Input on 103 build

[hog.77]

I have done a lot to my train since I bought it in June. D&D FatCat, SE Heavy Breather, PCIIIusb went on at 1k service and I have been pecking away at cosmetic stuff all summer. In a month or so I will put her away for the winter and plan to take her up to 103 while shes there.
I have done a lot of research to come to the following plan and would like some input from anyone who has done any of this or has these components.

• SE 255 cams (I want serious grunt and spend almost zero time at or above 5k)
• Having my cylinders bored (seems that the advantage is in having them honed to match your pistons exactly – vs big bore kit)
• Forged flat top stroker pistons ( I want to keep the compression lower because I live in Maine and anything over 91 octane is unlikely – get caught on the coast and even 91 is unlikely)
• Have stock heads ported/polished/milled(if needed) by BigBoyz
• SE Perf Vale Springs (may not need it with the .550 lift but why chance it for $150)

This is the major stuff. It looks like I can do it all with upgraded cyl studs, gaskets, manual comp releases, clutch spring, and adjustable pushrods for under $2000.

I know this is close to the stage two kit from Harley and I may do that if I didn’t think the cylinder bore would produce a better result. I can also beat the kit price by shopping around for cams and pistons.

My rides are mostly rural roads, 55mph and 3k rpm. I want low grunt for passing without tons of shifting etc.

This , along with my D & D, PCIII, SE HB, seems like a good combo to get me where I want to be while maintaining reliability. Anyone disagree?

I go back and forth on the cams with Wood TW6 and Andrews 54 but always end up back at the 255. It seems to get a weird rep but the torque curve seems to go straight up just before 3k which is what I want. The 54 and TW6 have that early rpm dip sometimes. Ive never ridden a bike with either so I can’t say.

[prodrag1320]

have your cylinders bored (95" or 103" SE cylinders are 88" cylinders bored at the factory)have a GOOD machine shop bore them(like us).i would also use cast pistons 21966-07,you dont need forged for your application,they can be set up tighter than forged(and their about 100 bucks cheaper)dont mess with the studs either,they are installed with interferance theads,and when you take them out,your actully pulling some threads out,stock studs are fine
kirby
vee twin racing

[hog.77]

prodrag - I sent you a PM about pricing.

Knowing that I am not really looking for top end gains or high dyno #s (who gives a crap) , do you see any reason to do more than a street port. It seems like it just keeps the torque available longer and stretches the torque curve. Is that the primary gain?
If so, and I usually shift around 4k-4.5k I dont know how I would justify it.

[prodrag1320]

on our high torque heads,we really dont increase the size of the ports as much as reconture them,concentrating on getting the volacity up at lower rpm ranges,alot of guys will port heads,enlarging the ports too much for the application their going to be used for,while they make big flow #`s,and may make more peak HP on a dyno,90% of riders wont be happy with them
kirby
vee twinracing

[hog.77]

Originally Posted by prodrag1320

on our high torque heads,we really dont increase the size of the ports as much as reconture them,concentrating on getting the volacity up at lower rpm ranges,alot of guys will port heads,enlarging the ports too much for the application their going to be used for,while they make big flow #`s,and may make more peak HP on a dyno,90% of riders wont be happy with them
kirby
vee twinracing

So would this would be stage 1?

[prodrag1320]

yes it would be our stage I package
kirby
vee twin racing