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Discussion Starter #1
I was riding today and had a recurrence of a "holy crap, what was that noise".
I stopped by a friends house, so he could hear the bike, it seemed to me it was being overly noisy, and I was not sure if it was me or something serious. We sat there with it idling, listening and revving it up a bit, he thought everything sounded normal to him, no rattling or clattering. He has been riding for years and had a 90 Evo in an Electraglide.

I had pulled out from his house, heading uphill, changed from first to second and rolled on the throttle, not hard, just normal. When there was a clattering sound, similar to the valves in the car clattering from cheap gas when you mash on the gas. Maybe because I was sitting on top of the engine, it scared the crap out of me. Visions of grenades going off in the engine flashed through my mind, rolled off the throttle and no more noise. That is probably the best description, only it was very sharp, metallic, and loud. It has happened before or at least something similar after sitting in traffic during our last heatwave and rolling up the onramp, and then onto the throttle. Any info/advice welcome. I am thinking its headed to a shop. :eek
 

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Rollers on 1 or more of the lifters.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Crap, I was thinking something in the valve train. Is this a DIY or a shop job? If its DIY, what brands should I be looking at HD or aftermarket? What else should be checked if I'm this deep? I assume replacing the entire set would be the ideal?

Is there a way to check to be sure, I know I'm grasping at straws here.
 

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You can DIY.

Good time for EZ adjust pushrods if you don't already have.
You'll also need a lifter block alignment pin.

These videos may help

 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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1991 was the last year for the old-style cam chest and oiling chamber. Make sure the keyway in your oil pump isn't sheered or sheered and now slipping. If it is, you'll loose oil psi and the tappets rattle. This is more likely if a roller failed and dropped some needles, as they get sucked into the oil pump and jam the gears, sheering the key.

Alighment screws for the lifter blocks are cheap.

I have a cam chest thread on here for cam preplacement in an evo.
 

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Riding With Respect
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Yes, replace all 4 plus make sure the cam is not damaged, bores in lifter blocks are still round and replace the inner cam bearing making sure it is a full compliment type.
BTW, '92 still had the bottom breather cam chest.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I take it nothing else makes that clattering sound? Anyway to check before teardown?
 

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There are other things that could make that sound.....

You don't want it to be those other things....... :nah



This is the easiest and cheapest one to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for those links, been watching and searching for more info, can't find anything that sounds like it.

I'm a why guy, is there something that causes the failure? Or is failure expected at around 25k?

It seems to be a toss up between S&S and Fueling as to replacement brand. If they all fail at around 25k, why spend the extra bucks? Not trying to cheap out, just trying to understand the price differences.
 

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High lift aggressive cams will make the lifters wear out sooner.

Also mis adjusted pushrods if you have them could also cause premature wear if far enough out of adjustment.

S&S and Fueling both make a good product.
 

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I just took apart my whole Top end on my 2011 Electra Glide Ultra Limited (FLHTK) with 33,000 miles because of chattering especially on cold starts. I found major carbon build up in the pistons and the valves. It's so bad some of the carbon looks fused or welded on pistons. I have Woods TW 8-6 cams - SE Stage one A/C - V&H Power Dual headers, (which had a crack before by the chamber) Monster Round slip-on's - SE Big Bore Pistons for Stock Heads and a Tuner. It did run good from Colorado to N.Y. about a 2,000 mile run.
I'm wondering if the aggressive cams and or the crack in the headers (under six speed) had something to do with the mess in my combustion chamber? Meanwhile good luck with your bike, hopefully pushrods and lifters will take care of it.
Peace!
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I just took apart my whole Top end on my 2011 Electra Glide Ultra Limited (FLHTK) with 33,000 miles because of chattering especially on cold starts. I found major carbon build up in the pistons and the valves. It's so bad some of the carbon looks fused or welded on pistons. I have Woods TW 8-6 cams - SE Stage one A/C - V&H Power Dual headers, (which had a crack before by the chamber) Monster Round slip-on's - SE Big Bore Pistons for Stock Heads and a Tuner. It did run good from Colorado to N.Y. about a 2,000 mile run.
I'm wondering if the aggressive cams and or the crack in the headers (under six speed) had something to do with the mess in my combustion chamber? Meanwhile good luck with your bike, hopefully pushrods and lifters will take care of it.
Peace!
Carbon buildup is common on TCs if run too rich. Don't forget they have piston "coolers" to keep piston temps down. Add too much fuel and carbon starts fast. Have seen this before.
 

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Plumbing the breather vents to the outside will cure that carbon build in most cases, and a little Sea-Foam occasionally will keep it clean.:)
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Stock engine, no mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looking online now (JP) at parts and gaskets, I'd rather do the job once, but prices are all over the place. Suggestions on brands to use or avoid? Thanks!
 

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Stock lifters are usually good for 60 k. (Speaking from experience). Also clean your oil screen, that will show you if roller bearings in lifters went bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyone know what size drag link socket fits the screen plug? Gotta go buy one.

Search reveals Super Dave sez 3/4" will work.
 
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