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Old 11-25-2012, 05:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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'13 sportster iron exhaust

I just bought a new sportster iron and I want to change up the exhaust. I am looking at either the V&H big radius 2 into 2 or bassani sweepers.

I don't plan on doing any other mods to the bike after this and I already have the forward controls on the bike.

What I am needing help with is, is there anything else I would need to do to the bike other than installing the pipes? I don't know anything about "mapping" or baffles or anything like that. I am just looking for a good, deep and loud sound from the bike. I would rather not have to have the bike tuned or have to buy a fuelpak, at least at this point in time.

Any help is much appreciated.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you change the engine intake, you will need a remap (dump more fuel) or a tuner. Why? Because you are adding more air to an already lean running engine (Thanks to California and the EPA) Changing exhaust should not require anything else. Just be sure the pipes you buy have O2 sensor ports..
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you change the engine intake, you will need a remap (dump more fuel) or a tuner. Why? Because you are adding more air to an already lean running engine (Thanks to California and the EPA) Changing exhaust should not require anything else. Just be sure the pipes you buy have O2 sensor ports..
Not completely correct. By adding intake and pipes you add more air, but the O2 sensors will see there's more air in the exhaust and only return the bike to the lean/ hot 14.7:1 AFR. There's a ton of guys running around on 2007-2013 bikes with no added fuel with no issues. Yes they're still hot and no they're not performance tuned. I wouldn't do this either if you're in a hot climate.

As well.....2007-2009 have narrow band sensors that have a limited area for adjustments and limited when compared the the ranges of the 2010-2013 models. Even at that.....you really need to be in the low 13 AFR ranges and mid to high 12s for your wot. Factory settings are programmed for stoich and that's not performance standards at all.

The 2010-2012 bike are even more forgiving. Older efi bikes (pre-2007) will not adjust the AFR without a remapping or a fuel adder.

You don't have to add more fuel to O2 sensor bikes but if you're adding parts to increase performance, than not adding fuel to achieve better performance would be a waste.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I am not really looking for an increase in performance, I am mostly looking for an increase in the way the bikes. Could anyone simplify baffles? I understand that can make the exhaust quieter but how could one change the sound of the exhaust? I am looking to get a deep, throaty sound from the exhaust.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If I were to buy V&H do they come with baffles and are they any good?
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Dave, agree completely with your post, the OP was adding exhaust only..my bad for bringing up air intake.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So with that said Dave, would a stage 1 intake, SE or V & H slip ons and then using the Stage 1 re-map, would the a/f ratio go to a richer number for a cooler, richer bike?
Or do I just jump to an aftermarket fuel management controller?
I want the power benefit, and a cooler (non lean) running motor, but not necessarily a fuel mileage killing that most (it seems) controllers hand out.
I know its a fine line... cooler richer perfomance, yet keeping some sort of fuel mileage...

I know I have to pay to play.

Thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The stage-I remap will change timing parameters and raise the rev limit, but you'll still be at the lean mixture. Dealers aren't authorized to raise that afr beyond EPA regulations. Basically, the download will fill in the lean/weak areas I mentioned after an intake mod, keeping the bike running to specs, but it's still gonna be 14.7:1, not performance tuned. The problem is even though it's a closed loop system, it's not ubber fast and it's not through the entire O2 sensor scale. The download helps with that.

You can always buy a fuel adder later. The stage-I download is a waste of money to me. I'd sooner put XEIDS on the bike, and get a richer, across the board afr, and save the cash, if I wasn't looking for every pony out of the engine tune.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Dave, agree completely with your post, the OP was adding exhaust only..my bad for bringing up air intake.
No biggie. I just wanted to point out that with the O2 sensor bikes (2007-up) it's not "as" detromental, as with fixed MAP bikes, like my 2005.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:58 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Having added a V&H exhaust with a Screaming Eagle intake my dealer was unable to map the engine correctly using the standard maps for HD Stage 1 upgrades. The V&H exhaust was the difference from a standard stage 1. The dealer sorted out the correct map of course but it may just be worth getting the mapping checked after an exhaust change in case it makes a significant difference by itself. My Iron sounds good now BTW - well worth the effort to change to a V&H

Andy

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