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Do you have to add oil between oil changes? Noticed mine was a little low so I topped it off. I'm about 2k miles into the current oil/filter.

It's a 2011 Dyna SG Custom...
 

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The newest and the older bikes will use some oil between changes.

I make it part of my routine to check cold oil level before I start out for the day.

Amazing, these modern bikes don't have the pool of oil under it or around the kickstand. My garage floor is clean where I park the bike.

In the old days with chain oilers pulling from the oil tank one seldom had to change oil as we were adding fresh oil weekly.
 

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My 2013 street glide with 19,000 miles took 1/2 quart at 3,200 miles from last oil change. I'm happy with that.
 

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My '13 RGC consistently uses 1/4 quart between oil changes done every 5,000 miles (Lucas syn. 50W). Never had a bike that used so little oil as this one.
 

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I change my oil/filter every 2,500 to 2,700 miles and have not ever added any. You should also check your oil with the engine HOT.... I know a lot of guys who get two completely different readings (me included) between a hot or cold oil check. Because it's a dry sump system, check it HOT.... Much more accurate. Run it a 8 or 10 miles and be sure it's up to full temp. Bring it home and park it and let it sit about 90 seconds to 2 minutes to let the bubbles disappear.... then check quickly.
 

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I change my oil/filter every 2,500 to 2,700 miles and have not ever added any. You should also check your oil with the engine HOT.... I know a lot of guys who get two completely different readings (me included) between a hot or cold oil check. Because it's a dry sump system, check it HOT.... Much more accurate. Run it a 8 or 10 miles and be sure it's up to full temp. Bring it home and park it and let it sit about 90 seconds to 2 minutes to let the bubbles disappear.... then check quickly.
Why would you change it so often. Syn oil will go 5000 miles and beyond, no problem. Just added cost.
 

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My '13 RGC consistently uses 1/4 quart between oil changes done every 5,000 miles (Lucas syn. 50W). Never had a bike that used so little oil as this one.
My bike is about here as well, change at 5k with Lucas. When I used other oils I would burn a quart in 5k.
 

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I change the oil about every 3500 miles and the bike does not use any between changes..............Use Amsoil 20/50 with about 52,000 miles on the odometer.
 

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Why would you change it so often. Syn oil will go 5000 miles and beyond, no problem. Just added cost.
I don't like running synthetic in an air cooled engine. The molecules in synthetic oil are much much smaller than in dinosaur oil and do not dissipate heat nearly as well. In a liquid cooled engine this is a moot point. A lot of guys swear by synthetic, I don't. Seen too many tests where on the same engine, run one then drain and run the other, oil temps have been as much as 90 degrees hotter with synthetic. I do my own oil changes so it cost me about 26 bucks for three quarts and the filter. Have never found a single metal particle ever in the old oil or on the drain plug. For me, it works. :)
 

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I always check mine at end of days riding HOT. Or check it during a long ride from home getting fuel. Mine uses about 1/4 of quart in 5k.
 

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I don't like running synthetic in an air cooled engine. The molecules in synthetic oil are much much smaller than in dinosaur oil and do not dissipate heat nearly as well. In a liquid cooled engine this is a moot point. A lot of guys swear by synthetic, I don't. Seen too many tests where on the same engine, run one then drain and run the other, oil temps have been as much as 90 degrees hotter with synthetic. I do my own oil changes so it cost me about 26 bucks for three quarts and the filter. Have never found a single metal particle ever in the old oil or on the drain plug. For me, it works. :)
Synthetic oil was designed for air cooled motors, starting with air cooled aircraft motors in WWII...

And the molecules in synthetic oil are not smaller than conventional oil. The molecules are more consistent in size than conventional oil.

www.lubetech.com said:
The only difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure. Synthetic oil has a very consistent molecule size which gives the oil very good and consistent properties. Mineral oil, being a product of nature, has lots of different sized molecules in its makeup. The advantage of synthetic is that it potentially has a more stable suite of properties that can be tailored to a wider range of applications.
http://www.lubetech.com/Uploads//Resource PDF/Synthetic_vs_Mineral_Oil_Resource_Page.pdf


I'd like to see those tests where synthetic oil runs 90° hotter than conventional.
 
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I've never had to add between changes.
 

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Seen too many tests where on the same engine, run one then drain and run the other, oil temps have been as much as 90 degrees hotter with synthetic.
You have a source to where one could look up those test results? I would be real interested to see where tests were done showing the syn oil ran 90 degrees hotter than conventional oil.

Not doubting what you say but I would like to see the results for myself.
 

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i run full synthetic moble 1 v twin 20-50 and i noticed it runs cooler that with dino oil . i also like it in the primary too. runs much cooler. i tried atf in the primary an it gave me a hot runner an just not happy with it. so ill stick with my moble 1 20-50.
now im in hot weather riding 100 + temps so i like a cooler running engine
 

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Why would you change it so often. Syn oil will go 5000 miles and beyond, no problem. Just added cost.
I change mine every 3K , Mobil 1 syn , simple principal really , oil is cheap motors aren't.

Harley motors are air / oil cooled , I just feel even syn oil takes a beating under those conditions , especially how it looks after 3K compared to fresh oil.

$52 - 3 qts oil , 1 qt primary oil, and a filter , considering what the bike cost this is cheap insurance.

Quality gear oil in the trans I run to 10K.
 

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Chevy has been putting it the Corvettes right off assembly line for some years now. That in itself tells you it must be better and does nothing to effect breaking in a new engine. Some of the super car builders Ferrari and others also put synthetics in. Im using Mobil 1 in engine. Belray in tranny & primary.
 

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I don't like running synthetic in an air cooled engine. The molecules in synthetic oil are much much smaller than in dinosaur oil and do not dissipate heat nearly as well. In a liquid cooled engine this is a moot point. A lot of guys swear by synthetic, I don't. Seen too many tests where on the same engine, run one then drain and run the other, oil temps have been as much as 90 degrees hotter with synthetic. I do my own oil changes so it cost me about 26 bucks for three quarts and the filter. Have never found a single metal particle ever in the old oil or on the drain plug. For me, it works. :)
I found that when I do a parade or escort the oil gets so hot that it breaks down. I used to have to change it after every event. Synthetic holds up to the heat.
 

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I found that when I do a parade or escort the oil gets so hot that it breaks down. I used to have to change it after every event. Synthetic holds up to the heat.
The guy you replied to hasnt been on here in 3 years, and this thread is 6 years old. I'm pretty sure he's made up his mind on what oil to use by now.
 
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