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A friend and I are working on his motorcycle. It is a 1992 flhtc with the air anti dive system tied to the handlebars. The fork seals are leaking. Parts are in hand, but I have a question that determines a lot of work or a little work. I have read about drawing in the fluid after draining with a vacuum pump via the handlebar schrader valve. I do not believe there will be an issue with that part. However, my question is about replacing the seals. The bike has fork slider covers on it. If you unbolt the bottom of the fork tube and loosen the lower, is there enough clearance to change the seal and put it back on without pulling the whole fork tube? I have to have enough room to press in the seal and get the retainer clip into the tube. I am just trying to make sure I have bases covered and I do not want to open up the top of the fork unless absolutely needed. Thanks for any advice.
 

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I am new to the forum and I do believe I need to post this in the "suspension" area.... My punishment for not reading more before posting.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1992

A friend and I are working on his motorcycle. It is a 1992 flhtc with the air anti dive system tied to the handlebars. The fork seals are leaking. Parts are in hand, but I have a question that determines a lot of work or a little work. I have read about drawing in the fluid after draining with a vacuum pump via the handlebar schrader valve. I do not believe there will be an issue with that part. However, my question is about replacing the seals. The bike has fork slider covers on it. If you unbolt the bottom of the fork tube and loosen the lower, is there enough clearance to change the seal and put it back on without pulling the whole fork tube? I have to have enough room to press in the seal and get the retainer clip into the tube. I am just trying to make sure I have bases covered and I do not want to open up the top of the fork unless absolutely needed. Thanks for any advice.
 

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It's doable without removing the forks from the bike if ya know how it's done. Ya need a special split seal driver (K&L) and a 5mm extended Allen driver to remove the bottom damper tube screw. With the screw removed you use the slider like a slide hammer to get it free from the fork bushings. Remove the bushings and seal from the fork tube, install the new seal on the fork tube then the bushings. Support the slider and use the split seal installer to seat the seal in the top of the slider then push the slider up and reinstall the damper tube screw with some sealer on the threads. Draw the correct amount of fork oil in from the bottom with the vacuum pump.
FYI it's best to have the factory service manual handy as a guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the confirmation and guidance. I have the seal driver, the manual, and the 5 mm extended allen driver. I just wasn't sure. I appreciate the reply. I have been reading the manual and looking items up, but just could not find a confirmation. I do have to get a small vacuum pump. Any suggestions? I would not think it would take that much to draw the fluid in...

Again...thanks. It just makes it easier knowing it can be done. I will be pulling the lowers off in a bit.

-Rick
 

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Hand operated vac. pumps can be had from many places that sell tools. They are commonly found in the brake section. Harbor Freight has two models, they are inexpensive. Mine has worked fine for several brake fluid changes on my cars and bikes (although the gauge face fell off when I opened the blister pack).
 

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Yep. Harbor freight. Local and questionable tools on occasion. I try to stay with their air sockets and so on. I will stop by there and see what they have on hand. We have a Rural King here as well. They may have something. Thanks for the help.
 
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