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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The one thing I despised on my 2015 FLTRXS was the location of the rear brake pedal.

Starting in 2014 for some silly reason (probably because they changed vendors) all bikes with the touring frame have the rear brake pedal much higher and farther back than the one on my 2012 FLTRX or the 2013 models.

What that meant was not only was it awkward to really pick up my foot to apply the rear brake, but I quit using it except in low speed parking lot style maneuvers and began to rely on the reflex linked technology. That is a very bad habit to acquire, especially if you ride other bikes.

At this time, there is no after-market fix and Harley Davidson only offers methods to move it closer and even higher. I don’t think people are getting any shorter and I see a lot more tall guys and gals on touring frames than any other model.

The hardest part was deciding this was unacceptable and it had to be addressed.

So my quest begins.

First I ordered a rear brake pedal for a 2012 Touring model ($107.99) even though I realized at the time the part numbers were different. On arrival I discovered why, the mounting bore on 2014 - 2015 bikes was significantly larger.

Next I ordered bushings and O - Rings for a 2015 with the idea of having the brake pedal machined to fit those bushings. On arrival I decided too much material would need to be removed for me to be comfortable with the results. This step cost me just under $15.00 and can be completely eliminated.

I got to measuring the center to center bolt spread and couldn’t see why the engine mount cap from a 2012 Touring frame wouldn’t work on my 2015. So I ordered one of those ($55.99 which wasn’t too horribly bad and close to what machining costs would have run anyway), along with the O-Rings ($1.98) for a 2012.

With my parts assembled I settled down for the project. I was going to take pictures of the process but became involved and forgot about doing so.

I removed the board along with the mounting brackets.

Next grabbed the cotter pin retaining the brake lever clevis pin in place with a pair of pliers and pulled it out. It’s thin enough it comes out easy and while you might consider replacing it, I didn’t have one handy and didn’t see a reason to run get one.

Next I unbolted the cap nut on the rear brake lever and removed it from the bike.

Then I unbolted the rear master cylinder from the mount and let it lay loose, and removed the engine mount cap.

I had recently done the 1000 mile service on the bike so I knew the front engine mount was still at recommended torque. Even though it’s listed as a motor mount the purpose is to keep the rubber engine mount from moving out of place. I did not have to support the engine however I wouldn’t go starting it while this mounting cap was off.

I found the yoke for the clevis pin which attaches the pedal to the master cylinder is not as wide as the 2015 but not significantly so. A wedge or in my case a chisel along with several raps with a ball pin hammer solved that problem readily enough. You don’t have to spread it much and in my case it had no effect on hole alignment for the clevis pin, and it looked like I‘d never bothered with it.

The base of the clevis pin is slightly larger in diameter and since I had a newly chromed part I had to run a drill bit through the outside hole to remove the chrome inside to allow the clevis pin to seat.

Reassembly is simply the reverse of disassembly with the exception of installing the new O-rings and I used petroleum jelly as a lubricant. Stock I could see no indication of anything being used and I wanted something that wouldn’t be attacking the (plastic/fiber/whatever) bushings.

Problem solved, my rear brake pad is back to the position as my 2012 and the 2013's and I no longer have to take my heel off the boards to apply rear brake.
 

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Well done. There is usually a solution to a problem if a person takes the time to think it through *****or hit it with a REALLY big hammer.
 

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Slick solution. I ride an '08 Fat Boy, and my brake pedal seems to be in a comfortable position. When I test rode the '14 Road Glide I noticed that I almost could not get my boot out from under the brake pedal. Made me a little nervous.

So, there is a solution. Good to know.
 

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IMMORTAL UNDEAD
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Please post a picture of how it looks now after surgery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Before modification show room street glide.




After modification My bike



Basically if you sit on a 12-13 Touring (and actually I think earlier models too just haven't checked part numbers) and like where the rear brake pedal happens to be this is all I've done is change it to that mounting position.
 

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Before modification show room street glide.




After modification My bike



Basically if you sit on a 12-13 Touring (and actually I think earlier models too just haven't checked part numbers) and like where the rear brake pedal happens to be this is all I've done is change it to that mounting position.

Looks much more comfortable now. Nice explanation and pics.
 

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If you have a problem go to SOFTBRAKE web site they solved my problem with just a new pedal. It moved my FLHTK from 40 degrees to 20 degrees, moved it one inch out and one inch forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have a problem go to SOFTBRAKE web site they solved my problem with just a new pedal. It moved my FLHTK from 40 degrees to 20 degrees, moved it one inch out and one inch forward.
Got a pic?

I never heard of softbrake and couldn't find anything when I started searching for a solution.

If I could have figured out how to get them the three individual pieces used to make the pedal that you could weld yourself would have been a sweet solution. Then I'd have simply chromed or powder coated however I wanted.

Plus now that I've looked for softbrake specifically, I'd have never gotten past the untrusted site warnings if I had. Not saying it's a bad site just that it throws warnings :(
 

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FYI... Their security certificate expired 4 days ago. Hopefully they will get that fixed soon. It is safe if you aren't entering things like your credit card. It's probably safe anyway they just haven't paid a fee.
 
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