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Mr. James
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I like loud exhaust. I like the look of straight pipes. They are a lot cheaper than buying a complete exhaust system engineered to balance the exhaust flow and coupled with the right mufflers to maximize efficiency. I went down that rabbit hole. Got drag pipes. Then wrapped them. Then installed baffles.

I went back to the Screamin' Eagle exhaust that the bike came with. This video explains it better than I could.


That being said, drag pipes are not bad. If you are riding at wide open throttle, then you are getting power from those drag pipes that other people cannot get with a stock exhaust system. Since you are now doing the build, you can think it over. How much of your riding will be wide open throttle? If you are building this for the drag strip, then you have the right pipes. Everybody is a little different when it comes to how they ride.

 

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There have been drag pipes since the 50's and 60's-and they worked on the street and the strip. All the dyno results in the world dont always produce EXPERT RESULTS-talk to 5 people and you get 7 opinions-I put lollipop baffles in my pipes and an FP3 tuner to get rid of decel pop- gone ! and the sound is rite! And if most of your riding is around town? they work and if you like em ride em
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Me too Hotels etc so your good with schematics and meters,your way ahead of the game. I have enjoyed most of the work ive done on the bike, if you dont have a stand get one at Harbor Freight, youll need it.TC Bros make great front end kits for most bikes so look at them. Youll learn new stuff,get a SHOP MANUAL dont waste time and $ with anyone else. Its worth every penny you spend! you cant do this shit at the side of the road-stay with DUNLOP tires, I dont wanna read about you in the paper.;)
Very fluent with schematics and yes, meters are close friends lol. As far as the stand you mean like a jack stand, not a table, right? A table would be pointless. Sure, it helps raise the bike to working level but when you want to remove the tires you're just as screwed as if it was on the ground. I will try finding a shop manual, that is an absolute must. Helps to be able to put things back in the right place. I'll stick with Dunlop. Been inspecting the tires and don't see anything alarming at the moment. I will still probably look into getting a new set over the winter. Thanks for all the good advice!
 

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Very fluent with schematics and yes, meters are close friends lol. As far as the stand you mean like a jack stand, not a table, right? A table would be pointless. Sure, it helps raise the bike to working level but when you want to remove the tires you're just as screwed as if it was on the ground. I will try finding a shop manual, that is an absolute must. Helps to be able to put things back in the right place. I'll stick with Dunlop. Been inspecting the tires and don't see anything alarming at the moment. I will still probably look into getting a new set over the winter. Thanks for all the good advice!
Take a CLOSE look at the manufacture date on those tires! If over 5 years, they have lost their ability to flex and stick to the road. Even though they "look perfect" the compounds in the rubber has deteriorated over time! If that rubber has been mounted on the rims for 10 years... You won't believe the PIA level involved in just getting them off the rims! The rubber is THAT HARD! Safety FIRST, fun second!
Ride Safe, Have Fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The bike should be fine for a guy who is 6'. Sit on the bike. What level are the hand controls? My preference on that bike is for the controls to be at or about chest level, so that your wrist is just slightly below your shoulder, not higher than your shoulder. With that bike, I favor T-bars or drag bars on risers. Not for the look. But for control of the bike. The bike came with mid controls. Keep them. Do not swap them for forward controls. With the mid control foot pegs, and chest level handlebars, you will be able to stand up on the bike. You can't stand up on a bike with forward controls.

