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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, have the leaky fuel check valve tried to replace O Rings, gave up
on that idea, so replacing the check valve
Bike is a 2015 FLHTP Electra Glide

PROBLEM IS...no videos on the NEWER rushmore 2014 up that have the Delphi
units with a connector at the fuel pump (see part below)
so I need to know
A. How do these disconnect at fuel pump?
B. How to get fuel pump out properly or is it even necessary to pull completely out?
C. Tips and/or video of this NEWER check valve replacement I've seen plenty of the others that use the cut and clamp but this isn;t one of them
Has anyone replaced a check valve like this?
A little help would be appreciated before I go in there not completely sure of what to do
Thanks in Advance!
Tool Sword Titanium Metal Event
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Schmidty; Thanks. Will I have to pull pump all the way out or can I get to the line w/o doing that? have you replaced a newer one like this?
That MC300 O Ring replacement kit is garbage...spent 3 hrs trying to replace that lower O ring and no luck couldnt get the replacement to seat properly and thought I got all of the old O Ring out...100 bucks wasted. The entire new assembly was only 39 bucks I think that's the only way to go
 
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To install the new check valve with hose you'll need to get all the fuel removed from the tank first. Any number of ways to do that, the simplest is to syphon it out with a hose into a fuel can.
Then I reach into the tank with an extended reach 45° angle needle nose pliers to pinch the tabs on the fuel line from the pump to the check valve line and separate the hose from the pump.
Then you can unscrew the old check valve from the tank and begin the reassembly process with the new check valve assy..
The trick is to NOT overwork this repair ! The MoCo made the in tank fuel line repair easier than the previous in tank line replacements. Now plug N play v/s previous cut and splice procedures !
Also now only 1 tank check valve, previous were 2 tank check valves depending on the EFI system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To install the new check valve with hose you'll need to get all the fuel removed from the tank first. Any number of ways to do that, the simplest is to syphon it out with a hose into a fuel can.
Then I reach into the tank with an extended reach 45° angle needle nose pliers to pinch the tabs on the fuel line from the pump to the check valve line and separate the hose from the pump.
Then you can unscrew the old check valve from the tank and begin the reassembly process with the new check valve assy..
The trick is to NOT overwork this repair ! The MoCo made the in tank fuel line repair easier than the previous in tank line replacements. Now plug N play v/s previous cut and splice procedures !
Also now only 1 tank check valve, previous were 2 tank check valves depending on the EFI system.
THIS model DOES NOT HAVE CLAMPS...just depress the 2 tabs on each side and unplug LOOK AT THE VIDEO BELOW...is it the right side line that gets exposed when pulling out the gas fill thing?

(614) How To Replace A Harley Davidson Fuel Pump - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Then I reach into the tank with an extended reach 45° angle needle nose pliers to pinch the tabs on the fuel line from the pump to the check valve line and separate the hose from the pump.

I am now completely lost...reach into the tank...WHERE...dont you have to remove the chrome dash? I need someone to explain this to me


Guess what I'm unclear on is where does this plug in? Does the line go directly into the fuel pump OR the fuel lines on top you see when you take dash off and pull the gas cap enclosure out? Those I can get to I sure dont want to take that pump out
 

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Did you remove the tank lock ring and top plate yet ? The top plate has the filter and regulator shell attached to it. This might be a good time to replace the filter and regulator as long as you're in there.
If you remove the top plate you'll be able to follow the check valve hose to it's connection fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No not yet but I DID order a pr of 11" 45 degree needle nosed pliers as per your
advice of how to unplug connector...now is that connector coming off the fuel pump itself or off the pressure valve under the top plate? When I get the top plate off I SHOULD be able to see that line coming up to it from the quick release, not? Thanks so much so far I will take it SLOWLY and get the job done with your advice
 
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With the top plate off you'll be able to trace the check valve hose to it's connection point.
You need to apply downward pressure on that lock ring to release it from the top plate, special H-D tool but it can be done sans the tool.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
They were saying use a blunt tip and a hammer and go counter clockwise but can I do it by hand putting downwatd pressure and just turning? I will try today if I get time
 

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They were saying use a blunt tip and a hammer and go counter clockwise but can I do it by hand putting downward pressure and just turning? I will try today if I get time
I use a hard wood block and medium ball peen hammer for the lock ring. That ring is cammed so I hit the block with a downward motion. Protect the tank paint before going at that lock ring IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK got top plate off I THINK that fuel line plugs into the pressure regulator...the largest of the 2 valves...no need for needle nosed pliers I can reach that plug in easily. IS THAT WHAT YOU FOUND ON YOUR REPLACEMENT? I'll take bad fuel valve off after partially opening and draining rest of gas from the very bottom (if any)
NOW...that fuel line runs UNDER a yellow wire then goes to the check valve...did you notice that with yours? Does it matter whether the new line runs under that wire or no? With your answers to these last questions I can finish the job, much appreciated.
 

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OK got top plate off I THINK that fuel line plugs into the pressure regulator...the largest of the 2 valves...no need for needle nosed pliers I can reach that plug in easily. IS THAT WHAT YOU FOUND ON YOUR REPLACEMENT? I'll take bad fuel valve off after partially opening and draining rest of gas from the very bottom (if any)
NOW...that fuel line runs UNDER a yellow wire then goes to the check valve...did you notice that with yours? Does it matter whether the new line runs under that wire or no? With your answers to these last questions I can finish the job, much appreciated.
Sorry but I don't remember that yellow wire. I would route things the same as you find them to avoid mistakes.
I use the needle nose pliers because pinching the lock tabs is hard for me, arthritis !
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That yellow wire is SNUG between the ribs...I may have to take to a dealer unless I find out what to do...to loosen that wire I'll have to pull the whole float assembly and possibly the fuel pump. can you remember if that fuel line even connects to the pressure regulator or where? There's no tracing it down to valve not enough room I think I need a mechanic
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
GOT IT! My bad...had wrong fuel line thought it was the bigger diameter one...NOT...managed to trace the fuel valve line straight up to smaller diameter pressure regulator tit...PULLED RIGHT OUT NEW ONE RAN RIGHT UP TO IT..
I overworked it like you said not to do...next time will be simple MUCH shorter than dealing with old o rings and the line is only 39 bucks...I'm gonna do some ridin today!
 
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