[edelbrock231]

Title says it. I can’t figure out why. It only had the code once. No more code but light still on. The rear brake bulb has been changed, no difference. I went with my dmm testing rear switch. Seems I’m getting just shy of 2 volts from it without being depressed. The thing is, when I unplug both leads from the pressure switch, ie no it’s open circuit. it still doesn’t turn off, so I thought front, ordered one. Took apart today and the switch has voltage when open and drops to 0 when depressed so it’s working correctly from what i gather. So now I’m at a loss. Signals work fine everything else is as well. 2012 flstfb fatboy 38k on clock

 

[SCHMIDTY]

Check that the front brake lever actuates the switch, don't use your finger. Those switches will still work if the tip of the switch is broken off. The switch tip breaks when someone removes the front brake clamp then reinstalls without shimming the brake lever avoiding the switch.

 

[edelbrock231]

Check that the front brake lever actuates the switch, don't use your finger. Those switches will still work if the tip of the switch is broken off. The switch tip breaks when someone removes the front brake clamp then reinstalls without shimming the brake lever avoiding the switch.

I took the front and stabbed the probes in it and regardless of voltage or and actually holding the micro switch in my hand the light remains on


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[SCHMIDTY]

Will the brake light go off if you unplug the wires from both switches at the same time. If not then there's a short to B+, a normally hot (B+) wire making contact with a bare spot on the brake light wire causing the light to remain on without the switch activated.