How to remove the primary cover off your Sportster - Page 2 - Harley Davidson Forums: Harley Davidson Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-01-2014, 01:31 PM
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-02-2014, 07:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! Big help and very informative! I did hit a snag though.
When I reassembled everything the clutch ball and ramp assembly set a bit deeper and the second lock-nut wont make contact now, any ideas?
Can you explain this a little more in depth? Maybe some pictures? Do you mean the lock nut on the clutch cable? There is no lock not on the primary side... Unless your talking about a pre-2004 Sportster in which case it could be different than mine.



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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-13-2015, 10:29 AM
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It's ironic this thread is a sticky as I signed up to the forums specifically to get some mechanical advice involving this area.

I recently removed my primary cover to replace the gasket and clutch cable seal. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but my limits do know bounds indeed. After a bunch of cussing and a little stripping of bolt heads I got everything put back together only to discover that the bike wouldn't go into gear. It is harder to roll when shifted into gear, but it definitely isn't fully engaging. I re-drained the fluid and pulled everything apart only to see no obvious problem. I'm sure it's something simple but I'm even simpler. Any advice?

Thanks,
Max

Last edited by MaximumFinishes; 03-13-2015 at 12:12 PM.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 06:15 PM
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here you go

Remove the left side footpeg. See the Footpeg topic for more information.

Removal


Set an appropriate oil drain pan under the transmission oil drain plug at the rear of the primary cover. Remove the transmission oil drain plug with a 5/8 in socket to drain it.


The transmission oil drain plug is magnetic. Inspect the magnet for any metal pick up. Clean off the drain plug and discard its old O-ring.




Remove the shift lever bolt with a 1/4 in. Allen.


Remove the shift lever and rubber washer.


Wipe down the area around the clutch inspection cover to prevent debris from getting inside the primary cover.


Slide the rubber boot down the clutch cable. Turn the clutch cable adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench. Hold the adjuster in place and loosen the locknut against it with a 9/16 inch wrench. Loosen the clutch cable until there is plenty of slack.


Remove the six clutch inspection cover screws with a T-27 torx socket.


Loosen the primary drive chain adjuster locknut with 7/8 in wrench.


Take off the clutch inspection cover. Do not disturb the seal ring on the primary cover unless it needs replacement.


Remove the spring and lock plate from the clutch adjuster.


Remove the clutch cable.


Turn the adjusting screw clockwise, with a flat blade screwdriver, to remove the ramp assembly.

Note: The ramp assembly is held together with a retaining ring. It is comprised of an inner and outer ramp, and three ball bearings. It has a coupling to hold the clutch cable and a nut to secure it to the adjusting screw.


Remove the clutch cable fitting and O-ring from the case with a wrench. Discard the O-ring.


Loosen the sixteen case cover screws and washers in a criss-cross pattern with a 3/16 in. Allen and remove them. Note the position of the screws for assembly.


Remove the primary cover. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the cover off if needed.


Inspect the shift shaft oil seal for wear and damage.


Remove the gasket and discard.


Remove the two dowel pins from both ends of the case.

Primary Chain Adjuster


Remove the primary chain adjuster locknut under the case with a 7/8 in. wrench. Hold the adjuster screw with a 1/4 in. Allen if necessary.


Remove the primary chain adjuster assembly by unthreading the adjuster screw.


Slide the shoe off and inspect it for excessive wear or damage. Replace the shoe if needed.

To remove the primary drive and clutch see the Primary Drive and Clutch topic for more information.

Installation
Primary Chain Adjuster


Slide the open end of the shoe onto the primary chain adjuster slot.


Install the primary chain adjuster screw into the case with the open end of the assembly facing out. Thread the screw all the way into the case. The primary chain may need to be lifted out of the way to insert the adjuster in place.


Install the locknut onto the adjuster screw. Hold the adjuster screw with a 1/4 in. Allen and screw on the nut with a with a 7/8 in. wrench. Do not tighten.

Primary Case Cover

Clean the mating surfaces and remove any gasket residue.


