H Power Duels. My direct results indicate the Power duels do not compare. The Jackpot pipe is a far superior piece that is constructed from best material, and welded to perfection. It also carries a lifetime warranty.
I love to build "Hot Rods" but if you are the guy that wants a little bump in power without going into the engine, do yourself a favor and install this exhaust. Your bike will love you for it.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I would like to get the Jackpot 2/1/2 header on my '12 streetglide. Fuel Moto has a great reputation and I ordered my Power Vision tuner from them. It came preloaded with a map for the stage 1 intake I'm using. All I had to do was marry it to my bike and download the provided map. That was great customer service. Regarding the 2/1/2 header, per the dyno charts provided on their site, it looks like the 2/1/2 header will add about 5 hp compared to a stock headpipe. That's a direct comparison with the same bike on the same day equipped with a stage 1 intake, Jackpot mufflers, and Dynojet PC-V. The only difference in the two runs was the stock headpipe vrs the 2/1/2 Jackpot header, so that should be a good direct comparison. Here's the dyno run:



I think a 5 hp peak increase would be noticable by the seat of the pants dyno too. So, I'd like to give this set-up a try. I've currently got the stock headpipe that I gutted the cat out of. It's been fine over the last year but I don't think it's optimum for power. When you gut the cat from the manifold area, it leaves a big gaping hole that I'm sure isn't very efficient at flowing exhaust or creating the correct back pressure. But gutting the cat from the stock head pipe does improve the sound of the bike. It makes it a bit louder with a hollower/deeper tone. It also removes a lot of heat from behind your right foot which is probably the best reason to gut the cat. And it's cheap. I cut a window over the cat material, chiseled out the cat, and had it MIG welded back up for $25 at a local shop and I was back in business. It's way better but it's not a tuned performance header like the Jackpot 2/1/2 is.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Cool Replacing Headers

I'm new to this/fourm. I have 2012 Road King. Cataltic converter and heat is over the top, especially in Florida summer.
HD shop is telling me in order to change headers they recommend: Kit, SE Stage 1 a/c 50MM ($140), KIT-EF1 Super Tuner, Scream ($460) and True Dual Head Pipe ($519) with labor of 7 hours ($560).

I don't mind spending when necessary but this seems HIGH. I see on the Forum "Fuel Moto Headers", are any better. I'm looking for recommendations, suggestions to do a good job, reduce the heat and make the bike sound. I have rehinheart slip ons exhaust.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:12 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tcisodar View Post
I'm new to this/fourm. I have 2012 Road King. Cataltic converter and heat is over the top, especially in Florida summer.
HD shop is telling me in order to change headers they recommend: Kit, SE Stage 1 a/c 50MM ($140), KIT-EF1 Super Tuner, Scream ($460) and True Dual Head Pipe ($519) with labor of 7 hours ($560).

I don't mind spending when necessary but this seems HIGH. I see on the Forum "Fuel Moto Headers", are any better. I'm looking for recommendations, suggestions to do a good job, reduce the heat and make the bike sound. I have rehinheart slip ons exhaust.

So your dealer wants you to spend big bucks ?

Have to say I'm shocked, shocked !

Can you do simple work yourself ?
All this is very very simple in the overall world of mechanics.
D&D supposedly makes a non-remap exhaust that will wipe out most of your heat problems and sound cool to boot.

However;

I just went Rinehart xtereme true duals $400 (retail a grand) on ebay and Fuel Moto intake with Dynojet Power vision $550, and a day of my labor. Sounds great and I can feel the boost. No catalytic converter so that heat is all gone.
If I ever want to go with more stuff (cams) this system is adaptable with no dealer dyno "help".
Or if you want to keep your slip ons look to ebay for a non-cat factory pipe conversion. About $200 w/exchange IIRC.
The factory down pipe actually looks fairly efficient.
Its the Cat thats killing your system.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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PS; If you do go the dealer route you may as well get the intake you want.
For example an S&S is only a few bucks more.
A Roland Sands double that.
Your already in close to 2 grand.
Do it once.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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just take your header pipe off and drill it out, very easy to do and cheap.get a 1 inch paddle bit 16 inchs long and hang on to the drill takes about an half hour to do.gotta pull your o2 sensors out also but no big deal.much cooler running bike.don't let anyone tell you you can't get it all out i have done this on 4 different bikes with good results.ido'nt know why anyone would cut and reweld when you don't have to.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:12 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hardheaded View Post
just take your header pipe off and drill it out, very easy to do and cheap.get a 1 inch paddle bit 16 inchs long and hang on to the drill takes about an half hour to do.gotta pull your o2 sensors out also but no big deal.much cooler running bike.don't let anyone tell you you can't get it all out i have done this on 4 different bikes with good results.ido'nt know why anyone would cut and reweld when you don't have to.
Dont even have to take it off the bike.


I've thought about this with a long electricians bit thats made for wood.
I have several up to 1".
Dont know how solid the cat element is.
If done this way its not going to be perfectly clean inside the can but I would thing a big bit would clean out enough (done in several places) to make a huge difference.
Exhaust gas will find the route of least resistance.

After the mini-gut start the engine and it will blow out the debris before you remount the slip-ons
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:41 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by glide rider View Post
Will there be a big difference in the fuel moto head pipe over removing the CAT from stock head pipe ??
I had the cat removed and could tell no difference on my 2010 street glide. I had a V&H slip on. It sure made for a nice sounding pipe though.
At the same time my buddy did the whole V&H exhaust system with the programming and air cleaner and was amazed at the difference. He has a 2010 road glide so the engines were the same.
I took my pipe to a local welding shop and they removed the cat for about $20. Be sure to tell them to bandsaw the pipe in two or they may cut it with a chop saw. That will alter your mount points. They should know that much already.
I had already done the programmer before pipe mods so I just wasted that money. If you cut out the cat it will lean your bike out further than stock. (my own assumption)
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:49 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lightguy View Post
Dont even have to take it off the bike.


I've thought about this with a long electricians bit thats made for wood.
I have several up to 1".
Dont know how solid the cat element is.
If done this way its not going to be perfectly clean inside the can but I would thing a big bit would clean out enough (done in several places) to make a huge difference.
Exhaust gas will find the route of least resistance.

After the mini-gut start the engine and it will blow out the debris before you remount the slip-ons
take it off to drill you don't want any of the cat to get in the motor when you fire it up,also remove your o2 sensors so you don't damage them while drilling. the ones i've done are very clean inside,just keep working the drillaround in there and you will get it clean.if you cut in half you have shorten pipe by the with of the saw blade,just no reason to do it.
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