Tuning SS Carb w/Hi-4 Crane electronic ignition

[Ihrugby]

1991 Evo ElectraGlide Classic FLHTC was setup with VOES grounded and HI-4 set to "Race Only" setting on Ignition and ran good.....Rebuilt Top end new studs polished valves & pistons w/new rings (was getting Oil blowout of rear cylinder and replaced Hydrolic Lifters cause they were starting to scar cam lobes and sanded out scatches.
I read that most of your riding is at lower rpm range and the VOES should be hooked-up and running with the other setting on the Crane HI-4 or this would cause excessive engine wear than without using the Voes.
Problem is when setup included VOES it doesn't seem to run as good as before with the other setup or almost too rich and bogges down. Does the "Race Only" setting and 35 degrees BTDC advance setting just run better than the normal 25 degree setting with the VOES? It's Not high compression and I'm running Orginal size pistons with only 2 colors up from Orginal cams. ...TIA

[Ihrugby]

I've seen on other forums that some guys run the HI-4 Crane Ignition on "Race Only" without the VOES switch or grounded so it uses the "Race Only" values on the ignition curves through all rpms.
Then I've seen some guys run the "Race Only" setting with the VOES operational setup saying their bikes run better under this configuration........
Third there are Ones who just run it like they are supposed too, that would be the opposite switch setting on the HI-4 crane ignition with the VOES switch hooked up in a normal setup.
My question is which runs better and puts the least wear and tear on your EVO engine?..........TIA Anyone with experience on setting these up?.......

[blackbagger]

What cam are you using? The carb may not be jetted correctly for idle, slow speed jetting, high speed jetting, and/or the VOES needs adjustment. The HI-4 should not be used in RACE ONLY for stock bikes and it should not be grounded.

Remember reformulated gasolines need richer jetting.

Try this for the VOES:
VOES CALIBRATION (specific to Evo engine models only)
The VOES has a vacuum line that connects it to the carburetor. Remove the switch from the bracket and the vacuum line from the carb. Connect a vacuum pump to the fitting on the switch. Hold the switch close to your ear and squeeze the vacuum pump slowly. When you hear the switch “click”, stop squeezing and look at the gauge to see how many inches of vacuum it took to open the switch. It should be between 3.5 and 4.5 inches of vacuum.

On the back of the switch you will see a rubberized coating over the calibration screw. You need to remove all of the coating to access the calibration screw. Use a toothpick, small blunt punch, or a jeweler's screwdriver to remove the coating. Be careful not to gouge the threads of the switch as it is made of plastic and can be damaged easily. Calibration is a means of turning the screw until the desired reading is accomplished.

We want the switch to open at 6 to 8 inches of vacuum (for high compression pistons (10:1 or more)). If for some reason you cannot hear the switch click, connect a DVOM to the leads of the switch specified in the owner's manual and follow the instructions. During calibration, it is imperative that you hold your thumb over the portion of the switch that houses the screw. After calibration is complete, fill the cavity with 3M-weatherstripping or RTV silicone. Let the switch cure then reinstall.
(from HemiDesign Heads)

Do not use Race Only.