Hey guys, I'm a new rider. Trying to learn and do as much maintenance on my own. This question has probably been asked but I could not find the answer. When I replace my spark plugs, should I use anti seize or not. My parts guy said no, but he said it probably would not hurt anything if I did. The reason I ask this is because there is rust on the exposed metal of my spark plugs. My bike is stored inside. Thanks
rustypipes
Depends on which one your Using alumiflake anti seize noooooo Copper flake ant seize yesssssss
Aluminum and Steel don't mix they will weld them selfs together over time and never ever get then apart ever
Many will argue this point but once you have ruined some thing from it you learn a expensive lesion in Life . Good luck on what ever you decide on Doing
Aluminum and Steel don't mix they will weld them selfs together over time and never ever get then apart ever
Many will argue this point but once you have ruined some thing from it you learn a expensive lesion in Life . Good luck on what ever you decide on Doing
Re: Anti-seize: copper or aluminum-based? Mixing OK?
The answer is yes and no. An anti seize is composed of a lubricant plus metal flakes. The flakes are there principally to avoid dissimilar metal reactions between the two mating surfaces. The choice between copper and aluminum is determined by the metals involved in the mating, plus by temperature. , and the anti seize function is still delivered by either metal for basically any metal ever encountered in cycling. If we had pure beryllium bikes mated with lithium bottom bracket shells, we might have an issue. But for ti, aluminum, and various steels, the type of flake isn't really all that important. Copper costs slightly more and is slightly more effective in preventing galling, which is a different phenomenon from dissimilar metal corrosion, which is why it's more commonly used in ti frames. In practice, this may be because the copper flakes are more durable and preserve some separation between the mating surfaces and allow that gap to contain some grease, which has nothing to do with chemical reactivity and is purely a mechanical matter. It's an issue that becomes relevant in high speed high temperature titanium applications such as aircraft engines, but not really in bikes. If you see both on the shelf, get the copper version. And I'd say that more because the aluminum seems to dry out a little faster, which leads us to the opposing issue in this discussion.
The other part of anti seize is the grease base used. Now there are lots of different kinds of grease used in copper anti seize, driven by high temperature needs, speed issues, and so on. You're more likely to run into incompatibility in the greases used. They can be natural, synthetic, and all kinds of things in between. Just because they are greases doesn't mean that they will mix and live hospitably together. So practically speaking, it's the grease in the anti seize that creates the biggest issue. And thus my recommendation would be to clean one out completely before using the other. And I'd say the same thing with regard to replacing copper anti seize with more copper anti seize. Unless they came from the same can, clean one out before introducing the other one. One might have a very different grease base from the next.
The answer is yes and no. An anti seize is composed of a lubricant plus metal flakes. The flakes are there principally to avoid dissimilar metal reactions between the two mating surfaces. The choice between copper and aluminum is determined by the metals involved in the mating, plus by temperature. , and the anti seize function is still delivered by either metal for basically any metal ever encountered in cycling. If we had pure beryllium bikes mated with lithium bottom bracket shells, we might have an issue. But for ti, aluminum, and various steels, the type of flake isn't really all that important. Copper costs slightly more and is slightly more effective in preventing galling, which is a different phenomenon from dissimilar metal corrosion, which is why it's more commonly used in ti frames. In practice, this may be because the copper flakes are more durable and preserve some separation between the mating surfaces and allow that gap to contain some grease, which has nothing to do with chemical reactivity and is purely a mechanical matter. It's an issue that becomes relevant in high speed high temperature titanium applications such as aircraft engines, but not really in bikes. If you see both on the shelf, get the copper version. And I'd say that more because the aluminum seems to dry out a little faster, which leads us to the opposing issue in this discussion.
The other part of anti seize is the grease base used. Now there are lots of different kinds of grease used in copper anti seize, driven by high temperature needs, speed issues, and so on. You're more likely to run into incompatibility in the greases used. They can be natural, synthetic, and all kinds of things in between. Just because they are greases doesn't mean that they will mix and live hospitably together. So practically speaking, it's the grease in the anti seize that creates the biggest issue. And thus my recommendation would be to clean one out completely before using the other. And I'd say the same thing with regard to replacing copper anti seize with more copper anti seize. Unless they came from the same can, clean one out before introducing the other one. One might have a very different grease base from the next.
Tell us what you are working on...
The spark plug manufacturer will probably say not to use it, but...
The service manual for your bike is the final word...
The spark plug manufacturer will probably say not to use it, but...
The service manual for your bike is the final word...
When putting spark plugs in an aluminum head always lubricate the threads. Use either anti seize or a drop of motor oil. Just never dry.
If you use anti seize on the spark plugs in an aluminum Ford 4.6 engine, you will become familiar with the sound the spark plug makes when it hits the underside of the hood...
Don`t make assumptions, follow the engine manufacturers service manual.
Don`t make assumptions, follow the engine manufacturers service manual.
I found my Diploma from 1977 last year but don't ask me were it is today...I also ran across a condom in the Same box Humm :eek-surprise
She must have been special if you saved the condom you hammered her with!!!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
The scars we have to carry as men. It is our burden!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Seriously my 2014 touring service manual says " Apply ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the spark plug threads. Tighten to 12-18 ft-lbs (16.3-24.4 Nm ) "
A boy once asked his father why condoms were sold in packages of three, six, and 12. The father answered: "Three-packs are for high school kids - once on Friday, once on Saturday, and once on Sunday. Six packs are for college students - twice on Friday, twice on Saturday, and twice on Sunday." "But what about 12 packs?", the boy asked. The father replied: "12 packs are for married couples . . . once in January, once in February, once in March . . . ".
Remember my friends, a used rubber might still be good, but nobody likes to f--k with them.:grin
I always do on new plugs and when checking plugs at a tuneup. Reason ... I've had a few that stripped the threads outta the heads and that creates a lot of extra unforeseen labor !
Since my last look at new OEM plugs being removed at the first service the MoCo still anti seizes the spark plug threads, just sayin' !
Copper anti-seize only on spark plugs. The silver will weaken the aluminum and eventually cause the threads to rip out.
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