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600 miles and have oil coming out the air filter 2022 fatboy

20K views 70 replies 25 participants last post by  Whizpering John 
#1 ·
Just wondering how concerned I should be about this. I understand how the breather system works. I also know that over filling oil or maintenence needs to the air filter can be issues.
But this is a new bike that I bought with 1 mile on it. At 650 now and the oil level is correct.

What can you guys tell me calling the dealer today.

Thanks
 
#3 ·
Just wondering how concerned I should be about this. I understand how the breather system works. I also know that over filling oil or maintenence needs to the air filter can be issues.
But this is a new bike that I bought with 1 mile on it. At 650 now and the oil level is correct.

What can you guys tell me calling the dealer today.

Thanks
When you say oil level is correct, that would be where on the dip stick? I keep mine half way now, before i was trying to keep it at the top and after running at higher RPM for a little while would spite some oil.
 
#5 ·
That's the reason I use an external breather system. That, to me, is too much blow-by for those miles on a new engine. Get to the dealer.
 
#6 ·
I would keep a pic catalog of that for reference. That filter doesn't appear to be pre-oiled and doesn't look saturated either.
I would give the engine some break in time and bring it to the service dept attention when you have it in for the 1k or 5k service.
 
#7 ·
Didn't think about that! I hope it was broke in properly. Yes, it does make a difference.
 
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#9 ·
That does seem a bit much for 600 miles. I wander if riding style has anything to do with why some bikes tend to blow more oil than others. I bought my current twin cam with 4K miles. That was the only bad thing the seller said about. Every ride he had to clean his air box and dealer told him it’s fine. I have had it for a year and another 5k miles never needed to clean it once. There some in it but it’s never just leaked out into the motor
 
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#11 ·
Ok so talked to the service department at the selling dealer. They advised to clean the mess and clean the filter. Or bring ot to them to clean. And the monitor to see how fast it comes back.

They mentioned that during the first 1k of engine break in that oil can get past the piston rings and we need to see if it continues and at what rate it leaks.

So I will clean today and see how dast it comes back.
 
#67 ·
Ok so talked to the service department at the selling dealer. They advised to clean the mess and clean the filter. Or bring ot to them to clean. And the monitor to see how fast it comes back.

They mentioned that during the first 1k of engine break in that oil can get past the piston rings and we need to see if it continues and at what rate it leaks.

So I will clean today and see how dast it comes back.
just like Cat equipment . and a gorgeous girl friend I have hade more than a hand full and really are they ever going to make a great motorcycle .
 
#13 ·
Every new bike I've owned I broke them in like I intended to ride them. I tried to break 'em in before they were out of warranty ! Mostly they all handled it just fine !
Remember the MoCo has to post those warnings all over the place because they don't know what crazzies are out there trying to break their new Harleys ! Which they do often IMO !
 
#14 ·
same here. I honestly never really care to much about any sort of break in. For years we built racing motors stuck them on the bikes and ripped them. Just an initial heat cycle or two make sure everything’s seated. There is a cool YouTube video where they take two identical motors. Built them as close to possible. Ran the piss out of one and slowly broke the other In. At tear down and oil analysis there the same. I’m like you. I just ride it how I’m gonna ride it and never had a issue
 
#15 ·
Engines that I have built, technically rebuilt, they are tight as hell and need to be broke in. In about 150 miles they loosen up quite a bit and you can set the carb they way it needs now. Now this was on older V8s not new engines. Maybe that is the difference? It's just a habit for me now to take it easy for a few hundred miles and then I can wring its neck.
 
#16 ·
I’m sure it’s never a bad idea to take it easy the first thousand or so mikes. I just built a motor for my 63 and experienced that. Got it running like a top in the shop. Around the first 800-100 miles I needed to go back and adjust the timing and carb to get it back to perfect so I’m sure it makes sense. And I know on ironheads the exhaust valve rods will tighten up every 500-800 miles. I guess it’s the cast iron they just keep seating more. And it’s always the exhaust side. I Hardly every have to adjust the intake least not as often.
 
#18 ·
Ok boys got the bike up to work at lunch checked the oil hot and what do you know it's way over full.

Here is a before and after pic I sucked it down with a vacume bleeder.

Cleaned the filter and we will update yall if it still leaks later.
 

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#21 ·
Ok boys got the bike up to work at lunch checked the oil hot and what do you know it's way over full.

Here is a before and after pic I sucked it down with a vacume bleeder.

Cleaned the filter and we will update yall if it still leaks later.
Did you charge that filter element after you cleaned it? I use K&N's clean/recharge combo package for mine & works well.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Harley came out with the high flow "paper" element filter around 05. It was used in the Screamin' eagle high flow air cleaners. They were dry filters. I remember them when I bought my 07 Road glide. I have always used oil type filters. A friend had one and it got holes burned in it when his engine backfired through the intake.

As far as break in. You need to load the engine. Make it pull. The cross hatch on the cylinder walls is a file of sorts. By loading the engine, it creates cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure pushes the rings out against the cylinder walls and files the rings to fit the shape of the cylinder bore. The better the rings fit, the better seal and less blow by you will have. You can load the engine without revving the crap out of it, but full throttle acceleration means more cylinder pressure. So, variable full throttle acceleration from 2500 rpm to 4500 rpm is about prefect.

Good luck, glad you got things figured out.
 
#38 ·
Just wondering how concerned I should be about this. I understand how the breather system works. I also know that over filling oil or maintenence needs to the air filter can be issues.
But this is a new bike that I bought with 1 mile on it. At 650 now and the oil level is correct.

What can you guys tell me calling the dealer today.

