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Throttle cable adjustment?

19K views 52 replies 10 participants last post by  mrbreezeet1 
#1 ·
Was having issues with the throttle snapping closed when releasing grip. Seemed like you had to "help" it along when letting off the gas. I grabbed my manual and set cables as per manual instructions, and although it seemed i got my WOT set properly, the throttle still "hangs" really close to closed throttle. I still have to give it a little twist to shut it.once shut, it stays shut. For example. Going down the road at 45 you only hold the gas slightly open. If i let go, it hokds there, maybe slowly close on its own if i hit a bump. How do i fix this? Seems the adjuster is out about as far as it will go
 
#7 ·
Pretty easy.
Hardest part is probably deciding what lube to use.
A bunch of options out there. The Moco (used to?) sell a "special" lube in it`s own little applicator.
Other companies make "specialized" cable lubes as well.

Have heard of people using anything from 3 in 1 Oil to liquid graphite. :dunno
Always wondered how well some of the lubes designed for firearms would work.

Two notes of caution. 1) Whatever you use. It should be a very light viscosity.
A heavier weight can attract and hold dust and dirt more readily. As well as get stiff in cold weather. This will gum up the cable.
2) While I do`t think they make Teflon coated throttle cables. Never use any sort of lube on one that is.

And. While you are at it. Would probably not hurt to lube the clutch cable. As long as it is not Teflon coated.

If after oiling the cable the situation does not improve. There is a chance one or the other cable has started to fray. A strand of the cable has cracked or broken and started to unwind. If that is the case then the cable(s) need replaced.
 
#8 ·
According to a couple threads on google you take off the housing by the throttle grip to reveal the cables. Spray lube of your choice into each cable until it comes out the other end at the carb, and mop up the excess. Then readjust. I mean its not awful, but im very particular about these things and any lag is too much lag in my opinion.
 
#13 ·
Cable should probably be lubed once(?) a year.
Varies on use and conditions the bike is ridden in.
4 years? I strongly suggest lubing the clutch cable as well. You do not want it binding or worse breaking on you while on the road.
Of course first making sure it is not a Teflon coated one.

The respect is appreciated. But PLEASE, drop the "Sir".
Thunder or T~S is good.
 
#10 ·
Have seen the lube come in bottles with little hollow needle type extensions that allow you to drip it down into the cable sleeves.
A little less messy. I have had good luck with liquid graphite. Found at any hardware store.
And serves a double purpose for locks around the house as well.

But yea. That procedure sounds about right.
And I hate anything that is not right too.
Especially on my bike. :nod
 
#12 ·
Have seen the lube come in bottles with little hollow needle type extensions that allow you to drip it down into the cable sleeves.
A little less messy. I have had good luck with liquid graphite. Found at any hardware store.
And serves a double purpose for locks around the house as well.

But yea. That procedure sounds about right.
And I hate anything that is not right too.
Especially on my bike.
Ill be at harbor freight getting sandpaer to refinish my aluminum today, ill grab some lube too
 
#16 ·
If you ever took your clutch cable off you would probably be surprised at how much drag there is in the cable sliding freely through the housing even if you think its sliding freely, I was. I was also surprised to find a kinked housing in one of my throttle cables when I took those off, but the throttle still snapped back okay before I replaced them.

The throttle return spring isnt very strong so if they do have a kink,the cables are gummed up inside or not adjusted properly it will cause what you are experiencing. If you think about it, there are three 90 degree corners in their routing and that alone adds drag. Also check to make sure the throttle isnt pushed so tightly onto the handlebars that the ends might be dragging. When I adjusted mine after installing new cables it took some fine tuning to get it to snap back properly.
 
#17 ·
Help! I took the two allen screws out of the throttoe grip to access the cables where they attach to the grip. Went to reassemble, seems straightforward as all hell, but now i have to force everything together!!! If i do the throttle gets REALLY STUCK. I opened it back up to see if i could see what is dragging and preventing the plastic from snapping back together flush but i cant fogure it out!!
 
#19 ·
Figured it out. Ferrule not pressed all the way in. Bigger issue guys. Went to start the bike. Hit starter, apparently the engine is flooded from the twisting of the throttle. Let off. Hit the starter again. POP. no lights, no dash, no starter, nothing. I hosed down the inside of the throttle housing with white lithium grease, did i **** something up?
 
#20 ·
Sounds like you frecked something up. Get a new fuse and start over. Take your time amigo.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#24 ·
If you did not at least wipe off the excess you are asking for trouble in things "gunking" up at some point in time.
Do`t kill your bike with kindness.

But that`s just me..... :dunno

The MoCo has been building bikes for a very long time. They have a reason for printing what is in the Shop Manual and why it is what HD trained Mechanics go by as well.
 
#30 ·
Haha i guess all is not well. Remember last night i got the bike running after that weird elecrical pop? This cool morning i went out, turned ignition on, i had headlights and dash, pulled enricher and hit the starter, i hear a click (starter solenoid?) And no crank, immediately lights out. No dash, no headlamp, nothing. Turned key off. Turned key back on, still no lights.
Last night i hooked the bike to my trickle maintainet, and within 30 seconds it indicated FULL BATTERY. I know battery is goid. In fact, everything is good, something just got boogered up yesterday and i need help. It cant be a fuse, because it wouldnt stop working and then start working and stop again. What should i be looking at? Can lithium grease short out electrical connectors? I thought it was insulative but i could be wrong. I really need this bike running so i can clean her up today
 
#31 ·
.....Can lithium grease short out electrical connectors? I thought it was insulative....
Think you are confusing lithium grease with dielectric grease.
Is it conductive? :dunno
Never thought about it as I never even thought of using it on electrical connections.

Dielectric grease is conductive. It is why it can be used on electrical connections.
Great for preventing corrosion, electrolysis. The corroding of the connections when a current is passed through two dissimilar metals and there is a potential for moisture being introduced.
As long as it is used sparingly and does not cause a bridge between another connection.
 
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