[JR0B33]

The next thing I would do is verify battery volts are at least 12.8v static and I would install a new FOB battery. The FOB is brand new correct ?

Yes, brand new in the plastic when I got it. I had the battery on the charger all night, it was at 13. I’ll replace the fob battery and try again.

 

[SCHMIDTY]

In this order; first the FOB communicates with the TSSM, then the TSSM communicates to the ECM and finally the security system is either activated or deactivated. So if you can't get the FOB programmed that would indicate that the TSSM and ECM aren't married or communicating and might need to be paired again. That procedure also is a sticky in the electrical section but a bit more technical.
Have you looked to see if your bike has the siren installed ? It would be parked in behind the ECM bracket. If it's not installed check it's harness connector to make sure a previous owner didn't use it for a different power supply or something.
I'm curious how the security system got set in the first place when it was just setting stored away ??? Interesting indeed !!!

 

[JR0B33]

In this order; first the FOB communicates with the TSSM, then the TSSM communicates to the ECM and finally the security system is either activated or deactivated. So if you can't get the FOB programmed that would indicate that the TSSM and ECM aren't married or communicating and might need to be paired again. That procedure also is a sticky in the electrical section but a bit more technical.
Have you looked to see if your bike has the siren installed ? It would be parked in behind the ECM bracket. If it's not installed check it's harness connector to make sure a previous owner didn't use it for a different power supply or something.
I'm curious how the security system got set in the first place when it was just setting stored away ??? Interesting indeed !!!

I haven't seen/heard the siren, I will see if I can find it later tonight when I get back home. I agree, very very interesting... and frustrating lol!

 

[SCHMIDTY]

This is a long thread and as I'm re-reading it I paused at post #30 from 'wonkey'. He asked why there was a main battery voltage drop from 12.8v down to 10.5v when the start button is pressed if the security system is activated. That shouldn't happen IMO. The security system deactivates the starter system. Hmmm ?
The starter can be jumped. Unplug the small green wire at the top of the starter, gotta use 45° poker to trip the tab that locks the connector into the starter. Next connect a jumper wire into the starter and to the battery B+ post, that should crank the starter over. If the ignition switch is in the on position the engine can start if the security is off but the engine will turn over regardless.
Let's see if the engine can be jump started !

 

[JR0B33]

This is a long thread and as I'm re-reading it I paused at post #30 from 'wonkey'. He asked why there was a main battery voltage drop from 12.8v down to 10.5v when the start button is pressed if the security system is activated. That shouldn't happen IMO. The security system deactivates the starter system. Hmmm ?
The starter can be jumped. Unplug the small green wire at the top of the starter, gotta use 45° poker to trip the tab that locks the connector into the starter. Next connect a jumper wire into the starter and to the battery B+ post, that should crank the starter over. If the ignition switch is in the on position the engine can start if the security is off but the engine will turn over regardless.
Let's see if the engine can be jump started !

I may have confused myself when reading this. I just want to make it clear that the starter is currently cranking over the engine when I try to start the bike. Its cranking, I am just getting no spark.

 

[SCHMIDTY]

I may have confused myself when reading this. I just want to make it clear that the starter is currently cranking over the engine when I try to start the bike. Its cranking, I am just getting no spark.

I guess I may have confused myself also !
If the security system is active the starter shouldn't turn the engine over. I think that's what 'wonkey' was referring to. Nothing is supposed to happen except flashing lights and maybe siren blaring !

 

[JR0B33]

I guess I may have confused myself also !
If the security system is active the starter shouldn't turn the engine over. I think that's what 'wonkey' was referring to. Nothing is supposed to happen except flashing lights and maybe siren blaring !

Yes the engine is cranking over just fine. I am just getting no spark from the coil to the plug. I have 12v to the center pin on the plug going to the coil but nothing on the outside pins. Any new ideas now? Maybe a bad ECM?

 

[SCHMIDTY]

12 volts indicates a discharged battery. You should be seeing 12.8 volts at the coil. Each tenth a volt in a 12 volt system is critical. You've stated several times throughout this threat that you're measuring 12 volts at the coil. That's not enough !
Take a closer measurement at the coil when cranking the starter over.

 

[JR0B33]

12 volts indicates a discharged battery. You should be seeing 12.8 volts at the coil. Each tenth a volt in a 12 volt system is critical. You've stated several times throughout this threat that you're measuring 12 volts at the coil. That's not enough !
Take a closer measurement at the coil when cranking the starter over.

I am getting 0v going to the two outside pins on the plug going to the coil. Is this maybe because the battery doesn't have enough volts to tell the ECM to send volts to the coil?

