removing bearing cups ..?

[Redrooster66]

Can anyone shed some light on how to remove the bearing cups from the fork stem? I rented a tool from a local supply huse but it's too long and seems to be made for a larger neck. I can't get these things out! I'm thinking maybe I will try a dremel with a metal saw blade but I am hoping there is a better way. .. Any suggestions?

Oh, I have a 2007 XL1200C. ...

[SCHMIDTYS]

If you have a wire welder lay some beads around the inside of the bearing cup, that'll shrink them enough to pull them out easy.

Also you can drive them out with a pry bar and BFH.

Putting the new ones in, stick them in your freezer for a couple hours and they'll shrink enough to go in easy. Put the cups in a baggy in the freezer so they don't frost up.

[FMB42]

Hey Redrooster66,

Did you ever manage to "get your rear wheel off"?

[Redrooster66]

Originally Posted by FMB42

Hey Redrooster66,

Did you ever manage to "get your rear wheel off"?

Hi. .. Yes I was able to pound the axle out of the rear wheel. It was in there good!! .... Now I need to get these bearing cups out.

[FMB42]

That's good news about your axle.

I can't recommend cutting into the cups due to the "step" in the neck (also keep in mind these races are hardened, and as such, a proper cutting wheel or stone would be needed). Schmidty's idea sounds better imo.

Otherwise, You might also try soaking the cups with penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench, etc) for awhile followed by carefully knocking the cups out with a removal tool. Heating the neck with your lady's hair dryer for a 2-3 minutes can sometimes help. Just work "fast" and careful so that the cups don't have time to soak up the heat (you can try to keep the cups cool with some ice in a plastic bag).

Note: a proper bearing tool is, of course, the best thing to use when it comes to removing and seating bearing cups. Lacking that, try knocking the cups out with a brass punch. Knock them out just a hair at a time starting with the "12 O'clock" position, followed by a just hair at "6 O'clock," followed by a hair at "9 O'clock, and then at "3 O'clock" (repeat this sequence as needed).


Btw, imo the only thing worse than tight fitting bearing cups are cups that fit loose...

[Redrooster66]

I tried the tool but the ends of the stem on the Sporty are wide and the tool doesn't work. I was able to get the top cup out buy cutting a "V" shape into the cup with a dremel. It popped right out after that. The bottom cup is a different story!! I have tried cutting it (actually cut into the neck in a couple of spots by mistake) and I am so fed up right now!! .... I'm going to try grinding the end of a small pry bar and see if I can get it to catch the lip of the cup. .... Very fustrating!

[FMB42]

I'd "step away from it" for just a bit at this point RR.

Meanwhile, (if the modified pry bar doesn't work) consider buying a "cheap" 10 inch long 1/2 or 5/8 inch flat cold chisel that you can modify by grinding the point flat (you will also want to grind a "curve" on one side that matches the inner radius of the steering head tube). Just be sure to quench it repeatably in water while you're grinding it. Its probably going to take a few heavy blows with a 2 pound sledge in order to "start" this frozen cup in to moving. You can hold the chisel with heavy pliers so that you don't smash your hand or fingers while you hammer the chisel.

Schmidty's idea is sounding pretty good right about now...

Another option would be to use an air impact hammer with an extended bit (~ $15 at Harbor Freight).

Hang in there, you'll get it.

[secoleman57]

I've got a tool box of nothing but Bronze round stock of various diameters bought specifically over the years for pounding out bearings, motor shafts etc.

I like it because it's softer than the metals you are working on and you can pound the crap out of it and not hurt anything. When I mushroom a tip I simply hacksaw it off, when it gets to short I just buy another.