Neutral Position Problems

[BlacklineGI]

So I just brought my new 2012 HD Blackline home today and I am having some issues with getting the bike into neutral. Now before anyone throws and novice advice at me please be aware that this isn't my first bike. I've been riding for about 11 years now and this is my third bike, and I am also a mechanic for a living. The problem is when I come to a stop I down shift to first as always and then try to get that mid up shift into the neutral position but it always jumps to second gear. The only way I can get the bike into neutral is to shut it off and then I am able to shift it to neutral. In pretty sure I just need to somehow make an adjustment on the clutch cable some how but unlike all of my previous bikes which were both yamahas, there is no tension screw located on the clutch lever assembly. So I'm guessing the adjustment should be made at the point at which the cable enters the transmission? Please, any help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. It's killing me that my brand new blackline is having this issue. I don't live far from the dealer and I only have the bike for the weekend and then I'll be taking it back on Monday to have all my accessories installed that have been on order. What can I do in the meantime to maybe solve this issue myself. Also, the drive line seems to feel a little rough compared to what I'm used to in my metric bikes. Is this something common among Harley's? I think that I may be actually just shifting into gears sooner than necessary being that I haven't had my after market exhaust installed yet. In the past on my other bikes I always used the sound of my exhaust as a cue as to when I needed to shift into a higher gear. Please help me out here my fellow Harley Davidson veterans.


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[lakeforktx]

When I first got my 2012 it was real tuff to find N...after your 1ooo mile service swich to redline or mobil 1 and ajust your clutch at 1000 miles and it will get much better?

[lakeforktx]

You my need to ajust your self ajusting primary chain tensioner...will post how to do that when I get home, to much typeing for cell phone...

[SCHMIDTYS]

Try taking the free play out of the clutch handle. The adjuster is inside the cable boot mid way down the cable. Try to get 1/16" play at the clutch perch. If that doesn't do the trick then remove the derby cover and adjust the clutch itself.
Oh yes, do yourself a favor and buy a Harley Service Manual. You're a mechanic so you should know how handy the service manuals are.

[Leo the 3rd]

Ok, this may be odd, but I've found it tougher to get my 2012 Deluxe into Neutral when it's near the top or bottom (just imagine this sitting on the bike and while clutch is engaged you can roll back and forth to a stopping point). But if I move it slight forward or back, then it easily slips into Neutral. Weird, but it's something I've gotten to work 99% of the time on my Deluxe when I need to shift it into Neutral. Good luck.

[Mongo44]

Copied and pasted from your other thread - "Neutral is a Pain" - on this:

My bike does the same thing, but it's a '95 Heritage with an 80" Evo (18K miles).

I've heard it suggested to adjust compensator sprocket and clutch and make sure your primary chain is properly adjusted. Don't know if this is true, but worth consideration.

I recently had an issue where I had to go into the primary. My tensioner shoe mounting plate bolts had come loose (one back out all the way). Replaced the shoe with an automatic version, put it all back together.

While I didn't adjust the comp or clutch, I noticed my shifting to be much easier. I also noticed it easier to get it into neurtral without as much fuss.

When you're rolling to a stop, modulate your clutch and try getting it into neutral when you are still rolling, but just about to stop. I can get mine into neutral every time.

However, I'd like to suggest that you leave your bike in gear if you're at a light or stop sign. Putting it in neutral, taking your hands off the bars, etc, is about as rookie a move as you can make. Some may disagree, but while sitting there, I want my bike in gear and ready to roll in case some rump gerbil wants to rearend me, etc. The point is, I can get the heck out of the way. If it's in neutral, well, good luck...

[chasarms]

Originally Posted by Mongo44

. . . I recently had an issue where I had to go into the primary. My tensioner shoe mounting plate bolts had come loose (one back out all the way). Replaced the shoe with an automatic version, put it all back together.

While I didn't adjust the comp or clutch, I noticed my shifting to be much easier. I also noticed it easier to get it into neurtral without as much fuss. . .

I was recently in my primary as well. After re-assembling the drive, I set the chain tension at the very minimum flex spec. (maybe even very slightly less than that) It made the bike shift noticeably cleaner, and neutral is an easy find now.

[Mongo44]

Originally Posted by chasarms

I was recently in my primary as well. After re-assembling the drive, I set the chain tension at the very minimum flex spec. (maybe even very slightly less than that) It made the bike shift noticeably cleaner, and neutral is an easy find now.

[dodah]

Originally Posted by Mongo44

Copied and pasted from your other thread - "Neutral is a Pain" - on this:

My bike does the same thing, but it's a '95 Heritage with an 80" Evo (18K miles).

93 Heritage EVO and identical. Never thought it was a problem, just a quirk I dealt with. Has to be "free" to put it in neutral, if I'm locked against the last gear it won't slip to N. Rock a little, take the pressure off and bingo.

[Mongo44]

That works, too, Dodah.