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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I am after some quick advice as I rely heavily on my bike for transport daily and have limited time to investigate my fault codes.

I was out riding today on my 09 Road King Classic and I noticed that my cruise control did not work at all and I was not getting the 6th gear indication on the speedo at any time I was in the top gear.

When the cruise control is switched on the amber symbol would stay on when below 30 mph but would ‘disappear’ from the speedo when I was moving greater than 30 mph and in 3rd gear. When slowing below 30-20 mph the Check Engine Light (CEL) would intermittently flash but go out.

I pulled the codes and I get the following:

P-0563 – Battery Voltage High

S-60563, 61121, 61122 (I don’t know what these are?)

SP- b1006 – Accessory line over voltage and b1007 – Ignition line overvoltage


The battery is a Power Sports AGM ETX30L and is 6 months old, I get 12.82 vdc across the battery terminals when the main switch is off and 12.8 vdc when started and at idle… when I rev the engine I get up to 16 vdc at the battery terminals.

The bike was working fine previously (as far as I can tell)… so I ‘assume’ that the alternator is outputting too much voltage… or could it be the regulator? I do have a Clymer FLH series maintenance manual and I am trying to troubleshoot…

Has anyone seen this before and is there an easy quick fix… I am getting very concerned that the bike will be out of action for a long time and I need it Monday.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ohhh, I am also checking out Daves stick regarding Charge System Diagnostics... just after some quick opinions/possibilities...
 

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Agreed, regulator. 15v or more is over voltage and the ECM will produce a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Bikedelic and Schmidtys,

I'll be checking it first thing in the morning... would riding the bike for approx 40-50 miles degrade the battery due to over voltage? Also, could a small battery tender have caused the regulator to become unserviceable as it is connected directly to the battery and maybe there was reverse voltage going back to the regulator? I wouldn't have thought a bunch of diodes would fail...especially if the bike only has 28K miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am stuck... I conducted tests on the regulator and stator wiring as per the charging system sticky with my determination being the stator appears to be shorted to ground... 0.5 ohms to chassis on all 3 stator O/P wires that go to the i/p of the regulator. Also, same reading from negative lead (wire) that connects to the o/p of the voltage regulator...

I disconnected the regulator and did the cold resistance checks using my crappy multimeter (diode setting) and have 475, 475, 469 ohms between the 3 A/C socket terminals on the regulator and the positive O/P terminal on the regulator (that connects to the +ve lead to the battery). The reverse was infinite readings on all 3 A/C wires. So this tells me that the regulator is good.

When I did the voltage tests with the bike started, the charging system test had approx 12.9 VDC to 13.1 VDC at the battery terminals. When I revved the throttle... the charging system O/P voltage increased up to 16 VDC... so if the regulator "appeared" to be good with the cold checks and is supposed to be working why would the O/P voltage increase to 16 VDC when revving the engine??

I did have the regulator hanging off the bike when I tested the O/P voltage directly at the regulator O/P pins (with the stator wires connected of course) - It was approx 10 VDC.

So... I am no officially confused....
 

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Retired citizen
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Your stator is shorted to ground based on the measurements you posted. It should measure approx. .5 ohms across the stator pins, from pin to pin. Zero ohms from each pin to ground.
The regulator should be installed when doing tests. Test across each regulator pin with a test light, if the test lights the diodes are out.
A shorted stator can destroy the regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Schmidtys,

Does anyone have a recommendation on a 'better than stock' stator that's easier to install on a 09 Road King Classic without any further changes to the regulator, connectors etc... and that is not too expensive? Drag specialties?
 

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I like using the H-D parts for the warranty. Most aftermarket parts stores won't take returns or warranty on electrical. H-D is even finicky on the electrical stuff but they will work with ya.
 

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Before you change the stator, something doesn't click. If the stator is shorted, the charging would be low or non-exsistant , not high. About the only thing that can cause a high charge is the voltage regulator.
Better do some more checking before spending a lot of money.
 
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