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Discussion Starter #1
Battery kept dying after a few days of sitting. I replaced battery. Same problem. Runs fine on a jump start but leave it sit a bit and dead. I put an ammeter between the battery and the leads and came out with 109 milli amp draw which I looked up and the norm should be about 25. I started unplugging fuses to isolate which system is causing the draw and the only pulled fuse that brought me back to normal (24.4) was the battery fuse. At this point I'm stuck with what to do next.
 

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Just Ride
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Is your speedo light staying on? Neighbours bike doing that and found pinched together wires back under battery tray.

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't think it's speedo light cause unplugging instrument or lighting fuses does not bring the draw rate back to normal. I'm thinking it has to be in the battery system but I do not know what all that entails
 

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Unplug the regulator and see what the draw is. If it goes back to normal a diode is bad and the battery is draining with the ignition off. There's no fuse or breaker in the charge system.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Regulator off still drawing power unplugged ignition still drawing power, it has to be one of the battery system components or connections but I'm not finding where
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any ideas as to what the resistance should be between the battery maxi fuse and the battery fuse in the fuse block.
 

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Retired citizen
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OK ... start unplugging every electrical connection on the bike until the ma. draw at the battery negative connection measures less than .12ma. ! Then start re-connecting everything until you find the big ma. draw ... that'll be it !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
07 fxst. Only time amps drop back to normal is when isolating the battery, to fuse, to ignition circuit.
 

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If you have the schematic, look to see what isn't fused by the fuses. Maybe the alarm system, if present. It's not magically dis-charging the battery, something is still connected with the fuses removed. The schematic will show what it is.
 

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Retired citizen
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Does the bike have a security system ???
The security system will produce an unusually high ma draw for about 2 minutes every time the ignition is cycled or the battery cables are removed and installed, or the maxi-fuse is plugged in and out.
Also make sure the battery ground cable is tight at the rear starter bolt.
And inspect the wire harness that passes over the top of the trans, it can abrade from the rough case housing.
I'm running out of ideas ! ... :think
 

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What year and model bike is causing those issues? I have owned Harleys since 2005, I never changed out the factory battery, until I got my 15 Ultra Limited Low, which killed the original battery, actually burned up a cell, trying to keep a tender on it. I never kept the other bikes on tenders, but this bike needed to be on a tender, or otherwise it was dead battery. Bike was kept in a shed on wood flooring, on a plastic kickstand puck, and still had those issues. I bought a Harley battery tender and tried to keep the bike charged, but no luck. I traded that bike in for a 17 Street Glide. That bike didn't last me 2 weeks without killing the battery, and again, dead. I put this battery on a charger, and it is telling me that there is a bad cell in it. It will not charge on a tender, either. Whatever the draw is, is pulling faster than a tender can keep up with. What's been changed in the electrical system, that's causing these issues?
 
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