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Discussion Starter #1
I've developed an adjustable baffle that allows the rider to quickly adjust between an open, middle, and closed position. Please check out my website at Adjustable Exhaust Baffles | Cory's Custom Parts

The idea is that you can ride to an event (ride through, parade, poker run, etc...) with the baffle in the middle position (similar sound to baffles that came with my V&H exhaust), and when you get there you can reach down, flip the exhaust to open to make as much noise as possible. Then when you're ready to leave you can quickly reach down turn it back to the middle position, or maybe the closed position if it's late and you want to be even more quiet for the ride home.



 

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Hey Bro First I want to wish you luck in your venture but really, having to reach into a hot exhaust pipe to adjust that baffle!! I wouldn't.
 

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Turgid Member
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What about engine performance?
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I've developed an adjustable baffle that allows the rider to quickly adjust between an open, middle, and closed position.
You're reinventing the wheel. It's been done, in both manually adjustable, and automatically adjustable modes.

Google Yamaha's EXUP valve, which was also used by Honda later, called HTEV.

As well, Screamin Eagle had it on a few models in their own design, in which it was promptly removed.

Quiet Riot baffles is another form of this: Rocky Mountain Performance Quiet Riot Exhaust Baffles

The problem with this on an EFI bike is that you've got a pre-determined mapping for the ECU. By changing exhaust pulses during operation, you're going to be all over the place with your AFR. The ECU is not fast enough to do real world changes, which may result in a worse running bike, then a better one.
 

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Kicking Rocks...
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So wait... I need to carry gloves if I wanna adjust... Call me crazy, but I do must best to not grab hot exhaust pipes since the incident when I was three years old...

Good luck, but as said been done. Oh and 1db from half to closed is not really making a difference. JMHO.
 

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Actually, I am able to adjust mine without my gloves, I think the layer of soot acts as kind of an insulator. Of course I can't recommend that anyone else try that, that's why I demonstrated with gloves. For that matter, a lot of riders may have gloves on them or their bike a lot of the time.

As for performance, I would recommend that the rider install and setup their bike for the middle position. On the occasion where you want to make a little extra noise you can open up the baffle, and rev the crap out of it.

The general idea is that it's a better than the old school washer on a bolt method of modifying back pressure/sound.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Actually, I am able to adjust mine without my gloves, I think the layer of soot acts as kind of an insulator. Of course I can't recommend that anyone else try that, that's why I demonstrated with gloves. For that matter, a lot of riders may have gloves on them or their bike a lot of the time.

As for performance, I would recommend that the rider install and setup their bike for the middle position. On the occasion where you want to make a little extra noise you can open up the baffle, and rev the crap out of it.

The general idea is that it's a better than the old school washer on a bolt method of modifying back pressure/sound.
I agree in that it's more "formal", but without dyno testing to show that anything "Adjustable" is going to enhance performance and not decrease it is almost manditory.

As well.... any exhaust baffeling device has to be placed a certain amount back from the end of the tip of the pipe to get the best value of the pulse waves. This is based on exhuast velocity, pipe diamater, total pipe length and the configuration of the current exhaust. (Number of bends prior to the baffle) Big City Thunder suggests no less than 6" from the tip on 42", 1-3/4" diameter pipes, and has done dyno testing to show that it enhances low end (torque) vs at the tip, where in your case, it's easier to get.

Best performance is deeper in the pipe, to directly effect pulse waves and scavanging, and not only increase exhaust velocity, but to make the baffle effective, other then just creating backpressure.

As for the soot.....hardly the insulator. No rider wants to be walking around with dirty fingers (or a burn) after adjusting his pipes. You'd simply wait until it cooled, if there's no external adjustment method.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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I watched the videos. I have to question the extensive bluing on your rear pipe in the one video. Not the bluing at the head pipe, rather at the MUFFLER.

I see you adjusting them for each change, manually.

For the $62, I see it as an alternative for someone that wants adjustability.
 
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