When reading volts across the battery terminals I was only getting 10.5v when cranking. (I fully charged the battery two nights ago and it was at 13.1v after I took the charger off. It still was getting no spark. I will borrow a good battery from my fathers bike and see if this changes anything.)

 

[SCHMIDTY]

I am getting 0v going to the two outside pins on the plug going to the coil. Is this maybe because the battery doesn't have enough volts to tell the ECM to send volts to the coil?

When reading volts across the battery terminals I was only getting 10.5v when cranking. (I fully charged the battery two nights ago and it was at 13.1v after I took the charger off. It still was getting no spark. I will borrow a good battery from my fathers bike and see if this changes anything.)

The two outer wires are signal wires from the ICM, if there's a forth wire it's for the ion sense circuit. Multimeters don't respond fast enough to measure the signal voltages. You indicated in the beginning of this thread that you replaced the coil with a new coil, correct ? All of the replacement parts are new, correct ?

 

[SCHMIDTY]

Also you stated early that there is a tach code. Your bike doesn't have a tach but the harness does have a pink tach wire. If that pink wire shorts to ground the coil won't work. Trace that tach wire and verify it isn't causing a problem. The pink wire might be in the main harness under the speedo dash panel. If there happens to be a tach installed unplug it and check for spark.

 

[JR0B33]

Also you stated early that there is a tach code. Your bike doesn't have a tach but the harness does have a pink tach wire. If that pink wire shorts to ground the coil won't work. Trace that tach wire and verify it isn't causing a problem. The pink wire might be in the main harness under the speedo dash panel. If there happens to be a tach installed unplug it and check for spark.

My plug going to the coil has 3 wires so i guess there is no "ion sense circuit". I bought a new coil and a new crank position sensor. When I put both of those on the bike still had no spark so I looked up the specs on the coil and crank position sensor and the old and new ones both tested good (tested the ohms with multimeter) so I ruled that out and returned the new coil and crank sensor. So the bike currently has to original coil and CPS.

Correct, I do not have a tach, I will look for that pink wire tonight!

 

[SCHMIDTY]

My plug going to the coil has 3 wires so i guess there is no "ion sense circuit". I bought a new coil and a new crank position sensor. When I put both of those on the bike still had no spark so I looked up the specs on the coil and crank position sensor and the old and new ones both tested good (tested the ohms with multimeter) so I ruled that out and returned the new coil and crank sensor. So the bike currently has to original coil and CPS.

Correct, I do not have a tach, I will look for that pink wire tonight!

You returned the new coil and crank sensor after you installed them and got reimbursed ??? So now the original coil and crank sensor are back in the bike, correct ?

 

[JR0B33]

You returned the new coil and crank sensor after you installed them and got reimbursed ??? So now the original coil and crank sensor are back in the bike, correct ?

Correct!

 

[SCHMIDTY]

Next verify the pink tach wire isn't affecting the ignition circuit. Next I'd like to see the numbers you got from the measurements from your coil and crank sensor please.

 

[JR0B33]

Next verify the pink tach wire isn't affecting the ignition circuit. Next I'd like to see the numbers you got from the measurements from your coil and crank sensor please.

Yessir, will do! I hope to verify that tonight after work.

 

[SCHMIDTY]

Bear with me, I'm just trying to do some forensic investigating now. I have to ask questions relating to your diagnostic procedures.

 

[JR0B33]

Bear with me, I'm just trying to do some forensic investigating now. I have to ask questions relating to your diagnostic procedures.

I completely understand. I am just grateful to have you helping me with this.

 

[JR0B33]

Next verify the pink tach wire isn't affecting the ignition circuit. Next I'd like to see the numbers you got from the measurements from your coil and crank sensor please.

As far as I can see the pink wire is fine. I guess I could take off the tank and really try to trace it but it looks good under the speedo.

as I’m retesting the ohms on the coil I am now getting nothing between the two prongs on the plug (middle prong And outside prong). I am getting 1158 ohms between where the plug wires plug into. I am getting 1005 between the two prongs on the crank sensor.

maybe the coil is bad and I just miss read it before? And maybe the other coil I tried was also bad? I’m confused now. I guess I’ll order another new coil…

 

[JR0B33]

Next verify the pink tach wire isn't affecting the ignition circuit. Next I'd like to see the numbers you got from the measurements from your coil and crank sensor please.

Unless I have bad information. I saw that the coil plug should read around 3.1 ohms between the middle and one of the outer prongs. I’m getting .6 ohms for both.