Clutch cable service

[Dave63]

Something I never gave much thought to, until tonight. Afterwards, I was amazed at the difference in feel. Something so simple and taken for granted by many: Clutch cable lubrication.

Doing this was posted a while ago, but I thought I might as well do a sticky while doing it, to show everyone.

Undo your clutch cable adjustment. Run the barrel all the way in, creating as much slack as possible at the lever.



Afterwards, pull the cable housing out of the lever housing, and then pass it through the slot and away from the control pod.





Next, you need to remove the clip from the bottom of the pivot pin, that holds the lever on. You'll need tiny snap-ring pliars to do this. Or be creative with a pick and a screwdriver.





Once you remove the pin, you'll find a plastic barrel, that holds the clutch cable end into the lever. Remove it, and the lever will separate from the cable.

[Dave63]

With that done, take a Zip-lock Baggie, or any heavy plastic bag, and cut the corner off the bottom, large enough to fit over the cable end.



Once you've done that, slip it over the cable end, and double it up over the cable housing end, and secure it tightly with a nylon tie. This was a little tricky and took me 3 tries.



I then added 10ml (2-teaspoons) of synthetic oil (20w50 if it matters....lol ) into the bag. I held the bag upright, with the cable, and while watching "Forrest Gump" on TV, slowly squeezed the bag down around the cable end, until all the oil went inside the cable housing. I was surprized at how little pressure it took.



Once done, I removed the baggie, the nylon tie, used "antiseize" on the plastic barrel and the lever pin, reassembled everything and readjusted my clutch cable/lever.

I always adjust my clutch lever so when it's relaxed, the lever is against the housing (normal):



And when you just apply a little pressure, there's about, or just less then an 1/8" gap, between the lever end and the lever housing.



Being a 15 year old bike, the issues with dry cables is something that may be more noticable then on a 5 year old bike. Never the less, the difference was noticable. More then noticable.... I was amazed.....

[Rockerbox1]

good write up and step by step Dave, Thanks

[ruby4me]

that was written so even a non mechanic could do it. I use syringes for putting the oil in makes it easier.

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by ruby4me

I use syringes for putting the oil in makes it easier.

Tried that. The oil kept backing up, and it was getting messy. The syringe tip can only sit at the cable, where it meets the housing. Even with a "needle" on the end, stuck in the crack between the cable and housing, it was messy... How do you do it?

[Nathang]

...I was amazed at the difference in feel...

And that right there is the reason you should change to a hydraulic clutch.

I mean c'mon, if a lubricated (maybe) cable in a sleeve was the best way to do that job,

you'd still have cable actuated brakes. The hydraulic clutch master and slave upgrade

is not even all that expensive as HD upgrades go, especially if your bike is not all chrome.

The hydraulic line is smaller, less ugly, much more flexible and easier to route than a

big heavy cable sleeve. And no adjustments. Try it, you'll be glad you did.

Especially if you've got increased clutch pressure like comes with the 95" kit

and I'd bet is standard on 96" bikes. Completely eliminates

extra and unnecessary fatigue from clutch cable friction.



.

[SCHMIDTYS]

Good show ! I wasn't going to say anything but ... what ever you pour into that cable goes all the way down to the other end and into the trans so make sure that the lubricant will mix with whatever you've got in the trans . Doing it Daves way I think I would use Formula Plus because that's what I run in the trans .

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by Nathang

And that right there is the reason you should change to a hydraulic clutch.

I mean c'mon, if a lubricated (maybe) cable in a sleeve was the best way to do that job, you'd still have cable actuated brakes. The hydraulic clutch master and slave upgrade is not even all that expensive as HD upgrades go, especially if your bike is not all chrome.

I agreed Nathan. Hydraulics are much more efficient, and their reasoning for it was due to less effort for more action.

However, with my clutch, it's a stock pressure plate and I also have the EZ-pull Burley kit installed for $36, http://www.harley-davidsonforums.com...l-install.html which makes my clutch about the same as most hydraulic clutches, for far less money.

If I ever went to bogger CID, and added a stiffer pressure plate, I'd have to give it serious thought, though.

With a hydraulic clutch, you still have to change the fluid every so often, even with DOT5, that seems to turn bad faster then the brake fluid does, due to the smaller amount in the system.

[ruby4me]

I pull the cable just like you do and suspend it up high as I can it takes awhile but it has worked for me all these years. Also use the same method on throttle cables. When I changed to the 17" apes I pulled the stock cables apart just to see what they looked like after 7yrs and they were still in new condition. Before I put new cables on I hung them from rafters and let them hang overnight with lube then put them on. Works for me. Been doing my own maintance for awhile, but can always learn better ways

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by ruby4me

I pull the cable just like you do and suspend it up high as I can it takes awhile....

That was my issue. It seemed to take forever, although it was working. The bag trick allows you to apply pressure and keep oil from going anywhere, other then in the cable housing.

If I started the job earlier then 930pm, and had more beer...I'da done it your way.