Clean out the carburetor. Install new rebuild parts as needed. Or simply install a new carburetor. You probably have the original air filter. Clean it or replace it. A lot of high flow options out there. Or just install a new intake. It looks like your dad has drag pipes. Drag pipes make the bike loud. Loud does not make it sound good, or run good. The bike actually sounds better and runs better with an exhaust system. The carbureted 883 is actually pretty good with an intake, exhaust, and jetting.
The carburetor is going to be taken apart and fully cleaned. I've thought about putting a slip-on over the drag pipes or just replacing them entirely. The air filter was filthy, she's getting replaced. As far as a new intake, I want to put something on that has higher flow. But before I make any modifications to the bike, Ol' Dirty Bastard (It's name given its state when I got the bike lol), I have to learn to ride it. This is my first motorcycle. Never ridden before. So I want to be comfortable on the bike knowing I'm not going to dump it before adding expensive mods and damaging them.
The hand controls feel like they could be a little higher for sure. I kind of wabted to put forward controls on so I can ride with my legs stretched a little more but keep a peg at the mid control position, but after looking further into it I'm not so sure that is even possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
you can put ape hangers or just about any bars you want, just get the right risers-I have 5" risers and 1" drag bars, you have to get ABOVE the tank! As far as your pipes go-they make "lollipop" baffles for drag pipes or you can make your own-I run them on my sporty, with a high flow AC plus FP3. You may find youll have to spend some $ to get it the way you want. The thing about skinny bikes like yours and the 1200 irons is you can do more substantive mods - for me ,less is more-it all depends on what you like.Take out a second mortgage on the house.
Haha! Yea everything adds up. $50 here, $250 there... I do like how versatile this bike is in being able to modify just about everything on it. Kind of like an android phone 😂 Harley 🤷🏻‍♂️ Android
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Brought a 03 Sporty back to life after being in storage for more than 10 years. The only deterroration issues we had were: Carb and vacuum lines, TIRES! and the fuel filter had eaten itself.
Tires turn hard as steel skate wheels with ZERO grip! If they're over 5 years old, REPLACE THEM!
Make sure run the bike BEFORE messing with the oil level.... EVERY TIME. If you add oil to a rested, cool sporty... It will PUKE it right back out! FWIW.

Nothing made of rubber ages well... All the advice listed above is GOOD! (y)(y)
Congratulations & Have fun with that new wife and the new mistress! Both will keep you busy for some time to come!
😂😂😂 Yes they most certainly will keep my busy!!!

Good advice on the oil level! I did drain it already though lol so can't start it with no oil. Once I put fresh oil in I will certainly keep that in mind! Don't want to have to clean that up everytime. I am looking at getting new Dunlops over the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The bike should be fine for a guy who is 6'. Sit on the bike. What level are the hand controls? My preference on that bike is for the controls to be at or about chest level, so that your wrist is just slightly below your shoulder, not higher than your shoulder. With that bike, I favor T-bars or drag bars on risers. Not for the look. But for control of the bike. The bike came with mid controls. Keep them. Do not swap them for forward controls. With the mid control foot pegs, and chest level handlebars, you will be able to stand up on the bike. You can't stand up on a bike with forward controls.

Clean out the carburetor. Install new rebuild parts as needed. Or simply install a new carburetor. You probably have the original air filter. Clean it or replace it. A lot of high flow options out there. Or just install a new intake. It looks like your dad has drag pipes. Drag pipes make the bike loud. Loud does not make it sound good, or run good. The bike actually sounds better and runs better with an exhaust system. The carbureted 883 is actually pretty good with an intake, exhaust, and jetting.
I take back what I said lol. I CAN leave the pegs in the middle to stand on and move the controls to the forward position. I'll have to test them both out (mid and forward) to see what I'm more comfortable with. Currently it has two forward pegs and mid controls. On the highway it won't matter because I won't be shifting. I can use the heel of my shoe to brake and shift as well so like I said, leaving the mid pegs where they are ill have to see where I like the controls the most.
 

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V-Twin Junkie
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There have been drag pipes since the 50's and 60's-and they worked on the street and the strip. All the dyno results in the world dont always produce EXPERT RESULTS-talk to 5 people and you get 7 opinions-I put lollipop baffles in my pipes and an FP3 tuner to get rid of decel pop- gone ! and the sound is rite! And if most of your riding is around town? they work and if you like em ride em
 

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Currently it has two forward pegs and mid controls.

