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Old 10-23-2009, 02:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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whining from 93 springer

hi all im pretty new here.a bud of mine has a 93 springer it has a whining sound all the time for about 2 months,we rode last week end and it has now started to tic we pulled rocker boxes off and every thing looks fine any help would be appreciated.cant really tell where the noise is from it sounds like bottom but its hard to tell.no running problems.. thanks again
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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wow no one has run into this before
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry....didn't see this earlier.

Sure have.

Is the whining coming from the right side of the engine, and getting louder, and increases with the RPMs (up and down with the engine speed)???

If so, he has an inner cam bearing going south. HD used an INA bearing from 1991 to 1999 in the Evo engines, that have half the rollers as the recommended Torrington B-138 bearing. Some engineer thought it looked better on paper so they went with it, despite no failures using the same design in the Shovelhead engine.

If let go, eventually, it whipes the inner cam bearing journal, and then will fail completely, causing other issues, including oil pump failure and crap blocking the tappet oil screen, eventually taking an entire engine out due to oil starvation.

Dismantle and inspect.... HD also recommends replacement of Tappets at 25K now, and 1993 has the thinner, wimpy axles for the rollers, (until 1996) so you want new lifters as well. (1991-1995 were some lame valve train years.....I own a 1995.)

INA bearing:


Torrington B-138 bearing: ($8.00 at JPCycle)
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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come to think of it I do hear some Whining......
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Old 10-23-2009, 06:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's me...............my Man-gina hurts.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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thanks dave youre a hero.do we need stock or upgrade.can you give me a list of stuff i may need.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplemanrt View Post
thanks dave youre a hero.do we need stock or upgrade.can you give me a list of stuff i may need.
I love the Andrews EV27 cam.

4-tappets. Make sure if you get HD tappets, they say "B" on the end of the part number. Those are the updated lifters with heavier axles.

Adjustable pushrods. Stocks are nonadjustable and unless you wanna yank rocker boxes aprat, the adjustables are about $89. I prefer moly SE-EZ-Adjustables, (Screaming Eagle) over aluminum ones. Aluminum can resonate and make noise. Not all, but if not tapered, they hit the stock pushrods tubes and require you to trim about 1/2" off them.

2- Tappet block gaskets.

Cam cover gasket.

Pushrod O-rings.

Torrington B-138 inner cam bearing.

Inner cam Bearing removal tool.

Bearing installer tool is your old cam. I kid you not.

Go t the "Engine" section and look at the stikcies or search for the cam update that I did.


Contact North Shore Motorcycles and they have a kit, (Chris Lacey turned me on to them) for $275 shipped for everything but the tools to do the job.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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thanks dave i will putting bike back together this week end,got bearin puller from mac tools,putting in a ev27 cam verything you told me to.ill let you know how it works...........
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplemanrt View Post
thanks dave i will putting bike back together this week end,got bearin puller from mac tools,putting in a ev27 cam verything you told me to.ill let you know how it works...........
Here's a trick for adjusting the pushrods:

Put in the rear tappet block first, with the tappets. Look in the hole for the front tappet block, and adjust the rear cylinder lobes, so BOTH are at the low spot, whenre the tappest will ride. (Lowest point. Easy with the EV27)

Adjust BOTH rear cylinder valves/pushrods. Now wait 15 minutes, or until you can spin both pushrods with your fingers.

Then, turn the cam until the front cylinder lobes are on the low spots. After installing the front tappet block and tappets, adjust BOTH front pushrods.

Make sure to leave about 15 minutes in between adjusting the rear, before moving the cam, to adjust the front. The tappets need to bleed down, if not, you'll bend valves or pushrods.

Same goes for after adjusting the front cylinder.....
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Following my instructions will likely lead to death, mental retardation and/or bodily injury, consistant with eating lead-based paint chips, and by doing so, will release me, my family and my dog from any legal action(s) for listening to anything I recommended.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks again dave were putting back together today wish me luck lol
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