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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this one started as a 1995 883, the previous owner upgraded the tank to a fat bob tank and big bore 1200 kit so that saves time on my part (and $$$$)
So after showing my woman all sorts of rides from online she picked a look or style or whatever you want to call it from a few bikes here and there. I know it's not s full on bobber but it's pretty close and I really did try to talk her out of keeping fenders (I difnt want to paint them too lol)
Anyway, I didn't take pictures all the way through the painting process but here's a few pictures of before and during to this point. (Still have a jockey shifter and blue powder coated wheelset being built for it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My big road block is wiring I can build most anything but wiring is one of those things.
I know there is a drive light wire for power to the tail light as well as the head light for constant power but is the third wire the break wire (for the tail) and the high beam (for the head) and on the new tail light and head light can I just put those together and all will be fine or am I miss something I need to do to keep from burning out bulbs or fuses ?
 

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Just Ride
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Are you going to use handlebar switches? The hot lead to headlight switch can be used for taillight. Front brake light switch can be joined to rear brake switch for taillight brake light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just changed out the black switch housings for factory chrome ones for now. I want to upgrade them to an aftermarket billet set up but need to hold off for a while.

For the most part up on the bars we have on the left just a grip and a factory switch set and housings. No clutch lever as that is going down with for the left foot on the jockey shifter. On the right, we have a factory switch housing, grip, and Arlen Ness break lever. So I guess now that I think about it the actuator for the break light from the front break lever won't work because of that change up but I still need to wire the three wires into two.
 

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Just Ride
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Three position toggle switch. Center for power, others for high and low beams, center also for running light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got the headlight figured out and just have to swap the wires for left and right for the rear turn signals but the tail light now doesn't get brighter when I hit the breaks. I don't have the speedo hooked up and am eliminating the tach.
Did I miss something somewhere?
 

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Are you sure you hooked up the wires to the Brake light switch My 1993 it's located on he rear brake line. Also the bulb may have gone bad. Maybe I can take a pic of the inside of my headlight in a bit for you if you think it would help This one isn't so good. Note that previous owner had a paperclip jumping the front running lights I re routed it and used a wire crimp elsewhere to get them both on.
 

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Have a look to see if the wires are connected to the BL Switch located in the picture. I had to replace mine as it wasn't working I used a multi meter to insure it was the switch itself. I also had to change the bulb as it looked as if it had never been changed and wasn't getting a good ground. Only the tail light was working No Brake light. Used Needle Nose pliers to bend and twist it to get it out. Also Note that the switch is a Hydraulic switch and if there is no pressure in the line it will not make a connection. The brakes must be bled. There is an orange wire and a red wire. Use the multi meter with the key on and see if there is power to one of the wires. If so use a jumper between the two and see if the light goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't see anything in that area before, now I'm gonna have to look again.
I gotta figure out a rig up job for the front break actuator since the lever is aftermarket and we kept the original style control housings. (Budget)
But when I had the bike broke down in that area I didn't see much.
I guess you get what you pay for when you buy craigslist and the guy said he tinkered with it a little
 

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The switch will have a rubber boot over it to protect it from Rain and such just lift it up
You can trace the lead wire with a meter to find it and hook it to any 12 V Hot wire for power that is constant with the key in the on position. Use the OHMS selection on the meter it will jump when the same wire up front connect with the meter and the connected Orange wire at the switch
 

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:thumbsup Here are a few pics I just took that may help. Orange wire goes to fuse or headlight not sure Red wire is for brake light. Green wire is for tail light. Note: There is no ground wire I can see and the bulb gets it's ground from the frame I believe. Make sure the bulb casing is not corroded simply touch the Ohm meter to the outer brake light bulb case and touch the other end to any bare metal and the meter should jump if it's making contact
 

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Sorry for all the posts but keeping them separated might make it less confusing. I took my headlight out so I can display the wiring for you. You will need to test with a meter to find witch orange wire goes to the Brake light switch. (Hot Lead) In the first picture you can see someone cut two wires the left one was for the front running light so I tied it in with the right one outside the headlight. Also there is a loose blue accessory wire that Might be usable for the power to the BL switch. I would hook into the orange wire though. I believe it is the orange and green coming from the separate wires in away from the main harness Plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Max, brother, you got me squared away. turns out the rear break switch wire the red yellow one was loose in the terminal and wasn't in far enough or something. I re-did the connections and all the electrical is set except the rear turn signals aren't lighting up the drive lights, they work when the signal is sent to them. I already checked they are dual element and I just connected them to the existing wires. I might have pulled something out or found another issue though. Back to checking things again lol

probably be a good idea if the lil woman ever decides to do more stuff with this thing to get a new harness.
 

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When I got mine the previous idiot had single element left rear blinker and dual element right blinker. I just use the turn signal right wire to just have blinkers on rear. It saves on the battery and isn't really necessary. It is easier for someone behind me to see just the blinker than a running light get brighter when the blinker is activated. I have seen many single element turn signals on Ebay when looking for a double replacement but like you Budget is already way over for this month.
 

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If the running lights (Low) light up when the blinker (Bright) is activated then you have the wires crossed try switching them around
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I hear ya, why people cut and splice random stuff in wierd places and weird ways is beyond me, just a lil solder and at least a connector would be nice. lol
I know when I go to connect the LED turnsignal mirrors I need a resistor/ regulator thing so that'll be in the mail soon enough no big deal there and the factory front marker lights run driving lights and turn signals, I may just re-run those to the rear. It'd save time hunting issues anyway, then later when I replace the harness I can do it the proper way.
 
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