The current setup is forward highway pegs. Those are actually raised, so that you can kick your feet up when riding. I took mine off. As I'm okay with not kicking my feet up. I like the mid control position in case I need to put my feet down on the road, or stand up on the pegs. I think that I sit straight up, and I can lean and control the bike better with my feet under my body. With my feet kicked out forward and raised, it seems to change my body position and balance.

From what I recall, you will need to remove those highway pegs if you install forward controls.
 

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Very fluent with schematics and yes, meters are close friends lol. As far as the stand you mean like a jack stand, not a table, right? A table would be pointless. Sure, it helps raise the bike to working level but when you want to remove the tires you're just as screwed as if it was on the ground. I will try finding a shop manual, that is an absolute must. Helps to be able to put things back in the right place. I'll stick with Dunlop. Been inspecting the tires and don't see anything alarming at the moment. I will still probably look into getting a new set over the winter. Thanks for all the good advice!
An inexpensive table stand that will raise the bike at the center,their like a scissors jack-I dont have a link sorry. The pipes? you run whatever you want, do some footwork and learn, Drag pipes have been run for years on the street without the doom and gloom. Dunlop -either 401 (stock) for HD or -as many do - 404-just a softer tire and less life, and a whole lot cheaper for a 883 nice, not for big bikes, and not if this is your primary MOT. The manual? first time you go looking for specs and you got sguat from Hines etc. Sure-ALL machines cost $ If you fix up a bike for you, kiss that $ bye-I didnt care I spent the $ anyway-its mine and reflects me-any fool can go to a dealer with a CC and buy a bike and some black clothes. Do the research(footwork) and build it rite and to suit you-
 

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I value your info but even this guy's advice is NOT carved in stone-in my research on these pipes I found more good than bad reviews. Like I said they've been using these pipes successfully since this guy was in diapers. These guys are schills for all these company's.
 

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V-Twin Junkie
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I value your info but even this guy's advice is NOT carved in stone-in my research on these pipes I found more good than bad reviews. Like I said they've been using these pipes successfully since this guy was in diapers. These guys are schills for all these company's.
So, if a firehose is available, why bother using a garden hose to water plants?
 

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V-Twin Junkie
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Reversion is real, and even lollipops only partly correct the issue. 2-1 or stepped pipes with crossovers yield much better overall performance and sound 100 times better.
 

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For the punchline, go to 10:40 and after.
Well -opinions are like a-------s everyones got one.I learned in life everyones an expert and has 'material'-And forums are like anything else-lots of BS, my own included. So I was polite enough, this bike belongs to this guy-not you or me or anyone else, and thats probably a good thing.
 

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sound 100 times better.

In cars, trucks, bikes....... exhaust note is created with an exhaust system. Open pipes are just loud. Louder than any exhaust system with resonators and mufflers. That's where people have different opinions. The science is what it is. Either you trust the science, or you don't. After countless hours of dyno runs, performance parts manufacturers offer what they believe is an efficient exhaust system, with a desirable exhaust note. If somebody believes that straight pipes are what they want, then that is what they will go with. I went down that road. I ran drag pipes. Then I wrapped the pipes. Then I installed baffles. Then I to went back to a full exhaust system. While I got what I wanted with noise, it sounds horrible. Just loud noise. And there was a noticeable difference in throttle response. Great at wide open throttle. Not so good for regular cruising.
 

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V-Twin Junkie
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Well -opinions are like a-------s everyones got one.I learned in life everyones an expert and has 'material'-And forums are like anything else-lots of BS, my own included. So I was polite enough, this bike belongs to this guy-not you or me or anyone else, and thats probably a good thing.
Something to bear in mind: Opinions are just opinions until data is used to support them. The data show that drag pipes are called drag pipes because of their intended use, but the joke is that drag pipes drag down power on the street, which they do. Like Bruce from S&S says, "if you're willing to sacrifice driveability and mid-range performance to have them, well, less power to you."
 
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