Screamin Eagle Race Tuner question re: AFR at higher elevations

[Zappa]

Hello everyone. First post, and I have a question about the air/fuel ratio (AFR) on my 2006 Street Bob.

I bought the bike from a guy in Georgia who had the race tuner installed. It has a Kuryakyn hypercharger and V/H short shot pipes. It is my understanding that the previous owner only lowered the idle speed and did not mess with the AFR. I live in a higher elevation area (northern Rockies) and a fair amount of my riding occurs at elevations up to 10k feet.

Should I be messing with the AFR, given these circumstances? This is my first experience with a fuel-injected bike, so I'm kind of clueless. I talked to a tech at one of the local custom bike shops and he wanted me to just bring it in and have him tune the bike on the dyno. This will cost me about $350, and I'd like to avoid it if I can (with the economy the way it is, I'm lucky just to have been able to buy the dang bike). Will the bike automatically adjust itself? Should I just ride it for awhile and see I notice any issues first before I have it tuned?

Does anybody know the ratio numbers that I should be running? I tried to find my answers using the search function, but couldn't find what I was looking for. If anybody knows a link or any info on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I look forward to talking with all of you and will post pics soon. Thanks! :

[TheBoss34]

Originally Posted by Zappa

Hello everyone. First post, and I have a question about the air/fuel ratio (AFR) on my 2006 Street Bob.

I bought the bike from a guy in Georgia who had the race tuner installed. It has a Kuryakyn hypercharger and V/H short shot pipes. It is my understanding that the previous owner only lowered the idle speed and did not mess with the AFR. I live in a higher elevation area (northern Rockies) and a fair amount of my riding occurs at elevations up to 10k feet.

Should I be messing with the AFR, given these circumstances? This is my first experience with a fuel-injected bike, so I'm kind of clueless. I talked to a tech at one of the local custom bike shops and he wanted me to just bring it in and have him tune the bike on the dyno. This will cost me about $350, and I'd like to avoid it if I can (with the economy the way it is, I'm lucky just to have been able to buy the dang bike). Will the bike automatically adjust itself? Should I just ride it for awhile and see I notice any issues first before I have it tuned?

Does anybody know the ratio numbers that I should be running? I tried to find my answers using the search function, but couldn't find what I was looking for. If anybody knows a link or any info on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I look forward to talking with all of you and will post pics soon. Thanks! :

Your technical question if for the senior members of this forum such as Dave63 and so on. I love SCREAMIN' EAGLE - Post your pictures!

[Kainam]

Originally Posted by Zappa

Will the bike automatically adjust itself?

Nope, not without O2 sensors it won't.

Originally Posted by Zappa

Should I just ride it for awhile and see I notice any issues first before I have it tuned?

Yup.

Originally Posted by Zappa

Does anybody know the ratio numbers that I should be running?

13.2:1 give or take for air cooled Harleys....

[Zappa]

^^^ Thanks a lot guys.

Pics soon Bossman...

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Zappa

Hello everyone. First post, and I have a question about the air/fuel ratio (AFR) on my 2006 Street Bob.

I bought the bike from a guy in Georgia who had the race tuner installed. It has a Kuryakyn hypercharger and V/H short shot pipes. It is my understanding that the previous owner only lowered the idle speed and did not mess with the AFR. I live in a higher elevation area (northern Rockies) and a fair amount of my riding occurs at elevations up to 10k feet.

Should I be messing with the AFR, given these circumstances? This is my first experience with a fuel-injected bike, so I'm kind of clueless. I talked to a tech at one of the local custom bike shops and he wanted me to just bring it in and have him tune the bike on the dyno. This will cost me about $350, and I'd like to avoid it if I can (with the economy the way it is, I'm lucky just to have been able to buy the dang bike). Will the bike automatically adjust itself? Should I just ride it for awhile and see I notice any issues first before I have it tuned?

Does anybody know the ratio numbers that I should be running? I tried to find my answers using the search function, but couldn't find what I was looking for. If anybody knows a link or any info on this it would be greatly appreciated.

I look forward to talking with all of you and will post pics soon. Thanks! :

I can't comment on your exact setup with any authority, but I have an XL883 with a Stage I intake, dealer remap, and Screaming Eagle mufflers. My altitude ranges from 700' to just under 7K'. The bike runs great at any elevation and any temperature. It starts on the first bump, hot, warm, or cold.

You could not give me a bike that wasn't fuel injected.

Check with the company that made the tuner module. Most of them publish detailed charts for how they should be set up with various other components. Their tech support unit should be able to help you over the phone too.

My experience is that modern fuel injection systems are very adaptive to altitude and temperature, much more so than carbureted engines.

Almost every time that I go to Mt. Mitchell (6800') I see one or two carbureted bikes that have a tough time starting. the fuel injected machine just fire up and go.

I would not waste my money on a dyno tune. I'm not trying to enrich the local dealer or squeeze the last 1/4 hp out of my engine. Check your plugs to see if the mix is too rich or too lean. My guess is that is that it is pretty good without you having to do anything.

[Kainam]

Originally Posted by Pete

You could not give me a bike that wasn't fuel injected.

Send em to me.

[Dave63]

Originally Posted by Kainam

Send em to me.

Ditto.....

[Zappa]

Originally Posted by Dave63

Ditto.....

What's your take on this, Dave? Thanks in advance!

[Dave63]

You have a programable fuel management system. It's not a learning ECU. This means it runs at what it's told to, and doesn't have a mind of its own.

Despite the thought process that a Dyno run is to obtain the last 1/4 hp out of an engine, when used in conjunction with a 2 gas analyzer, it also tells you if you're running lean, and exactly where. Without it, one's only guessing at how and where their enegine is running rich, lean or making power.

It's not just for breakfast any more.....

Yes, barometric changes are accounted for and mildly adapted to, but your a/f mixture isn't adjusted more then the MAP that's been loaded into your ECU, and careful inspection of spark plug color should be looked at, and adjusted accordingly.

A dyno run with a minimum 2 gas analyzer is strongly suggested, IMHO.

[Zappa]

^^^ Thanks!