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Getting ready to do this on my 2011 Ultra Limited. I will likely go with the 30t from a 2011 Tri Glide. I want a couple hundred more RPM in 6th to make 6th more useable at 70 MPH. My final drive ratio should be 3.06.The brunt of this question is, I think I may be able to use my stock belt, but will probably be at the most rear adjustment. I'm OK with is as the belt has less than 10K miles on it and I'm not hard on the bike. Has anyone here done the 30T front swap and been able to use their OEM belt?
 

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I just did mine on a 2013 RG. I used a shorter belt. Not enough travel with the stock belt. You can use a grinder with a burr tool and lengthen the axle slot in the swing arm and use original belt. Your going to like the results of the 30T pulley.
 

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What belt did you use? How much slop was there with the original belt? Which belt did you get and how many teeth/cogs? LOL, yeah, a lot of questions. Getting prepared to do this. I was always under the impression you could use the same belt
 

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I'm trying to get an idea of what you guys are accomplishing with this mod to see if it's something I might want to do. What is the tooth count on the stock pulley?

I'm assuming you're going down in size since the talk is about the rear wheel moving backwards. This will also help the bike off the line, right?
 

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Read that for every tooth equals 1/4 inch in belt length. Down numerical on front sprocket will help out of hole but hurt top end speed.
 

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I believe stock is still 34 on the front?
 

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Just Ride
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32 on 09 and up
 

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What belt did you use? How much slop was there with the original belt? Which belt did you get and how many teeth/cogs? LOL, yeah, a lot of questions. Getting prepared to do this. I was always under the impression you could use the same belt
140T OEM belt was way to loose with adjustment all the way back. I got a belt from Belt Drive Ltd that was 139T. Part # BDL-SPC-139-1.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
140T OEM belt was way to loose with adjustment all the way back. I got a belt from Belt Drive Ltd that was 139T. Part # BDL-SPC-139-1.

I am curious by how much? I ask because I have seen some loose belts before that were fine, heck when I was on the road I needed a new rear tire, dealer put one on and had about 1/2"+of slop in either direction and was fine.
Keep an eye on the Falcon Belt, there are posts commenting on short belt life..
 

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I am curious by how much? I ask because I have seen some loose belts before that were fine, heck when I was on the road I needed a new rear tire, dealer put one on and had about 1/2"+of slop in either direction and was fine.
Keep an eye on the Falcon Belt, there are posts commenting on short belt life..
So loose that it would easily skip a tooth.
 

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I guess you know your speedo will be farther off than it is now as it is driven from the transmission output shaft, not from either wheel.
 

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I guess you know your speedo will be farther off than it is now as it is driven from the transmission output shaft, not from either wheel.

WOW, I did not know that. Good info, thanks
 

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I guess you know your speedo will be farther off than it is now as it is driven from the transmission output shaft, not from either wheel.
I was able to re calibrate with my Powervision. I also read where some folks couldn't activate their cruise control and also no 6 gear indicator light.
 

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I was able to re calibrate with my Powervision. I also read where some folks couldn't activate their cruise control and also no 6 gear indicator light.
The tuners that reset the pulses per mile tell the ECM the new count for the 6th gear light. Just using a speedo calibrator can correct the speedo but not update the engine rpm/speed ratio for the 6th gear light and for some reason that also kills the cruise. I changed my rear pulley and beat the system by using GPS to find my speedo error and then pulled the needle off the shaft and pushed it back on at 4 mph below the zero line. When I'm riding I almost never see it there so it doesn't bother me and it is within 1 mph of correct all the way up to 80, that's as fast as I could go where I checked after moving the needle. Changing only the needle position did not correct the odometer accumulating miles more quickly but doing the oil changes about 150 miles closer together doesn't bother me either.
 
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