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98 Wide glide wheel bearing removal

11K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  bobmartin888 
On tapered bearing wheels if the OP doesn't have the experience he should take the wheel to a shop to have the work done.
When replacing the bearings and races the inner spacing needs to adjusted for the new bearing sets. That means having the correct spacer and shims.
 
Ask the people doing the powder coating. The wheel needs to be baked after powder coating and the bake can affect the races, the races could fall out ! Once the races are out they need to be replaced. Never re-use races and bearings, IMO.
Also never put a new bearing into a used race. It most likely won't last.
 
You only need to take the wheels to have them done. Take the axles too, they use the axles to torque the bearings to check end play and measure for shims etc.
 
The H-D service manual outlines the entire procedure. The manuals cost approx. $60.00, money well spent.
There might be a video on Facebook or Youtube too.
 
Just a warning, the tapered bearing end play adjustment is critical. If memory serves me the spec is .003" under torque with dry bearings.
Magnetic base dial indicator mounted to the brake rotor.
Do you even have the proper tools to do this job ?
 
If you've got a welder just run a bead around the inside of the race, it'll shrink and drop right out.
 
I'm all for anyone that's willing to go it on their own ... that's how I started !
BUT I started before the info internet ! Right now anyone that's willing to invest in a few specialty H-D tools can work on their own bikes ... within reason of course.
Once the investment gets to a point you have to put the specialty tools to work to pay them off.
Being professionally trained helps a little too !!! The "assembly line" experience helps also !
 
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