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COB
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Discussion Starter #1
Amsoil synthetic 20W-50 for my TC96 with 6000 miles.

Discuss....:popcorn
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #2
Amsoil has a good product.

I believe Independant testing still has Mobil-1 at the highest rating for any synthetic oil.

If you have a line on Amsoil, I'd use it. I would myself, but it's sold by independant delaers in my area, so I can't get it as easily as I fo, Mobil-1, or Royal Purple. Even my Redline products I order through JEGS....
I have a dealer that is about 1/4th the distance to the Harley Dealer. In fact I think it is a distributor actually.

Makes it easy for me.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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I'd like to see any credible testing that puts Mobile 1 above Amsoil.

Amsoil's claims are so brazen, their open invite to duplicate and disprove their results, anybody who could refute them ought to be making a very big splash, and I haven't heard of it.
 

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Señor Member
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2,384 Posts
I'd like to see any credible testing that puts Mobile 1 above Amsoil.

Amsoil's claims are so brazen, their open invite to duplicate and disprove their results, anybody who could refute them ought to be making a very big splash, and I haven't heard of it.
They are both good. That having been said, I use Mobil 1.
My reasoning: 1) I used to work for Mobil Oil Co. ::Dand 2) they don't sell Amsoil in Mexico.;)
Any good synthetic (of the correct rating and weight), proper oil change intervals and (dare I say it):soapbox an oil cooler is all you need.
 

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2007 Ultra Classic
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1,285 Posts
They are both good. That having been said, I use Mobil 1.
My reasoning: 1) I used to work for Mobil Oil Co. ::Dand 2) they don't sell Amsoil in Mexico.;)
Any good synthetic (of the correct rating and weight), proper oil change intervals and (dare I say it):soapbox an oil cooler is all you need.
Bingo!

Mobil 1 at Walmart in the one gallon container is one heck of a bargain.
 

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Just passing thru
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Funny, I just washed up after changing the VROD with some fresh Amsoil 20W-50. I use only the Amsoil or the Mobil V-Twin. For my application the Amsoil seems to win out. The Revolution motor has one hole as some of you know, when the oil is worn out shifting gets a bit chunkier. With fresh oil she shifts like glass. With the Amsoil she shifts smoother till the end of the 5000 mile oil life than the Mobil V-Twin. That and visually the Amsoil looks like it's still going at that mileage.

Either one is fine but I'm liking the Amsoil.
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #7
Is 6000 miles too early?
 

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Señor Member
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Is 6000 miles too early?
I dunno. At the risk of sticking my size 12 in my mouth.:foot
I try to change mine at 3,000 miles. 4,000 maximum.
I read on the internet (so you know it's gotta be true;)) that due to the operating characteristics of the air cooled V-twin, the oil should be changed at the same intervals whether it is synthetic or dyno.

Here I am, responding to oil threads and riding season isn't even over yet.
It's going to be a long winter.:D
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #9
I mean at 6000 miles. Is that too early? Max told me when I was changing at 1000 miles that he suggests I wait till I have some more miles before switching to synthetic, but I don't remember what he suggested.
 

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Just passing thru
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I mean at 6000 miles. Is that too early? Max told me when I was changing at 1000 miles that he suggests I wait till I have some more miles before switching to synthetic, but I don't remember what he suggested.

That gets back to engine break in. I've been using synthetic since 1000 miles with little or no oil consumption. Piston rings seated and cross hatching gone by 50 miles?

Dave any input on this?
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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I asked my aircraft mechanic son, who keeps reminding me that ALL jets and turbo-props run synthetics, what brand he's seen used when he knows cost is no factor, he didn't know, didn't remember seeing a brand, prolly oil for that purpose comes in drums.

He did note with interest that he had never seen any piston airpraft use synthetic oil, including multi-millon dollar ones. We can't imagine why.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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I'd bet money it'll be ok, maybe shorter change intervals.
 

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2007 Ultra Classic
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With good maintenance, any oil, syn or dino, will suffice.

Before I retired I ran a fleet of small vehicles at the hospital. Because of the high mileage we did a monthly PM on the vehicles which included an oil change. The vehicles averaged 6,500 + miles per month.

I would normally get 200,000 miles out of each one before replacing it. The highest mileage prize went to one that had 460,000 miles on it.

The vehicles?

Ford Escort.

My son drives one of the retired vehicles right now. It has 262,000 miles on it.
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #15
Ask your son a question if this is why?:

I do believe the reason is because the oil change intervals on planes is far shorter then cars/trucks/motorcycles and airplanes are also allowed leaded gas use, which is a natural top end lubricant and helps cool an engine on its own.
Airplane engines go through extreme heat cycles (I used to be a flight instructor, so I have at least a modicum of knowledge in this area). You have to be careful descending not to super-cool the engine and cause damage to the heads and cylinders. Maybe, and I haven't a clue as to why, this has something to do with it.
 

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COB
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Discussion Starter #16
Speaking of synthetics..... I was at this motorcyle shop and this guy came in from BelRay and did this demonstration. He had a fry pan that he heated with a torch. He then poured in some pure dino oil. It basically set in the middle of the pan and slowly burnt off. He then put synthetic in and it moved away from the heat. It never burnt off, but it left a noticeable dry spot in the middle of the pan. He then put in a Bel Ray (of course) synthetic/dino blend. It moved to the heat, and didn't burn off.

Anyone ever heard of anything like this??? Do you think it really matters or is it just one of those trick tests?
 

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Anybody using HD REGULAR dino oil in their TC 96 engine?
I've used synitic on my other bikes and found that I sell the bike within a few years anyway, so with my new 08 Ultra, I will just use the HD brand regular dino oil and change it 3,000-4,500 miles depending on what it looks like and if the registration is due. You should be checking your oil every once and a while anyway. If it looks bad, change it.
The only bike that come with synitic, I think, are the screaming eagles motors. And I herd from my firend that they burn some oil, so you have to check frequently.
 

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Speaking of synthetics..... I was at this motorcyle shop and this guy came in from BelRay and did this demonstration. He had a fry pan that he heated with a torch. He then poured in some pure dino oil. It basically set in the middle of the pan and slowly burnt off. He then put synthetic in and it moved away from the heat. It never burnt off, but it left a noticeable dry spot in the middle of the pan. He then put in a Bel Ray (of course) synthetic/dino blend. It moved to the heat, and didn't burn off.

Anyone ever heard of anything like this??? Do you think it really matters or is it just one of those trick tests?
Sounds like the best of both worlds, but a frying pan is not an engine, But if true, wouldn't you want the oil to go to the heated parts. I would.
 

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If Harley-Davidson,PORSHE, Caddilac,Aston Martin, and many other performance vehicle manufacterers put MOBIL-1 synthetic oil into their engines at the factory,then why even bother with dino oil.Funny thing is that harley only puts it into the screaming eagle 110 engines.
 

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there is an amazing write up of oil in fd3s.net the synthetic / conventional oil issue has been a long debated issue with rotary powered cars worth reading for those interested some good oil analysis comparisons done that are rather surprising as well.
 
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