Harley Davidson Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, I've tried the search function and the only thing I've found helpful was a sticky that listed the procedure and codes, but nothing makes sense to me.
Working on my '02 RK. The CEL flashes from time to time while riding so I pulled the codes.
23, 32 and 41.
The 23 refers to ET sensor? Anybody have a clue what that might be? It's a 2002 for Pete's sake...
The 32 is rear cylinder misfire? The bike runs like a scalded dog! Never noticed any misfire...
The 41 is for the CEL not working? Well it lights up at key on, and flashes the codes, so I'm lost here.
Thanks in advance....

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
Killer of Souls
Joined
·
10,866 Posts
Et=Engine temp... maybe.

On my 99 23 &32 are fuel injector codes.

23- front
32 - rear



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Et=Engine temp... maybe.

On my 99 23 &32 are fuel injector codes.

23- front
32 - rear



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm just going by the info in the sticky, so maybe yours is correct? Dunno.
The engine does stumble once in a great while, just for an instant, like hitting the kill switch....hummm

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
23 = front injector open/low or high
32= rear injector open/low or high
41= CKP sensor intermittent or synch error

Straight out of the manual. Can’t tell if it’s the first part of explanation or the “or” part without a scan tool. Hope this helps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Baggerboy. I'm waiting on a manual, I thought that the codes in the sticky weren't making sense.
Anyone have any ideas where to start looking?
Would the procedures for checking the injectors and crank sensor be the same as the newer (as in '04) bikes? I do have the manual for my '04 Road Glide.

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
I would start with the crank sensor. Disconnect the plug and ohm the two pins coming from the sensor. Should be around 1k ohms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I would start with the crank sensor. Disconnect the plug and ohm the two pins coming from the sensor. Should be around 1k ohms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok, traced the harness from the CKP to it's connector behind the ECM and checked resistance between the pins. 1.2k ohms.

Manual says to check volts while cranking. Pulled ECM fuse and cranked, my DVOM is showing from 0 to 4.2VAC.

Put it back together and started it up. Ran for about 30 seconds and stalled, battery went dead trying to restart. Now on charger and waiting....

Update;
Got it started after charging the battery, checked charging system, checked OK.

Where to go from here? Manual still 3 days out...

So I'm looking around for loose, chewed on wiring and stuff and found a hose missing on the throttle body? Haven't been able to find the hose yet....


Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
Ok, traced the harness from the CKP to it's connector behind the ECM and checked resistance between the pins. 1.2k ohms.

Manual says to check volts while cranking. Pulled ECM fuse and cranked, my DVOM is showing from 0 to 4.2VAC.

Put it back together and started it up. Ran for about 30 seconds and stalled, battery went dead trying to restart. Now on charger and waiting....

Update;
Got it started after charging the battery, checked charging system, checked OK.

Where to go from here? Manual still 3 days out...


Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk


Is it still throwing the CKP code? Next step is to reset codes and try starting bike with a know good CKP sensor to see if it clears the problem. Also make sure you have performed the wiggle test to make sure you have ruled out intermittents. I have an ‘03 RK in shop right now with the same problem. Since I don’t have a known good sensor, I ordered on that will be in this afternoon. The CKP sensor can give all kinds of problems and sometimes not even send a code. Short of you having some wiring or ecm issues, I would say you have a bad CKP sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
Just seen the picture and updated post. That is a purge fitting for the California models. Unless you have one, there won’t be a hose connected to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Is it still throwing the CKP code? Next step is to reset codes and try starting bike with a know good CKP sensor to see if it clears the problem. Also make sure you have performed the wiggle test to make sure you have ruled out intermittents. I have an ‘03 RK in shop right now with the same problem. Since I don’t have a known good sensor, I ordered on that will be in this afternoon. The CKP sensor can give all kinds of problems and sometimes not even send a code. Short of you having some wiring or ecm issues, I would say you have a bad CKP sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dunno if it's still setting the code. Don't know how to clear them on this bike (02 RK). I did find out that it wasn't a missing hose. It was a missing vacuum plug. Fixed that! Seems to start quicker. Could that missing vacuum plug set those codes?

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
Dunno if it's still setting the code. Don't know how to clear them on this bike (02 RK). I did find out that it wasn't a missing hose. It was a missing vacuum plug. Fixed that! Seems to start quicker. Could that missing vacuum plug set those codes?

