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Discussion Starter #1
My friends EVO has a little leak, its sweating at the basegasket on the rear cyl. So we are going to try and retorque the headbolts. I'm looking for opinions on this as I don't think it is gonna help much.
Thanks Thure
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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My friends EVO has a little leak, its sweating at the basegasket on the rear cyl. So we are going to try and retorque the headbolts. I'm looking for opinions on this as I don't think it is gonna help much.
Thanks Thure

Retorquing the headbolts isn't going to do anything for the base gaskets.....not now at least....

The base gasket has failed and/or the cylinder base is warped. The bases need to be checked when off (.006" max) and remilled. James silicone gaskets are a good replacement. (JPCycles carries them.)

There was a product that some guys were using, by 3M, that is for sealing windshields. It' applied and it gets drawn in, where the gasket leaks. It's just a bandaid though.

The 1340 Evos are tempermental, in that not warming them up enough and riding them moderately hard can cause premature base and head gasket failures.
 

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jUST CHANGED MINE, i APPLIED THE HAYDEN OIL FIX, AND USED COMETIC BASE GASKETS AND HEAD GASKETS.

FOR God's sake do not torque the headbolts!!! they are set at a certain lbs for a reason, changing this can be very detrimental.

when you take the cylinders off find your local metal shop and have them check your cylinders for micro-cracks and warpage. plan on some unforseen costs. If you go this far plan on a set of rings from hastings, then you also will need your pistons checked with your cylinders. wiseco has a complete set, as you can tell I just went through this process. I know my bike now inside and out. The hayden oil dowel fix will fix the base gasket forever, but just be prepared for unexpected costs.
Must have a very good torque wrench!!!

hayden dowel fix - 35.00
wiseco pistons & rings-129.00
Cometic gasket kit - 45.00
Cylinders 350?
cylinder honing and piston verification 45.00
I have never done this before and I really learned my bike
Time 8 hours 2 buddies and some cool drinks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your advice, decided to let oil leak be oil leak for now. Dave if you happen by the name of that 3m product think we are gonna try that.
Thure
 

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I break stuff.
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I had this problem on my '93. There was a recall - and after I had the base gasket replaced I had no further problems.
 

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I used the manual and replaced them myself. It'll take you the better part of a whole Saturday if you take your time.
 

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Blow In Place
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I have this same problem, This is my first bike and I love it but tired of leaving my oil mark every where I go. Mine is leaking from the front only and I am for now only going to replace that one. Could anyone help me out a little and give me a list of tool that would be required for this job? I don't want to start it until I have everything I need to finish it.
 

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hey here is an idea

just ride it.take a paper towel and wipe it once a month.so it seeps,so what.been riding 45 years every thing fron a 1951 pan to a 2003 flhtcui.at some point they ALL leak.just ride it,enjoy it. just my .02cents FLAME SUIT IS ON as if i care:nod
 

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Blow In Place
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just ride it.take a paper towel and wipe it once a month.so it seeps,so what.been riding 45 years every thing fron a 1951 pan to a 2003 flhtcui.at some point they ALL leak.just ride it,enjoy it. just my .02cents FLAME SUIT IS ON as if i care:nod
Thats what I've been doing for a bit but now it seems that I have to take brake cleaner to the engine once a week and I get oil that blows back on my exhaust and it just looks horrible. I would like to get it mostly fixes so that I didn't have to clean so much oil off my bike. I don't mind leaving my mark where ever I go just hate having burnt oil on my chrome.
 

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I have this same problem, This is my first bike and I love it but tired of leaving my oil mark every where I go. Mine is leaking from the front only and I am for now only going to replace that one. Could anyone help me out a little and give me a list of tool that would be required for this job? I don't want to start it until I have everything I need to finish it.


The most important tool you're going to need for that job is the factory service manual .
 

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Blow In Place
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[/B]

The most important tool you're going to need for that job is the factory service manual .
Yup got that on the way, I have a good Craftsman torque wrench and some other basic tools. I have never torn down a bike engine and it has been a while since I've torn down a V8 and have none of the special tools that I used when I did that. Mostly just looking for a list of special tools that I might need so I don't get the head pulled off and have to make an hour drive (1 way) to town to get a tool I need to do my next step. Will the Service manual have a break down of special tools needed for a job?
 

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That info is in the manual . From your first post it sounds like you're just replacing the rocker cover gaskets which is no big deal , basic hand tools plus the torque wrench . I would recommend doing both front and rear cylinders while you're at it though .
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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The only "special" tools I can think of is a ring compressor that can be removed by opening it. Regular ones open, but you'll have the jugs over the pistons.

If you're replacing the rings, you'll need to check ring-gap, and a ring grinder is a good tool to have to do that, and not screw them up. A cutting wheel (ubber thin) on a die grinder will work in a pinch, but make sure to grind the ring straight and true.

Make sure your head studs are tight in the block.

Good torque wrench. (You have already)

The rest is:

Tear down.

Replace base gaskets.

Install jugs.

Install heads.

Install pushrods. (keep them in order. They're color coded for each placement.)

Longest one in the front exhaust, second longest one in the rear exhaust, and the 2 shorter ones goe in the middle for the intakes.

Install rocker arm shafts.

Install rocker boxes.

Install intake with new intake seals.

Install carb.

Put all other crap on.
 

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Okay I see , base gasket thread .
This is what I do and they never leak afterwards . Use the OEM base gaskets and cut the corners like shown in these two pics . Those corner cuts allow the pressure that builds up in the cylinder stud holes to vent .
There's a white paper out there on this procedure , just don't ask me where it is cause I lost track of it !
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Schmidty......can you slip that gasket over the studs, under the piston and jugs and never take the cylinder completely off, exposing the rings, and having to re-install the rings into the cylinders?
 

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Schmidty......can you slip that gasket over the studs, under the piston and jugs and never take the cylinder completely off, exposing the rings, and having to re-install the rings into the cylinders?
Ha Ha Ha , good one Dave ... how do ya figure to get it around the con rod ? HeHeHe !
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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McGyver could do it ! ! !
 

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Blow In Place
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That info is in the manual . From your first post it sounds like you're just replacing the rocker cover gaskets which is no big deal , basic hand tools plus the torque wrench . I would recommend doing both front and rear cylinders while you're at it though .
no no Front piston base gasket is what I am working on... I will replace the rocker gaskets and all others that I am taking off because I'll have it apart.
 

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Blow In Place
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The only "special" tools I can think of is a ring compressor that can be removed by opening it. Regular ones open, but you'll have the jugs over the pistons.

If you're replacing the rings, you'll need to check ring-gap, and a ring grinder is a good tool to have to do that, and not screw them up. A cutting wheel (ubber thin) on a die grinder will work in a pinch, but make sure to grind the ring straight and true.

Make sure your head studs are tight in the block.

Good torque wrench. (You have already)

The rest is:

Tear down.

Replace base gaskets.

Install jugs.

Install heads.

Install pushrods. (keep them in order. They're color coded for each placement.)

Longest one in the front exhaust, second longest one in the rear exhaust, and the 2 shorter ones goe in the middle for the intakes.

Install rocker arm shafts.

Install rocker boxes.

Install intake with new intake seals.

Install carb.

Put all other crap on.
Hey thanks! My plan is to take pictures of every step that way when I mess up I can upload my pics and ask for help :know
 
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