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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The fuse tied to the neutral and oil indicator lights on my 03 sporty keeps blowing… I’ve looked through everything I can without opening up all the wiring looms and what not… anyone have any thoughts or tips about what’s going on?
If I change the fuse it works fine until I take the bike for a ride then it blows again… so the bulb seems fine and I assume the sensor in the tranny is working properly…
 

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The fuse tied to the neutral and oil indicator lights on my 03 sporty keeps blowing… I’ve looked through everything I can without opening up all the wiring looms and what not… anyone have any thoughts or tips about what’s going on?
If I change the fuse it works fine until I take the bike for a ride then it blows again… so the bulb seems fine and I assume the sensor in the tranny is working properly…
Does this bike happen to be a "XL 883 C" or a "XL1200 C" ?
The "C" stands for "Classic", They have a handlebar riser that is kinda boxy with the indicating lamps on the top of the boxy part...

My buddy had an 03 XL 883 C that i basically brought back to life after being in storage for 10+ years:

It had an oil light that would NOT go out.
I opened that box / riser thing... The OEM wiring in there is a MESS! The Neutral Light shares its positive side with the oil lamp. (that would explain why both lights quit when your fuse blows).

According to the wire schematic (Official HD Service Manual) The negative wire for the oil lamp, is supposed to be a continuous wire through the harness to the oil pressure switch. So that switch provides the ground when oil pressure is low or absent. I traced that wire through 3, yes three connections and wire color changes! When i hit the 3rd color, I decided to go around the whole freekin' mess and ran my own wire from the lamp directly to the oil switch. THAT WORKED! Key off, light off. Key on, light on. Start engine, light off. Kill engine, light on! So i capped the old wire off at both ends and stored it. (God only knows what path and how many times that old wire was spliced).

Now inside that handlebar riser box thing:
Due yourself a favor and remove the fuel tank, then handlebars. The bars don't need to come off, but layd back out of the way and well below the riser box thing. This will also remove the speedometer. Now you can get to the screws on the backside (closest to the seat) to open the box.
DON'T EVER SAY I DID NOT WARN YOU: MEDUSA, LIVES IN THAT BOX!
The wires in there are soldered together at different points. The wires are kinked at the same points! Getting that mess "UN-F****D" is a real joy! If the wires and/or solder didn't break when you untangled them, they will, when you try to stuff it all back in there!

My money is on a short to ground (probably at one of those soldered and kinked points). Your headache is hiding in that box... Bet?

Closing up that box:
Requires a minimum of 4 hands, 6 is helpful, but the standing space is limited and you'll prolly clunk heads! Tucking the wires back in and installing the plate with the screws will cause wires to get pinched! Someone needs to hold the bars and another needs to support the speedo, while another puts the bolts in the bar clamp... SEE 6 HANDS!

Note: The hot wire (from the fuse) goes directly to the Neutral light, then a short wire jumps the shared power to the oil light. So, it is the run where your intermittent short will be.

The wires going to the oil pressure and neutral switches, provide ground to the lights. (These can not blow a fuse!)

Can you believe, after wrestling with these problems, i turned right around and bought a '17 FX 1200 C :oops::rolleyes:
They really are grate bikes! (y)

Best of luck to you! IT CAN BE DONE! I DID (with one extra pair of hands)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does this bike happen to be a "XL 883 C" or a "XL1200 C" ?
The "C" stands for "Classic", They have a handlebar riser that is kinda boxy with the indicating lamps on the top of the boxy part...

My buddy had an 03 XL 883 C that i basically brought back to life after being in storage for 10+ years:

It had an oil light that would NOT go out.
I opened that box / riser thing... The OEM wiring in there is a MESS! The Neutral Light shares its positive side with the oil lamp. (that would explain why both lights quit when your fuse blows).

According to the wire schematic (Official HD Service Manual) The negative wire for the oil lamp, is supposed to be a continuous wire through the harness to the oil pressure switch. So that switch provides the ground when oil pressure is low or absent. I traced that wire through 3, yes three connections and wire color changes! When i hit the 3rd color, I decided to go around the whole freekin' mess and ran my own wire from the lamp directly to the oil switch. THAT WORKED! Key off, light off. Key on, light on. Start engine, light off. Kill engine, light on! So i capped the old wire off at both ends and stored it. (God only knows what path and how many times that old wire was spliced).

Now inside that handlebar riser box thing:
Due yourself a favor and remove the fuel tank, then handlebars. The bars don't need to come off, but layd back out of the way and well below the riser box thing. This will also remove the speedometer. Now you can get to the screws on the backside (closest to the seat) to open the box.
DON'T EVER SAY I DID NOT WARN YOU: MEDUSA, LIVES IN THAT BOX!
The wires in there are soldered together at different points. The wires are kinked at the same points! Getting that mess "UN-F****D" is a real joy! If the wires and/or solder didn't break when you untangled them, they will, when you try to stuff it all back in there!

