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Old 07-12-2010, 10:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Just replaced rear tire on 06 FLHX

I have a 2006 FLHX that I just replaced the rear tire on. Bought the bike new, installed 11" Progressive shocks when I purchased the bike. No problems with suspension for over 23,000 miles.

New tire put on this past Saturday, left the shop that did the tire change, two things different about the bike.

1. My rear brake pedal now goes to the floor and requires pumping to apply pressure.

2. Now rear tire bottoms out on the fender when riding two up on little bumps.

Neither of these problems before tire change.

For number one I am thinking rear brake need bled. Not sure about the difference in suspension travel.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you switch tire styles, some have a different side wall height?

Brakes could need to be bled, is it happening all the time? Is could have just been the pistons working back out if they needed to be compressed to pull the wheel.
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Old 07-12-2010, 02:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks ServiceGuy,

Tire, Same brand same size, Dunlop.

Brake pedal happens all the time. I thought the same thing regarding the pistons, I rode it all day yesterday and have been unable to get the pressure built back up.
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Brakes and Tires

First, There is no valid reason for the rear brake to be spongy now, if it wasn't before. 2nd,if the new tire replacement is the same, could it be that the old tire was worn flat and the difference in the new one causes it to rub?
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I had a similar situation regarding the rear brakes after tire replacement. I ended up rebuilding the rear master cylinder to correct the issue. I had compressed the caliper piston at the time of wheel removal and replaced the rear pads prior to reinstalling the new tire & wheel assy. No rear brake........tried (unsucessfully) multiple times with vac pump bleed method and was unable to get pressure. I posted a help thread and got no help from our fellow members thru that. Rebuilding corrected the concern. Just my take on the brake issue........
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Old 07-13-2010, 03:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiltmaster View Post
I have a 2006 FLHX that I just replaced the rear tire on. Bought the bike new, installed 11" Progressive shocks when I purchased the bike. No problems with suspension for over 23,000 miles.

New tire put on this past Saturday, left the shop that did the tire change, two things different about the bike.

1. My rear brake pedal now goes to the floor and requires pumping to apply pressure.

2. Now rear tire bottoms out on the fender when riding two up on little bumps.

Neither of these problems before tire change.

For number one I am thinking rear brake need bled. Not sure about the difference in suspension travel.

Thoughts?

1.) Bleed the rear brake.

2.) If the rear tire is wider (the same size can be wider if a different MFGer) it may be scraping the side of the inside of the fender rail somewhere. If it's bottoming out on the underside of the rear fender, at the top, then something is wrong, or the suspension setting was changed...

The new tire would have to be considerable taller to now bottom out on the top of the rear fender, inside.
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Old 07-14-2010, 04:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Try cleaning the caliper. Sometimes the caliper pistons get a small bildup of brake dust on them and it makes the pistons stick.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:15 AM   #8 (permalink)
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When changing the tire the operator placed the wheel disc side up on the wheel change machine and, while using the tire levers to remove/replace the tire, has pushed down on the brake disk and bent it laterally. When mounted back on your bike the disk now will push the pads back as you ride causing the soft pedal and requiring pumping to get the pads back to the disk. Ride a few feet further and the pads are once again pushed back.

No amount of bleeding will help. You need a new disk. DO NOT try to straighten the disk unless using specialist equipment. Remember that with a new disk you should also fit new pads and bolts tightened to the correct torque. Dealer should be hauled over the coals for releasing a bike which is clearly not roadworthy.
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Old 07-14-2010, 09:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Tire Change

One thing to consider is that the tire might be the same brand but could be a different style. I have the flhx as well and had HD replace the tire after one hell of a burnout. The tire they used was same make, same "size" according to them. After the service manager road the bike they took the tire off and check it was 3/4" difference from the other style NEW tire. The brakes, I am not a pro but there is no reason for your brakes to be spongy unless they forced the piston and blew a seal. Bleeding them may be a tempary fix. When working on your brakes alway losen the master cycinder top incase of pressure, just remember brake fluid will eat your paint fast and is really bad for your skin. The brake disc being bent is a very coming thing when people take tire and rim to a car tire shop. New tires require a soft touch. Your Disc being warped, your brakes should still not feel spongy. This is just my opinion of course, when you do get brake pressure and get the rear brake to work does the back of the but seem to wobble or travel? This one sign of a warped disc. Also are your shocks ajustable? They may move your set point, which will allow more travel? Good Luck
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Old 07-14-2010, 10:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Update

You guys are awesome. Thanks for the many replies.

I took the bike back to the shop that installed the tire. They can see where the tire is hitting the fender but have no answer. They put on the same size Dunlop (MU85-16) that they took off. I think Dave and Rigpiggy said even the same tire can be slightly different. I will speak to them about that. They also adjusted the shock to the highest setting.

The brake issue, they said my rotor was warped. This I find interesting since I had no problems pre tire change. I am getting a new rotor put on and see if this fixes the problem.

I get it back tomorrow. Will need to test it hard the next two weeks as we have our annual 2 week road trip coming up and would hate to be loaded down only to have to walk the bike over every bump in the road for 4,000 miles
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