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk


You can’t clear them when you use the speedo to pull the codes. But if the codes are current the CEL will come on and stay on, you have to remove the test wire from the diagnostic port before cranking bike. That rubber plug shouldn’t cause the CKP sensor to be throwing any codes.


edited for spelling errors


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You can’t clear them when you use the speedo to pull the codes. But if the codes are current the CEL will come on and stay on, you have to remove the test wire from the diagnostic port before cranking bike. That rubber plug shouldn’t cause the CKP sensor to be throwing any codes.


edited for spelling errors


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, I removed the jumper right after I read the codes.
Just took it around the block for a check ride. CEL on at key on. Goes off after engine starts. 10 mile ride and no CEL, much less decell popping. I'm calling it fixed, unless of course it isn't...maybe there was a bad connection that got cleaned up by all the pulling and pushing?

I'll get back after I can run it a bit more.

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
Yeah, I removed the jumper right after I read the codes.
Just took it around the block for a check ride. CEL on at key on. Goes off after engine starts. 10 mile ride and no CEL, much less decell popping. I'm calling it fixed, unless of course it isn't...

I'll get back after I can run it a bit more.

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk


Good news. Hopefully you got it. I never would’ve thought that rubber plug would cause that. But hey learning every day. Just keep that ‘ol CKP sensor in the back of your head should it show itself again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Good news. Hopefully you got it. I never would’ve thought that rubber plug would cause that. But hey learning every day. Just keep that ‘ol CKP sensor in the back of your head should it show itself again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not convinced that the missing plug was the whole problem either, but time will tell. I also found a couple of spots on the horn wiring harness where mice had been chewing. Tank is full of fuel now so that'll have to wait till I get some burned off to check the harness underneath. What I can see by blocking up the rear looks ok.
Thanks for your assist, I owe you a beer if you ever get up this way!

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
I'm not convinced that the missing plug was the whole problem either, but time will tell. I also found a couple of spots on the horn wiring harness where mice had been chewing. Tank is full of fuel now so that'll have to wait till I get some burned off to check the harness underneath. What I can see by blocking up the rear looks ok.
Thanks for your assist, I owe you a beer if you ever get up this way!

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk


Mice can definitely do some damage! Thanks for the beer offer. Will definitely keep that one in mind!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
We'll, I was right about that...it ain't fixed. Started it this morning and the damn CEL came on again. On a brighter note, my service manual finally arrived.

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
500 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Just to update for anyone who might research this in the future.
It turns out that you can not clear the DTC's on these older bikes unless you have the HD computer scanner Gizmo, which I don't. After completing the repair the DTC becomes a " historic" code, which is identified by the CEL going off at startup, then coming back on for 8 seconds before turning off again. This occurs for the following 30 ignition cycles. Important piece of info there that I didn't have.

Anyway, to shorten a long story the problem turned out to be a broken wire. At the starter B+ post there is the battery cable and a smaller wire that feeds the main circuit breaker. That smaller wire was broken off of the terminal and making intermittent contact, which apparently threw the codes. Rode 150 miles Sunday with no issues

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
 

·
Retired citizen
Joined
·
22,273 Posts
Just to update for anyone who might research this in the future.
It turns out that you can not clear the DTC's on these older bikes unless you have the HD computer scanner Gizmo, which I don't. After completing the repair the DTC becomes a " historic" code, which is identified by the CEL going off at startup, then coming back on for 8 seconds before turning off again. This occurs for the following 30 ignition cycles. Important piece of info there that I didn't have.

Anyway, to shorten a long story the problem turned out to be a broken wire. At the starter B+ post there is the battery cable and a smaller wire that feeds the main circuit breaker. That smaller wire was broken off of the terminal and making intermittent contact, which apparently threw the codes. Rode 150 miles Sunday with no issues

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk
FYI that small wire is the B+ feed from the regulator.
 

·
South GA Redneck
Joined
·
3,895 Posts
Just to update for anyone who might research this in the future.
It turns out that you can not clear the DTC's on these older bikes unless you have the HD computer scanner Gizmo, which I don't. After completing the repair the DTC becomes a " historic" code, which is identified by the CEL going off at startup, then coming back on for 8 seconds before turning off again. This occurs for the following 30 ignition cycles. Important piece of info there that I didn't have.

Anyway, to shorten a long story the problem turned out to be a broken wire. At the starter B+ post there is the battery cable and a smaller wire that feeds the main circuit breaker. That smaller wire was broken off of the terminal and making intermittent contact, which apparently threw the codes. Rode 150 miles Sunday with no issues

Sent from my coal fired bag phone using Tapatalk


Good catch. And after having this issue a couple of times on bikes, it’s something I check pretty often now. It will definitely make you scratch your head trying to figure it out!!! IMHO that connector at the battery terminal gets abused during battery maintenance and is often times twisted while torquing battery connections. That can’t be good for it in the long run.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top