Help accessing data port for CEL codes?? I did my homework... - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Help accessing data port for CEL codes?? I did my homework...

I got two attachments below that are relevant.

I have gotten intermittent check engine lights over the last few weeks on my buell. I've only owned the bike for these few weeks and it hasnt left me stranded or acted up much but on a handful of occasions it has had a bad idle on startup or a check engine light that would come on, then go off while riding, but come back on again (????). So i decided to access the engine codes
2008 xb12r with race ecm, jardine exhaust.

So my research shows me these bikes come stock with a diagnostic port that can be accessed either under the seat or under the front fairing. I am looking for a 4 port, square diagnostic plug that isn't attached to anything. I cannot find any such plug, however, i did find a 4 port plug under my seat that had the ports inline, instead of square. Compare design A to Design B below to see what I am talking about.

Design A
1 2 3 4

Design B
1 2
3 4

I left that plug alone since I could not confirm what it was and didnt want to risk shorting out something important. I also checked under the fairing and couldn't find any unconnected ports. I referenced a wire diagram found in the 2009 xb owners manual. See attachment below, it shows a data port (I CIRCLED IT IN BLACK IN THE BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER). If this is the same one I found under my seat, which color wires am I shorting out? Because when I reference the 2008 electrical diagnostic manual (SEE ATTACHMENT BELOW) it shows a diagnostic plug set up like Design B, not the Design A plug that I found under my seat.

I am totally lost and have searched every forum on the net and have not gotten any closer to retrieving the codes. When I key on the CEL lights up for a few seconds, then goes off, then stays off. I can start the engine and idle/run it 98% of the time with no CEL coming on but a couple times the idle shot up real high and bounced up and down and sputtered and acted like it was unhappy and the CEL came on.

Last edited by toastedroach420; 03-31-2019 at 10:21 AM.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2019, 11:53 PM
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Here is the Diagnostics connector under the fairing of my Firebolt.

Also, we ask that you do not post pages from the H-D service manuals. Please remove those images or I can do it for you.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 07:19 AM
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The data port is the square one williegoat referenced.
A couple things to try: Hold the trip button in while turning the ignition on, diagnostics should appear in the odometer. You can jump two pins in the data port and stored codes should flash in the speedo, count and record the flashes until they repeat. FYI this procedure is provided in the electrical manual.
Also you can try cleaning out the IAC port and pintle with carb spay or brake clean. The IAC affects the idle circuit.

Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMIDTY View Post
The data port is the square one williegoat referenced.
A couple things to try: Hold the trip button in while turning the ignition on, diagnostics should appear in the odometer. You can jump two pins in the data port and stored codes should flash in the speedo, count and record the flashes until they repeat. FYI this procedure is provided in the electrical manual.
Also you can try cleaning out the IAC port and pintle with carb spay or brake clean. The IAC affects the idle circuit.
I will have to shoot a photo of my fairing because I cannot see that plug in that photo. Also, I have the airbox cover off right now (the outer shell), this rubber round boot that sits on top of the TB, does this just pull straight off the TB with the plastic air filter shelf attached or do I have to remove anything underneath before pulling up? I can't see the IAC, just straight down into the TB butterfly at this point in time.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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So according to my electrical diagram (now taken down), the 4 port connector under the seat is a diagnostic plug. I referenced the owner's manual for the steps to access the codes. It says to "Install diagnostic test wire across Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 as shown below."
The picture below shows the square plug I referenced before (design B), and the colors of each wire in each hole. The wires to be shorted are the LGRN/R and the BK/W, which I assume to be light green with a red stripe, and black with a white stripe.
Funny thing is, the electrical diagram also shows a 4 connector plug with those same wires in it, but arranged in the inline fashion I referenced above (design A).

I'm thinking I will look at my plug under the seat and see if the colored wires match the owners manual. If so, would it be safe to give it a try?
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:41 AM
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1st of all I'm assuming your engine is EFI not carbed.
Follow the wire harnesses that connect to the throttle body, should be an IAT and a IAC plus the injector wires. The IAC plugs into the IAC actuator, that's the unit you're looking for. With the AC removed you can look right into the throttle body throat (venturii), the hole in the throat is the IAC pintle port, that's where ya spray the cleaner. Then cycle the ignition a few times until the spray runs clear and clean.
As a side note: All EFI engines have IACs (intake air control) and they tend to get dirty from carbon buildup and need occasional cleaning so the pintle seats properly in the port seat. If the pintle doesn't seat tightly air can leak past the port and cause erratic idle ! I also clean those suckers in my car and truck every spring ... pretty soon now!

Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toastedroach420 View Post
So according to my electrical diagram (now taken down), the 4 port connector under the seat is a diagnostic plug. I referenced the owner's manual for the steps to access the codes. It says to "Install diagnostic test wire across Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 as shown below."
The picture below shows the square plug I referenced before (design B), and the colors of each wire in each hole. The wires to be shorted are the LGRN/R and the BK/W, which I assume to be light green with a red stripe, and black with a white stripe.
Funny thing is, the electrical diagram also shows a 4 connector plug with those same wires in it, but arranged in the inline fashion I referenced above (design A).

I'm thinking I will look at my plug under the seat and see if the colored wires match the owners manual. If so, would it be safe to give it a try?
That's what I would do. Those are the jumpers I referred to before. Then ya gotta count the flashes, they should be in groups of four then repeat.

Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:52 AM
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THEN when ya get the code or codes you can look it / them up in the electrical section, or better yet in your electrical diagnostic manual. Let us know what the codes are cause I've got Buell manuals at my shop and the Buell cartridge for my Scanalyzer.

Disclaimer : Don't believe anything I say unless you are absolutely sure that I know what I'm talking about .
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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************UPDATE*************

I went and checked that plug under the seat. colors dont match. I'm gonna post it up here and hopefully someone can identify what it is unplugged from.

The good news is, I found the diagnostic plug tucked WAYYYYYY up in the nose. I found it by catching a glimpse of that green/Red wire and tracing it up behind the gauges. I used a spade connector to short the pins and got Code 16, the only engine code.

Code 16 is battery voltage. Thing is, the battery was replaced by last owner, I confirmed this yesterday by looking at it, brand new. I also did a voltage test on it idling and with full accessories, got 14.1V, revved it up and down and it stayed true to 14.1V. I also checked the tightness of the ground strap. This is all BEFORE I knew what the code was. Is there a way to erase this code and see if it returns? Why would the CEL come on for battery voltage randomly if it checks out ok?

See pics attached
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMIDTY View Post
1st of all I'm assuming your engine is EFI not carbed.
Follow the wire harnesses that connect to the throttle body, should be an IAT and a IAC plus the injector wires. The IAC plugs into the IAC actuator, that's the unit you're looking for. With the AC removed you can look right into the throttle body throat (venturii), the hole in the throat is the IAC pintle port, that's where ya spray the cleaner. Then cycle the ignition a few times until the spray runs clear and clean.
As a side note: All EFI engines have IACs (intake air control) and they tend to get dirty from carbon buildup and need occasional cleaning so the pintle seats properly in the port seat. If the pintle doesn't seat tightly air can leak past the port and cause erratic idle ! I also clean those suckers in my car and truck every spring ... pretty soon now!
Ok cool thanks, see where I am at above, does that plastic air filter tray just lift straight off the frame once I undo the 4 T27 bolts from it? It seems like the rubber boot is holding it to the EFI throat
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