Install the two dowel pins into both ends of the case.


Install a new primary case gasket.


Install a new shifter shaft oil seal into the case cover if needed.


Install the primary case cover.


Primary cover tightening sequence.


Install the sixteen case cover screws and washers in sequence with a 3/16 in. Allen and tighten to specification.

(Primary Case Cover Screw Torque: 100 - 120 in-lbs or 11.3 - 13.5 N-m)


Install the clutch cable and a new O-ring into the primary case with a wrench. The cable end should be visible inside the case. Tighten the clutch fitting to specification.

(Clutch Cable Fitting Torque: 30 - 60 in-lbs or 4.1 - 6.8 N-m)


Insert a new O-ring on the transmission drain plug. Install and tighten the plug to specification with a 5/8 in socket.

(Transmission Oil Drain Plug Torque: 14 - 30 lb-ft or 19.0 - 40.7 N-m)

Fill the transmission with Harley-Davidson Sport Trans Fluid. See the Transmission Oil topic for more information


The retaining ring side of the ramp assembly should face inward and the coupling should point forward. Align the upper tab on the ramp assembly with the case cover slot. Install the ramp assembly with the nut.


Thread the nut onto the adjusting screw. Tighten the adjusting screw counterclockwise until resistance is met, then back off the screw a 1/4 of a turn.


Install the spring and lock plate onto the ramp.


Install the clutch cable end onto the ramp coupling.


Install the clutch inspection cover. Do not disturb the seal ring on the primary cover unless it was removed, then install a new one.


Install the six clutch inspection cover screws with a T-27 torx socket and tighten to specification. Tighten the screws a little bit at a time in a crisscross pattern.

(Clutch Inspection Cover Screw Torque: 84 - 108 in-lbs or 9.5 - 12.2 N-m)


Install the shift lever and rubber washer.


Install the shift lever bolt with a 1/4 in. Allen and tighten to specification.

Adjust the clutch cable. See the Clutch Cable Adjustment topic for more information.

Adjust the primary drive chain. See the Primary Drive Chain topic for more information.

Install the battery cable onto the crankcase. See the Battery Cable Removal for more information.

Install the left side footpeg. See the Footpeg topic for more information.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-16-2015, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MaximumFinishes View Post
It's ironic this thread is a sticky as I signed up to the forums specifically to get some mechanical advice involving this area.

I recently removed my primary cover to replace the gasket and clutch cable seal. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but my limits do know bounds indeed. After a bunch of cussing and a little stripping of bolt heads I got everything put back together only to discover that the bike wouldn't go into gear. It is harder to roll when shifted into gear, but it definitely isn't fully engaging. I re-drained the fluid and pulled everything apart only to see no obvious problem. I'm sure it's something simple but I'm even simpler. Any advice?

Thanks,
Max
Sounds to me like the clutch is out of adjustment.

When you adjust it make sure you fully loosen the cable end and then follow the directions carefully.

I'm a little confused as to exactly what's happening. So when you put it into gear with the bike off and clutch engaged you can still roll it but it is harder than when it is in neutral correct?

So saying the clutch isn't fully engaging?

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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 08:11 AM
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^^^That sounds very likely. I'll try that and hit you up if I run into problems. Thanks Bro.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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No prob hope we can get it resolved

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2015, 01:57 PM
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Sounds like, for a start.....get a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XL1200R View Post
Sounds to me like the clutch is out of adjustment.

When you adjust it make sure you fully loosen the cable end and then follow the directions carefully.
That's pretty much what it was. I think I was having a problem getting it adjusted properly because the cable is almost shot. I had to adjust it almost off the threads just to get it to work right. Now I'm gonna have to tear it all apart again. Oh well.

Thanks for the help bro.
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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-29-2015, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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No problem. Glad you've figured it out.

For what it's worth when my clutch spring plate started to go it got very hard to adjust. the clutch did not want to fully disengage..which is the opposite of your problem but u figured I'd throw it out there.

Link to my Youtube channel. All riding videos. Enjoy.
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