Thanks
I have a 2022 Fatboy with 800 miles on it so far, and just went and checked. I have no oil in the Air filter. I followed the manual procedures for engine break-in exactly as listed. First 50 miles not over 3k rpm, first 500 miles not over 3.5k rpms. Just FYI.
 
#39 ·
Ya looks like I was about 3/4 a quart over filled with oil.

Been about 200 miles since I fixed the oil level. No more oil in my filter.

I did not follow the book. But according to what you wrote I did roughly the same thing.
I babyed it for the 500 and still at 800 I have not beat on it or gone high rpm.

I will wait tell after the 1k service to get on it.

What color you get?
 
#42 ·
So it's been about 300 miles since I put the level at full when hot.

I see a drop of oil hanging off the bottom of the air filter housing and a small puddle on the case by the push rods.

Dropped it off at Harley yesterday fpr the 1k service and to check the oil in filter concerns.

The stated cleaned air filter and adjusted breather tubes. So they did nothing.

I asked how do they full the oil. Do they leave it half way when hot.

Advisor said they put it half way cold and it's good.

Well it was half way cold the first time I checked it and it was way over full hot.

The dealer is 34 minutes away. So when I get home with it the engine will be good and hot and I will check it then.

Bet it will be over again.

I need to read the Manuel on oil level checking procedures.
 
#43 · (Edited)
So it's been about 300 miles since I put the level at full when hot.

I see a drop of oil hanging off the bottom of the air filter housing and a small puddle on the case by the push rods.

Dropped it off at Harley yesterday fpr the 1k service and to check the oil in filter concerns.

The stated cleaned air filter and adjusted breather tubes. So they did nothing.

I asked how do they full the oil. Do they leave it half way when hot.

Advisor said they put it half way cold and it's good.

Well it was half way cold the first time I checked it and it was way over full hot.

The dealer is 34 minutes away. So when I get home with it the engine will be good and hot and I will check it then.

Bet it will be over again.

I need to read the Manuel on oil level checking procedures.
The way EPA forces H-D to vent those breathers back into the intake is a problem that's not going away. Check out the thread here titled "$12 Crankcase vent mod" to find your solution.
 
#45 ·
Well got back home with it 40 minute ride checked it hot on the jeffy stand and it is over and inch over the full mark.

Guess I will suck it down.

The owner manual indicates a cold and a hot level check. But hot says no more Tham full mark when on the stand.

Should I put it at the half way mark when hot several on here mentioned that?

And I did wipe it off and restick it all the way in.

Footwear Hood Automotive tire Asphalt Yellow
Road surface Asphalt Yellow Grey Floor
 
#47 ·
I keep mine at the full mark when hot when I do an oil change.
If it goes to the add mark or higher when I need to do the next oil change 5000 miles later, I call that good enough.
 
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#48 · (Edited)
I have a mechanic that kinda explained that it's part of emissions process and usually if you run your bikes at 65-75 mph, this is when you'll get some oil seeping (blowby) that will show up. He said for some reason HD haven't figured out a way to stop it, even though it's emissions related. This happens to both the wife's Sportster and my RK, of which both are '16's. If anyone has any better info on the subject...or get a HD guy to explain it here...that would help. Better yet, tell us how to stop it! (if at all possible). I would rather not tear into it as some You Tube mechs do...not that far in to it anyway. :unsure:
 
#51 ·
How much oil are we talking. I suggest removing the air filter and letting the bike idle while watching the vent hose over the intake to see if you see significant oil stream. If you see oil coming from the vent hose, it is too much, especially at an idle. Even oil overfilled shouldn’t produce significant oil from vent tube at idle, if it does, there are a few possible causes. There is an oil vent mechanism under the rocker cover that may be faulty, passing too much oil through the vent passage, but doubt it.I recently watched a YouTube video where a guy had this issue, pulled the rocker cover off the front cylinder, as the rear cylinder did not have the issue.He found a pressed in piece in the head had come out (looks like a small BB) and was causing the issue. May be something else, but if you do see significant oil from the vent tube at an idle, it is a problem. If you do some searches on you tube, the video should be easy to find.
 
#52 ·
External breather solves so many problems related to this. Plus you won't have oxygen depleted and oil misted air making it's way back in to the combustion chamber. Once I found the sweet spot on my oil dipstick I marked it with a small scratch across the holes so I don't have to count tiny holes anymore.
 
#53 ·
I found a much better solution than a catch can or vented dip stick or even routing tube to transmission top cover. Looked at the solutions people were going to and didn’t like some and others would cause other problems. Easy fix is to unplug hose from T that is inserted in the breather filter, leaving the hose installed to plug the hole on the back side of air filter, but install a rubber vacuum cap over the hose, leaving the hose installed. You don’t even need to remove the filter to do that. See attached pic and you will see the black shiny rubber cap.Then install the same diameter vacuum hose to the T where you unplugged the hose that goes through the back of the breather filter and route the hose down and loop it back up the back to the top of the breather housing. This allows the engine to breath and does not apply enough negative pressure to pull oil into the breather housing. I did this and mine stays dry now, no more oil being pulled into the intake, so no expected carbon build up or other performance negative impacts and i keep my oil at the full mark with no problem. That was NEVER the issue. The issue is with that hose centered in your intake, the negative pressure pulls oils through and dumps into the intake.
 

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#55 ·
Shouldn’t happen. I have lowered the hose to check and it hasn’t been an issue. That said, I would suspect a very small negative pressure given it is inside the breather case would pull any that make it in the hose and it would end up in the bottom of the breather case, but not much. By the way, I prefer that! Even if it does collect at the low point, I suspect it will push out from positive pressure coming from the engine as a by product of natural blow by. Keep in mind the intent is not to send the oil into the cylinder to end up as carbon build up…i decided to do the loop, but you might want to just cut the hose off at the bottom which would still accomplish the objective.
 
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