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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Discussion Starter #1
Before, I told members about a brake caliper service that prevented or repaired the low front brake lever feeling in Ultra, Classis, EG and Roadking bikes with Kelsy-Hayes, 4-piston front brake calipers. HD went to Brembo brakes in 2006 or so, and the issue went away.

I posted about it, and the remedy, here: http://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/general-service-repair/22388-2000-2007-roadking-ultra-big-twin-4-piston-caliper-brake-service.html

Today, I'll walk you through the simple process.

You'll need:
1.) 10mm 12-point socket
2.) 1/4", 12 point socket
3.) Chlorinated brake clean
4.) drain pan
5.) torque wrench
6.) wedge made of wood or plastic (optional)
7.) Compressed air (optional)
8.) Toothbrush. Not your own. (Optional)



You'll not the position of the caliper in regards to the fender. Using tape to protect your paint is a good idea. I use painter's tape.



The caliper will fall naturall, (with hose attached) and want to hit the paint. Tape fender accordingly.



Remove two caliper bolts. (10mm 12-point) Note the shorter one goes on top, and the longer one on the bottom.



Slip the caliper backwards to the fender's edge, and cant outward. You see the pads reach the end of the rotor, clearing them to slide the caliper out from the rotor/fender, on an angle.

NOTE** When removing the left caliper on an EG, Ultra or any model with a front fender light, the fender light positive feed wire is nylon tied to the left brake hose. Either be careful and don't pull on it, or cut the nylon toe, then replace it when done.

Once out, note the pads, and they're equal or uneven distance, in regards to the piston's extensions from the caliper. This after 5000 miles since the last cleaning, and I just noted a more pronounced dragging sound from my pads when at rest.





Your front brake calipers are held on with 2 bolts, both with 10mm, 12-point heads on them.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Next, take your 1/4", 12-point socket, and remove the 2 inner bolts, which hold the pads in. Hold yout hand under the caliper and NOTE the way the pads are installed. The pads are 2 different shapes on the one "tab", so which one goes inward and outward regarding their position is important.

Bolt to remove. (At my thumb)



Pads on floor, as they came out of caliper. Note....outboard pad has square tab at top.



Inspect your pistons, and clean around then with a small brush. I use my wife's toothbrush, then carefully clean and return it. Only a heartless person would put it back dirty.



What I also do, is gently pull the lever for the front brakes, (remember, the other caliper is still on...) so the pistons come out a bit. Holding the inboard ones will help the outboard ones come out to clean them, and the other way around.

Scrub around the pistons, and especially where the pistons are in sontact with the dust boots. If the boots are damaged or torn, I highly suggest replacement, if not a caliper rebuild. Kits are available at your dealer.

After I scrub around the pistons, I wash it down really good with the Brake Clean, (Chlroinated. Non-Chlorinated is Acetone based and will eat paint.) then blow it off/out with compressed air.

Once complete, clean the brake pad retaining pins. These will ger grungy and aquire dirt. If so, they prohibit the pads from moving freely, causing uneven pad wear and other braking issues.

Before:



After:
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Prior to reassembling the pads back in the calipers, inspect and clean the pad tensioning spring in the top/inside of the caliper. It should be free from dirt, and damage. DO NOT LUBE. Brake parts are installed dry. Wet lube attracts and holds dirt, especially, brake dust.



You can do one of two things.... You can install your pads and place the caliper back on, or place the caliper on, and slide the pads up the rotor, back into place. I find putting them in the caliper, (loaded caliper) is easier for installing, then the other way.

Install pads back in caliper and install first pin through hole, and through caliper. You'll see the pad holes through the caliper holes. This is why the retaining pin tip is shaped to a point, to assist in installing.



I use a winshield gasket install tool, because it's wedged and plastic. (soft) I spread the pads enough to clear the rotor for reinstallation.



Carefully place the caliper back in the opening between the rotor/fender, on an angle, and kind of "roll" it onto the rotor, slipping the rotor in between the pads.

HERE'S a TIP: If you lean the caliper with the bottom tilted upwards, you can use a small wedge or screwdriver (if using a screwdriver, NO PRYING or you can chip a $45 set of pads) to just open the front leading edge of the pads, then let the rotor natually separate them, until the caliper falls in place. Again, I simply use my windshield install tool, and it helps the caliper go right into place.



Once in place, the two caliper mounting bolts are torques to 28-38 ft/lbs, ( I set the wrench at 35 ft lbs) and the 2- pad retaining bolts (pins) are torqued to 180-200 inch/lbs. (Just a smidge past snug)



Pump the lever to seat the pads, then do the other side.

Take note: If your master cylinder is already full, then pushing the pistons back in the caliper bore is going to try to overfill the reservoir. That can lead to DOT-4 spilling and damaging paint. DOT-5 owners have silicone fluid, which is just messy. Place a towel covering your tank, and always take care in removing the reservoir cap. The cap will tell you what fluid you have, unless an aftermarket blingy cap has replaced it.



Once complete (both sides) always check and adjust the brake master cylinder fluid level to where it's correct, AFTER pu,ping the lever until a full brake lever tension is felt.

Roadtest and enjoy.
 

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That can lead to DOT-4 spilling and damaging paint. DOT-5 owners have silicone fluid, which is just messy. Place a towel covering your tank, and always take care in removing the reservoir cap. The cap will tell you what fluid you have, unless an aftermarket blingy cap has replaced it.

my 03 RK takes DOT 5.
So does my neighbor's 04, however, my 05 EC takes dot-4.
Was your reservoir cap changed? :confused
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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31,321 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Was your reservoir cap changed? :confused
YES... It was pealing. I scored this one off a 2006 Softail. I DO NOT have DOT-5.

2005 with DOT-4. Kelsey Hayes. My neighbor's RK is a 2004 with DOT-5....

Change-over years for certain models.
 

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Aah, the photo of the cap saying DOT 5 threw me.
 

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Thanks so much Dave !

Thanks for all you do !! Your are all there is !! You know all us old folk ride the big glides . My Thoughts Bud 2008 ultra
 

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Great post, will be doing this shortly and hopefully print the thread out for future reference due to short term memory loss.

Proved to me that this forum is the best as there are lots of very knowledgable people such as yourself that are willing to share their stuff.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Added this video to the thread for the tip at the end about using some electrical tape to hold in the brake lever over night to eliminate trapped air in the system.
 

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Kicking Rocks...
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Retired firefighter
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I use a zip/cable tie...


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I found daves older post and it worked great,I added new pads and bled them right away as long as I was there,now gotta be carefull the front brake will face plant ya....big thumbs up to Dave!!!
 
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