How to: Oil/filter change on a Roadking. - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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How to: Oil/filter change on a Roadking.

This is a 2004 Roadking. The airfilter element is off the Arlen Ness backing plate, to clean and reoil.



Under your bike are two drain plugs. The one facing DOWN and farther to the rear, is the TRANS drain plug. The one facing FORWARD on the pan, and closest to the engine, is the ENGINE drain plug. Both are 5/8".

Run engine for about 2-3 minutes. You want to make sure the crankcase is empty and most of the oil is in the pan, and not in your crankcase. Warm oil drains faster then cold oil as well.

Trans drain bolt: (pointing to with black, gloved finger, on right side, at frame)





Engine drain bolt: Note** That's also on the left side of the bike, closer to the primary.



Using a suitable, low-sided pan, drain the oil. When finished, wipe the magnetic plug off and take note of any dibris, if any. There should be nothing more then small, "fuzzies". Anything more, and something's not good in the world....

Note O-ring on plug. Rule of thumb: If you don't have a new one, your old one will tear. No need to replace a good O-ring, but if it's torn or cut in any way, replace it. If you don't have a replacement, the gremlins will tear the one you have, and leave you hanging. Murphy's law.

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__________________________________________
When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional.... ~ Hunter S. Thompson~

R.I.P. Rubberdown. 1971-2012

"Your Jedi Mind tricks will not work on me...... ~Misinlink-2016~

2005 E.G. Classic
S&S 510 cams
Baisley Oil pump spring
CYCO tensioners
V&H Fuelpak
SE 3.5" pipes
K&N filter
Fueling lifters
S&S adj pushrods
Swingarm stabilizer

Last edited by Dave63; 04-10-2011 at 02:24 PM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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After replacing the oil plug, move pan forward under filter. I like to use a strap type wrench to make sure I don't damage the cranks sensor, or stator plug.



Replace with new filter. A little oil on the rubber to make it spin without binding, is good. I put mine on hand tight, then go another 1/4 turn. No more. Wash down with Brake-Clean chlorinated, not Non-Chlorinated, or favored cleaner.

Fill with 3.5qts of prefered oil. I add 3.5, then measure. Some take 3.5, maybe a tad more if a cooler is installed. Always run bike first to fill lines and filter, then take an accurate reading with bike on kickstand or upright, as some models vary. See owner's manual.

Even though not due, I usually check manual (2006 and older BT's and 2005-older Dyna's) for primary chain play. Just a good measure.

ernstw and Noble MoMoney like this.

__________________________________________
When the going gets weird, the weird turn professional.... ~ Hunter S. Thompson~

R.I.P. Rubberdown. 1971-2012

"Your Jedi Mind tricks will not work on me...... ~Misinlink-2016~

2005 E.G. Classic
S&S 510 cams
Baisley Oil pump spring
CYCO tensioners
V&H Fuelpak
SE 3.5" pipes
K&N filter
Fueling lifters
S&S adj pushrods
Swingarm stabilizer

Last edited by Dave63; 04-19-2011 at 08:46 AM.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-31-2011, 10:54 PM
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Just thought I'd add a 'Best Practice' to your oil filter change info. Never install a dry filter. Pour enough oil into the center hole of the filter prior to installing. The paper element will absorb most of the oil so when you install the filter horizontally, spillage will be minimal, if any at all. And the most important factor, no dry start up. The filter fills almost immediately, thus filtration is immediate. A dry filter must soak the paper element before it passes oil effectively.

Anyway, just thought I'd share. A few extra seconds will prolong your engine components.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 08:06 PM
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Dave, thanks for the good info and pics to boot. Awesome help. Stuckinnj's input very good as I would not have thought of. Thanks.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-02-2011, 09:23 PM
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Thanks Dave!
Maybe the Forum Owners would buy you a real camera like Wachuko has for his posts.

ANd If I may ask ... How about a thread posting with pictures on changing brake pads. It looks like its about as tough as changing fluids.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-15-2011, 08:45 PM
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Thanks Dave I value your advice and instructive info.
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