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06 fat boy won’t start

2708 Views 65 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Jdthomas3540
I have a 06 fat boy that I’m building. The bike would turn over and run fine until the other day. I turned the ignition on, switch it to start and press the ignition. It does nothing at all. Lights up but that’s it. I changed the start relay but nothing changed. Any ideas on we’re to start??
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Time to bust out the test light and start tracing out the starting circuit.

You do have the service manual right?
Time to bust out the test light and start tracing out the starting circuit.
A test light is not the proper tool for electrical troubleshooting...

All they can tell you is that there is enough voltage to illuminate the light.

You can buy a voltmeter for about 10 bucks.

OP:
Where to start?

The battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals, and the surfaces they contact.

Once you know the battery is charged and in good working condition you can start troubleshooting.
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A test light is not the proper tool for electrical troubleshooting...

All they can tell you is that there is enough voltage to illuminate the light.

You can buy a voltmeter for about 10 bucks.

OP:
Where to start?

The battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals, and the surfaces they contact.

Once you know the battery is charged and in good working condition you can start troubleshooting.
Yea I have a service manual and a good volt meter. Battery is a few months old and it has 13.4-13.6 volts at any given time.
Time to bust out the test light and start tracing out the starting circuit.

You do have the service manual right?
Yes sir I have one
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A test light is not the proper tool for electrical troubleshooting...

All they can tell you is that there is enough voltage to illuminate the light.

You can buy a voltmeter for about 10 bucks.

OP:
Where to start?

The battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Remove the battery cables and clean the terminals, and the surfaces they contact.

Once you know the battery is charged and in good working condition you can start troubleshooting.
OP says he has nothing, zip, zilch, nada. A test light WILL point out where his problem is!
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I have a 06 fat boy that I’m building. The bike would turn over and run fine until the other day. I turned the ignition on, switch it to start and press the ignition. It does nothing at all. Lights up but that’s it. I changed the start relay but nothing changed. Any ideas on we’re to start??
Just stating the obvious: Kill switch??? Been bit by that thing myself.
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As I said before, just because a test light illuminates, it does not mean the circuit has sufficient power to do anything other than illuminate the little lamp in the test light.

For example: If there is excessive resistance in a switch that powers a circuit, the voltage could be very low when the circuit is under load, but still be enough to power the test lamp, the test lamp is useless as a diagnostic tool.

43 years as a licensed A&P mechanic has taught me this.
As I said before, just because a test light illuminates, it does not mean the circuit has sufficient power to do anything other than illuminate the little lamp in the test light.

For example: If there is excessive resistance in a switch that powers a circuit, the voltage could be very low when the circuit is under load, but still be enough to power the test lamp, the test lamp is useless as a diagnostic tool.

43 years as a licensed A&P mechanic has taught me this.
I have a 06 fat boy that I’m building. The bike would turn over and run fine until the other day. I turned the ignition on, switch it to start and press the ignition. It does nothing at all. Lights up but that’s it. I changed the start relay but nothing changed. Any ideas on we’re to start??
Flight line tech for USAF and computer engineer as a civilian taught me when a test light can be used and when a volt meter is needed.
Yea… not using a test light cause it’s not as accurate as I feel is needed. So far what I’ve found out is I get 13.5v at the battery. Turn the ignition on and run switch. When I hit the start switch I get a reading of 13.3-4 on my starter relay on the two bottom pins. It’s no sending it to the center green wire going to the starter. I get nothing at all on it when holding start. I can bypass it and hook the starter up with a jumper and it’ll spin over fine. I’ve tried a few relays but get that same results
Yea… not using a test light cause it’s not as accurate as I feel is needed. So far what I’ve found out is I get 13.5v at the battery. Turn the ignition on and run switch. When I hit the start switch I get a reading of 13.3-4 on my starter relay on the two bottom pins. It’s no sending it to the center green wire going to the starter. I get nothing at all on it when holding start. I can bypass it and hook the starter up with a jumper and it’ll spin over fine. I’ve tried a few relays but get that same results
And a test light wouldn't have been able to tell you this because.......

I hope you used a Fluke branded DVM, cause I wouldn't trust anything else.... :rolleyes:
Bad ground or loose wire potentially wouldn’t allow proper current consistently. Wanted to make sure nothing was dropping out.
@Jdthomas3540:

Have you had the battery load tested yet?

Static voltage at the battery posts does not tell you the condition of the battery when it is under load.

Until you know the battery is fully charged and in good working condition you cannot accurately troubleshoot.

Pull the battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store, they will load test it for free.
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@Jdthomas3540:

Have you had the battery load tested yet?

Static voltage at the battery posts does not tell you the condition of the battery when it is under load.

Until you know the battery is fully charged and in good working condition you cannot accurately troubleshoot.

Pull the battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store, they will load test it for free.
Yes sir they tested it and said it was fine. It’s got me stumped on why I get power when I hit the start switch but the relay isn’t pulling it to the green start wire. I’ve tried 4 relays and all the same
A common problem when this occurs is that the TSM/TSSM is at fault.

The TSM/TSSM provides ground for the low current circuit in the relay.

Try adding a temporary wire from pin 85 on the relay to ground.
A common problem when this occurs is that the TSM/TSSM is at fault.

The TSM/TSSM provides ground for the low current circuit in the relay.

Try adding a temporary wire from pin 85 on the relay to ground.
Ok awesome, I’m on duty today but will try it tomorrow night. Thank you
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A common problem when this occurs is that the TSM/TSSM is at fault.

The TSM/TSSM provides ground for the low current circuit in the relay.

Try adding a temporary wire from pin 85 on the relay to ground.
[/QUOT
Ok awesome, I’m on duty today but will try it tomorrow night. Thank you
you think it might be a security override? Might look into replacing the tssm with the tsm to get rid of the security all together
Don`t start spending money yet, try running that alternate ground first.
A common problem when this occurs is that the TSM/TSSM is at fault.

The TSM/TSSM provides ground for the low current circuit in the relay.

Try adding a temporary wire from pin 85 on the relay to ground.
[/QUOTE
Don`t start spending money yet, try running that alternate ground first.
Don`t start spending money yet, try running that alternate ground first.
Like this?
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Like this?
You can put it to any ground surface on the frame, wherever is easiest.
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