My money is on a short to ground (probably at one of those soldered and kinked points). Your headache is hiding in that box... Bet?

Closing up that box:
Requires a minimum of 4 hands, 6 is helpful, but the standing space is limited and you'll prolly clunk heads! Tucking the wires back in and installing the plate with the screws will cause wires to get pinched! Someone needs to hold the bars and another needs to support the speedo, while another puts the bolts in the bar clamp... SEE 6 HANDS!

Note: The hot wire (from the fuse) goes directly to the Neutral light, then a short wire jumps the shared power to the oil light. So, it is the run where your intermittent short will be.

The wires going to the oil pressure and neutral switches, provide ground to the lights. (These can not blow a fuse!)

Can you believe, after wrestling with these problems, i turned right around and bought a '17 FX 1200 C :oops::rolleyes:
They really are grate bikes! (y)

Best of luck to you! IT CAN BE DONE! I DID (with one extra pair of hands)!
Thanks! It’s an 883 hugger- not sure if they have the same instrument panel- I’ve seen some 1200’s with a different style? Mine has the strip pf indicator lights between the bar clamps and the speedo that is on top.
 

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Does this bike happen to be a "XL 883 C" or a "XL1200 C" ?
The "C" stands for "Classic", They have a handlebar riser that is kinda boxy with the indicating lamps on the top of the boxy part...

My buddy had an 03 XL 883 C that i basically brought back to life after being in storage for 10+ years:

It had an oil light that would NOT go out.
I opened that box / riser thing... The OEM wiring in there is a MESS! The Neutral Light shares its positive side with the oil lamp. (that would explain why both lights quit when your fuse blows).

According to the wire schematic (Official HD Service Manual) The negative wire for the oil lamp, is supposed to be a continuous wire through the harness to the oil pressure switch. So that switch provides the ground when oil pressure is low or absent. I traced that wire through 3, yes three connections and wire color changes! When i hit the 3rd color, I decided to go around the whole freekin' mess and ran my own wire from the lamp directly to the oil switch. THAT WORKED! Key off, light off. Key on, light on. Start engine, light off. Kill engine, light on! So i capped the old wire off at both ends and stored it. (God only knows what path and how many times that old wire was spliced).

Now inside that handlebar riser box thing:
Due yourself a favor and remove the fuel tank, then handlebars. The bars don't need to come off, but layd back out of the way and well below the riser box thing. This will also remove the speedometer. Now you can get to the screws on the backside (closest to the seat) to open the box.
DON'T EVER SAY I DID NOT WARN YOU: MEDUSA, LIVES IN THAT BOX!
The wires in there are soldered together at different points. The wires are kinked at the same points! Getting that mess "UN-F****D" is a real joy! If the wires and/or solder didn't break when you untangled them, they will, when you try to stuff it all back in there!

My money is on a short to ground (probably at one of those soldered and kinked points). Your headache is hiding in that box... Bet?

Closing up that box:
Requires a minimum of 4 hands, 6 is helpful, but the standing space is limited and you'll prolly clunk heads! Tucking the wires back in and installing the plate with the screws will cause wires to get pinched! Someone needs to hold the bars and another needs to support the speedo, while another puts the bolts in the bar clamp... SEE 6 HANDS!

Note: The hot wire (from the fuse) goes directly to the Neutral light, then a short wire jumps the shared power to the oil light. So, it is the run where your intermittent short will be.

The wires going to the oil pressure and neutral switches, provide ground to the lights. (These can not blow a fuse!)

Can you believe, after wrestling with these problems, i turned right around and bought a '17 FX 1200 C :oops::rolleyes:
They really are grate bikes! (y)

Best of luck to you! IT CAN BE DONE! I DID (with one extra pair of hands)!
1/2 Ton IS NOT KIDDING about how evil that is!
 

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The fuse tied to the neutral and oil indicator lights on my 03 sporty keeps blowing… I’ve looked through everything I can without opening up all the wiring looms and what not… anyone have any thoughts or tips about what’s going on?
If I change the fuse it works fine until I take the bike for a ride then it blows again… so the bulb seems fine and I assume the sensor in the tranny is working properly…
Does the horn work ? I assume the fuse that's blowing is the accy. fuse, the horn is on that circuit too. Unplug the horn to see if the fuse still blows.
 

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The oil light and neutral light are powered by the instruments fuse.

The reason I suggested unplugging the tachometer is because it is on that circuit, and it would have been an easy thing to eliminate, but since there is no tach, it is probably a chafed wire shorting to ground.

Try unplugging the connector for the instruments, if the fuse still blows, the short is between the connector and the fuse.

If the fuse doesn`t blow, the short is between the connector and the instruments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Does the horn work ? I assume the fuse that's blowing is the accy. fuse, the horn is on that circuit too. Unplug the horn to see if the fuse still blows.
The horn never seems to go out- don’t think it’s on the same circuit on this year… it’s weird it literally seems to just be these 2 lights that really I don’t need, but it won’t pass safety o spec room without them
 
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